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Old 01-28-2019, 09:36 PM   #1
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Underbelly removal & replace on Eagle 322FKS

So I had a rat problem in the enclosed underbelly of my Eagle 322FKS travel trailer.
Looking in there today I noticed that beyond all the droppings that smell that they have chewed through my heater vent tubing.
Now it seems the only solution is to remove the underbelly so I can clean and replace the vent tubing.
Has anyone tackled this? Can the original sheeting be re-used or should I buy some coroplast 4'x8' sheets instead.
Does the heater tubing have any vent holes to heat the underbelly?
Would it be a good idea to throw in some insulation since I would have access in there?
Thank you.

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Old 01-29-2019, 01:55 AM   #2
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I removed all the plasticore under belly covering from my own 145rb (16footer). This was due to a rodent infestation where packrats and chipmunks came in through gaping holes around the plasticore near the leaf springs and the drain lines.
I had no duct work to repair, but there were several utility cuts/slashes for piping, electrical, etc that were cut into the fabric that holds up the underfloor insulation. These cuts were made and not dealt with during the build process at the factory. I patched all the poke through holes but did not re-install the plasticore sheet because it was not wide enough to cover the gray and black tanks and span between the frame rails without leaving big gaps. This is because the factory uses plasticore sheeting that is really too narrow. I did not replace the plasticore, but you will likely need to replace it because of the underfloor duct work.
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:26 AM   #3
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Kneel999,

I have an Eagle TT also, that does not have the Glacier package. I removed the underbelly wrap from mine a couple of years ago to add some insulation and see why my black tank flusher wasn't working. It was reasonably easy to remove the chloroplast sheeting - just a tone of screws holding it to the framing. On mine, there was foam insulation sprayed around all of the overflow tubes and where the drain pipe came through. I didn't want to damage that, so I just dropped the underbelly rather than removing it completely. I discovered the underbelly is screwed to the bottom of the I-beam frame and there is a sub-floor on the top of the I-beam. The bottom of the black, grey, and fresh water tanks and a couple of wires were exposed, but no ductwork or water lines. They are between the sub-floor and main floor (above the I-beam frame). I decided not to remove the sub-floor. The good news is, you should be able to access the area you need without removing anything else . . . unless the rat has eaten through the subfloor and gotten into the duct/waterline area above it. Then you're in for some major deconstruction! Hopefully, it's found a nice cozy home in a nook or cranny around one of the tanks or a similar area.

I decided not to add additional insulation, but you certainly could glue some sheet foam to the underside of the sub-floor. After cleaning out and reinstalling the black tank flush, I was able to re-tuck the underbelly into its original position and reinstall the screws holding it in place. It was a bit of a challenge finding the screw holes in the I beam, but I finally got it all put back together. I might suggest picking up a can of Great Stuff pest resistant foam spray (@ Home Depot or Lowes) to spray around any holes you have in the underbelly around pipes, tubes, wires, etc. And some black Gorilla Tape (not Duck Tape) to cover any cuts you might have to make in the chloroplast. You're probably looking at an all day project.


Hope this helps and you're able to dispatch your "guest" without having to take you rig back to the dealer. That's where the really big rats live!. GOOD LUCK!
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:05 AM   #4
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After removal part of the chloroplast and reinstalling it. The best way is to use a chain or cable puller on the end to pull it tight. Just clamp the end between to pieces 3/4 lumber fasten to the pulling mechanism with wire (coat hanger). Take a pointy object to find the old holes in the steel beam for refasten.
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:41 AM   #5
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Thank you everyone for your replies.
I've got a project ahead of me.
I'll try to document how it goes.
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kneel999 View Post
Thank you everyone for your replies.
I've got a project ahead of me.
I'll try to document how it goes.
pictures WILL BE NICE!
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:56 PM   #7
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Underbelly removal & replace on Eagle 322FKS

I removed the coroplast underbelly by cutting it into 4 pieces at the cross beams. I'm going to screw in a pine wood strip on the cross beam to re-attach the pieces.
The rats pulled apart the insulation at the bottom of the water and black tanks. They ate through the heating ducting. I cleaned the coroplast with a power washer and then sprayed them with Odoban which is an odor destroyer and kills 99.9% germs. I'm going to replace the heater ducting and the insulation. Then re-install the coroplast sections and also add some chunks of Irish Spring soap bars in the underbelly because I read in multiple sites that mice/rats hate the smell of them.











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