TV Help....

eredinger · 05-31-2011, 02:51 PM

So we took out our new 26BH this weekend for the first time. We had a mix of weather from mid 60's to snow. Still we had a great time in the trailer. Everything worked the first time and we had a great experience. Too bad I can't say the same thing for the trip there and back. Here are my issues:

1. Rear bob from the suspension. Wow...with the FW tank full and the gear loaded it seems like the back end was so squishy and bounced with every bump. We never hit the bump stops though.

2 The return home was not as bad but with the wind the truck seems to be driving on marbles. I would say a pucker factor of 8 (on a scale of 1-10). The trailer was blown from around even with the anti sway control on.

Here are a few things I would think I could do to help the issue:

1.) buy a 3/4 truck (not really an option at this point)
2.) New Shocks. Truck has 50k miles and stock shocks.
3.) Buy new tires. The one on there now are not LT rated to handle the load. This might be the side to side sway I feel from the truck.
4.) add an air bag or something similar to the truck to help the rear end from bouncing.

The trailer was loaded evenly and a max of 500lbs in gear. I made the wife pack light for the first trip.

Can anyone make a suggestion on which to try first?

TV listed in Sig.

Spike99 · 05-31-2011, 03:08 PM

To reduce up/down movement, properly sized WD bars is a great thing. Some folks size their WD bars on empty loading. To properly size a TT's WD bars, always use "loaded" trailer and the trailer's tonque is scale weighted (not using "guessed" weight).

Using LT tires (instead of "P" - passenger) tires on the Tow Vehicle is a good thing as well. And, ensure the air pressure is checked as well. Some tires can have 10 lbs difference between cold and hot days.

Having a properly balanced TT is a good thing as well. Many say that 13% balance of front and rear weighting is a good thing. In reality, some trailers pull better at 12% and some trailers pull better at 15%.

When leaving GC sites (when we did pull), I always dumped out all tanks. And if used, I would dump our fresh water tank as well. Thus, ensuring all tanks were empty. Pulling home with liquid in any tank would screw up trailer's weight balance.

Hope these ideas help as well...

.

redeyes · 05-31-2011, 03:17 PM

Sometimes on short trips to get my trailer out of storage I don't use the WD bars. I get the bobbing and weaving you describe. With the bars hooked up properly, it tows much better and feels more solid. I agree with the above poster about the bars.

eredinger · 05-31-2011, 03:19 PM

So my WD is 1000,10000 for a trailer with a GVW of 7,500lbs. That should be the right one.

Would LT tires reduce the side to side squishy rolling feeling?

Terry · 05-31-2011, 03:29 PM

As other have said - I would check that hitch setup - sounds like it may not be right (height, spring tightness, sway bar,etc). When you load up the trailer, check your rear end - is the truck dropping down so far it is touching the rubber stops on the suspension?

I have a 26BH that is more heavily loaded than yours and I have a slightly less powerful truck. I also carry firewood in my truck and my ride is nice and smooth. I have a basic round bar WD hitch and a friction sway and even with 18 wheelers passing me on a two lane road I get virtually no sway.

The only time I have had an issue is when I put a little too much firewood in the bed and was riding too heavy. When large trucks would pass me on a two lane interstate, it would suck me in a little and I would have to compensate. After I used the wood, no problems.

The 26BH is one of the lighters models out there since it has no slides. It should tow very nicely behind most 1/4 ton pickups. I have LT tires, and I may be wrong, but I dont think it would cause that bad of a ride - but one of our other more knowledgeable members will have to answer on that one.

eredinger · 05-31-2011, 03:48 PM

So when hooked up the truck does sit a bit down in the rear...but almost not even noticeable. One thing I do notice is the trailer nose is down. I am using an adjustable ball mount with the WD bars. Could this be too low and cause the TT to have the weight shift forward and push the rear end of the truck down?

The only other thing I can think of is I'm putting the WD chains on at the wrong time. I put them on with no weight on the hitch, then lower the trailer fully.

**Crabman** · 05-31-2011, 04:08 PM

WD hitch may need adjusting. Your trailer should be level or only slightly nose down. You can come up one hole in your shank to raise the trailer. You may need to adjust the hitch head to give more WD if needed by increasing angle on the ball.

Stock shocks are not very good, a good set of Bilsteins HD truck shocks can help with "porposing".

I just pulled mine with full fresh tank and had no porposing or "rear bob". And I only have P tires, not LT so this makes me think your WD hitch is not adjusted right. As tafische said the 26 BH is not real tongue heavy either.

LT tires would be better then P tires, even if the P`s are load rated enough for the weight.

Terry · 05-31-2011, 04:11 PM

The truck may lower itself overall - but should be level - and so should the trailer. It sounds like your ball is too low. As far as the chains, at least on mine I have to raise it up to put the chains on - there is too much tension otherwise and it would be unsafe.

Did you but yours from a local dealer? If so, I would recommend you setup some time to go by there and have them look at your setup and give you some assistance. A good dealer should be more than willing to help you.

As I said, you should be getting a nice smooth ride with that combo.

Rustic Eagle · 05-31-2011, 04:28 PM

The 20" P rated 2-ply sidewall tires you referenced in a prior thread (http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=2804) will not give you a very confident "feel" towing a 29ft TT.

The 1,000/10,000 WDH you mentioned is ideal (covers maximum TT tongue weight) for the 26BH when properly adjusted, and your loaded tongue weight should be 13% to 15% of the loaded TT weight (CAT scale is the only way to confirm).

Until you get to a CAT scale, confirm that when you engaged your WD spring bars that the TV's front fender height returns to it's unhitched height. The TV's rear height may drop 1"-2", but this is normal.

Did you get the Class IV TV receiver?

Your WDH, is it a standard WDH, or a "Equal-i-zer" brand WDH?

If you can, post a couple of pic's of your TV/TT hitched up.

Bob

eredinger · 05-31-2011, 05:45 PM

I did get the class 5 hitch for the truck so no worries there. The TT is stored in a lot a few miles away from the house so I will get some picts and post them soon. The Hitch is a standard (not Equal-i-zer) hitch with chain and not brackets that connect the WDH tubes to the trailer.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

David472 · 05-31-2011, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eredinger

So when hooked up the truck does sit a bit down in the rear...but almost not even noticeable. One thing I do notice is the trailer nose is down. I am using an adjustable ball mount with the WD bars. Could this be too low and cause the TT to have the weight shift forward and push the rear end of the truck down?

The only other thing I can think of is I'm putting the WD chains on at the wrong time. I put them on with no weight on the hitch, then lower the trailer fully.

To check the set-up of the hitch, try this,
Park the TV-TT combo on a level and flat paved area, and un-hitch. Now using the TT tongue jack, adjust so the TT is level. Measure the height of the TT coupler. Now measure the height of the TV ball as it sits with nothing connected. It should be slightly higher than the TT coupler height (maybe 1 inch). Now couple the TV and TT together, then raise the coupled combo to engage the WD bars. Raising this way allows for easier-safer WD bar connection. Now lower the TT tongue jack so it's out of the way. The coupler height should now be within one inch of the original, TT levelled height. This will tell you if you're in the ballpark for hitch adjustment. As a previous post said, your dealer should be able to help you make any corrections. If you only need more tension on the WD bars, one or two less chain links may do it. The angle of the hitch head determines the range of possible tension on the WD bars.

It seems you have a friction bar for sway control. Be sure you have it tightened down well. It should make noises when you go around corners. Also, you should feel it "grabing" as it comes into play on the road. A 26BH may be long enough to need two friction bars (one each side of TT tongue). Others can comment on that.

Seann45 · 05-31-2011, 07:15 PM

OK first after you have attached the trailer to the truck crank the tongue jack up as high as you can then attach the WD chains... this is why a lot of us go with power tongue jacks
if getting the WD chains tighter does not fix the problem THEN
look at a HENSLEY ARROW hitch or a pro glide... since I went to my HA hitch I have never had the trailer move from behind me...

Rustic Eagle · 05-31-2011, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David472

snip.....A 26BH may be long enough to need two friction bars (one each side of TT tongue). Others can comment on that.

I agree. Since the OP confirmed that he has a standard WDH (not an Equal-i-zer), most WDH manufactures do in fact recommend that two (2) friction control sway bars be used on TT's longer than 25ft..

Once the OP gets his WDH dialed in, the next move should be to address his sway control....., may want to consider adding a Reese HP Dual Cam to his WDH in lieu of the 2nd sway bar.

Bob

Terry · 05-31-2011, 07:47 PM

Didnt realize that you should have two over 25 feet -- good to know. I can only say that I am pulling my 26BH with one and have never an any sway at all. I tighten it as far as I can by hand, then back off a half turn. It creaks and moans, especially the first few turns. Are you getting yours that tight?

I think I would upgrade to a Reese or Equalizer before I went to the trouble to add another sway bar.

eredinger · 05-31-2011, 08:11 PM

Here's the hitch I have. I think I need to try and check the set up again before I take my next trip. After talking to the wife about it, it didn't feel this way when we left the dealer, so it must be with the height if the new class 5 hitch.

http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/pro/pro_elite.html

I'll check it in the next few days.

Rustic Eagle · 05-31-2011, 08:26 PM

The model EazLift WDH you have is the round bar style, so once you have the correct weight distribution adjustment in place the spring bars should run parallel (as close as possible) to the TT A-frame.

Your TT was empty when it departed the dealer, now it's loaded so the WDH will have to be adjusted. If your new receiver is higher/lower than the old one, as you mentioned this will effect WDH adjustments as well.

Bob

David472 · 05-31-2011, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

snip.... If your new receiver is higher/lower than the old one, as you mentioned this will effect WDH adjustments as well.

Bob

Yes, and if the slope of the receiver tube is different, it will affect the angle of the hitch head, and in turn, the WD bar tension.

David472 · 06-01-2011, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David472

snip..... Now measure the height of the TV ball as it sits with nothing connected. It should be slightly higher than the TT coupler height (maybe 1 inch).

I should have said, the unhitched TV ball height needs to be the same or slightly LOWER (max 1 inch) than the level TT coupler height.
Sorry for the boo boo.

Also, Rustic Eagle makes a good point about tires. An LT tire with stiff sidewall will help the handling when towing.

**Crabman** · 06-01-2011, 11:58 AM

Some very good points being made here by some very experienced towers. I`m glad the OP is being helped with the technical details of his setup. Nice going, guys.

3Pillons · 06-01-2011, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David472

I should have said, the unhitched TV ball height needs to be the same or slightly LOWER (max 1 inch) than the level TT coupler height.
Sorry for the boo boo.

.

Are you sure about that?? My Equal-i-zer manual says to be sure the ball is higher than the coupler. The weight of the trailer will naturally lower it once it's hooked up. Mine is set an inch above the trailer coupler and even with the WDH there is going to be some settling.

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