Unloaded Vehicle Weight

[GarlicDude]

Trying to find what is included in "Unloaded Weight Weight". Doe's this include a a full fresh, grey, and black water?

Best,
Steve

[Midnightmoon]

No, the weight of water is not factored in the dry weight.

Here is an example of the door sticker from my new trailer.

[bansai]

I don't believe it includes your battery either if you're doing somewhat granular calculations.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by GarlicDude

Trying to find what is included in "Unloaded Weight Weight". Doe's this include a a full fresh, grey, and black water?

Best,
Steve

No. Unloaded weight is frequently referred to as "dry" weight. Probably does include full propane tank(s), may or may not include battery. My 23RLSW came with a factory sticker showing unloaded weight rating, and then had a separate paper showing the actual dry weight of the trailer *as equipped*. That was something like 150 pounds more than the sticker dry weight. It pays to load up as you would for a trip, and take the whole shebang to a CAT scale. (I advise this all the time and have yet to do it!)

Roger

P.S. Several very good threads here on how to do the CAT scale thing, because you need to know your tow vehicle's load as well, including total, front and rear axle - especially if you have a weight distribution hitch.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by GarlicDude

Trying to find what is included in "Unloaded Weight Weight".....snip

Steve,

Depends on which "UVW" you are referencing.

Jayco's published UVW's found in brochures, web site, etc..., don't include some miscellaneous base items, options, fluid weights, LP, battery, etc.. One should be very careful when referencing published UVW's.

Jayco's "as shipped" UVW's noted on the yellow sticker attached to the side of the TT includes all options, miscellaneous base items, and weight of LP tank(s) when filled....., the weight of the battery added by the dealership isn't included.

Depending on the model of HTT, TT, FW, etc. being considered, the difference between it's respective "published" UVW and "as-shipped" UVW can be 200lbs to 800lbs. (or more).

Bob

[Northern Jay]

If you can find an RV that matches the published UVW, unicorns do exist!
Happy Camping

[sennister]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Steve,

Depends on which "UVW" you are referencing.

Jayco's published UVW's found in brochures, web site, etc..., don't include some miscellaneous base items, options, fluid weights, LP, battery, etc.. One should be very careful when referencing published UVW's.

Jayco's "as shipped" UVW's noted on the yellow sticker attached to the side of the TT includes all options, miscellaneous base items, and weight of LP tank(s) when filled....., the weight of the battery added by the dealership isn't included.

Depending on the model of HTT, TT, FW, etc. being considered, the difference between it's respective "published" UVW and "as-shipped" UVW can be 200lbs to 800lbs. (or more).

Bob

This is the right answer. UVW really doesn't tell you anything other than the trailer you may buy will weigh at least this much. If any options are added it will be higher along with a lot of the other needed items.

If trying to do calculations when shopping for a new camper. I would recommend just working with the GVWR number. This is the most the camper can weigh with full tanks (FW, Grey and black) any cargo in it along with all the options and other necessary things like propane and battery. This doesn't mean you can just go with this number and it isn't still recommended to visit a CAT Scale to get real info though. However that isn't exactly possible when shopping. It isn't like you are going to load a camper out with all your stuff unless you bought it. The benefit of working the numbers with GVWR is it prevents you from having to worry as much about the balancing game Even with a 25' Lightweight trailer we have to watch the tongue weights. At full GVWR we are a bit over if I run a full 15% TW. I don't run at full GVWR to get around that. I like having a buffer anyhow. Too many people use the UVW and the dry hitch numbers when sizing a camper to a tow vehicle as they shop and it isn't realistic. They later find our their tow vehicle is over loaded.

[RedHorse1]

IMHO "senn" is offering good advise. Using GVWR as worst case for weight planning is a good way to figure out before purchase if your TV is up to the task. I also believe it's more complicated than comparing the TV GAWR to the TV's "max towing" number. My experience (limited) says you will reach the Rear GAWR long before the max towing number.

A visit to a CAT Scale will yield the weight on the rear axle, the difference between that and the Rear GAWR is how much "stuff" can be added to the rear axle (tongue weight, hitch, folding chairs, grill...). Assume 100# for a WDH and an estimate of what goes in the bed, subtract that from the available rear axle cargo number and what is left will be an approximate max tongue weight. Divide the max tongue number by 0.15, the result is the approximate max TT weight you should consider.
All that said, many folks exceed their axle limits and have no problems. I recently met a guy at a CG who tows his 16k toy hauler with an F150. "Air bags to level it out, no problems".

[GarlicDude]

My reason for asking the question is I think Jayco was cheap on the tires on my Feather 7 18RBM. The yellow sticker on the side puts the trailer at 3069 lbs. add water at 399 lbs. for a total of 3468 lbs. The tires on the trailer are 205/75 R14 C rating, at 1760 lbs. x 2=3520 lbs. These tires barely get you out the door let alone get you to the max GVW of 3975 lbs. A little PO'd at Jayco!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by GarlicDude

My reason for asking the question is I think Jayco was cheap on the tires on my Feather 7 18RBM.....snip

Yes, most RV manufactures cut it close on OEM tire ratings...., but RV manufactures take into consideration that the loaded tongue weight is supported by the tow vehicle so it doesn't count against the tire weight rating (Jayco told me this years ago)...., so only a CAT scale can tell you where you actually stand.

I upgraded my Jayco OEM "C's" to "E's" a number of years ago...., even with four tires on the ground I was splitting weight hairs with the "C's"....., a "D" tire would have given me enough tire weight coverage, but went with the "E's" for added sidewall strength for my heavy TT.

Bob

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by GarlicDude

My reason for asking the question is I think Jayco was cheap on the tires on my Feather 7 18RBM. The yellow sticker on the side puts the trailer at 3069 lbs. add water at 399 lbs. for a total of 3468 lbs. The tires on the trailer are 205/75 R14 C rating, at 1760 lbs. x 2=3520 lbs. These tires barely get you out the door let alone get you to the max GVW of 3975 lbs. A little PO'd at Jayco!

You appear to be overlooking one basic design factor in travel trailers, namely that 10-15% of the trailer's weight will be on the hitch, not on the trailer's tires. Call it 12% for a working number, it could go higher depending on how you load the trailer. 12% of your 3975 is 477 pounds, leaving 3498 on the tires. Surprise, almost exactly the load rating of your tires, with a few pounds extra for margin!

Based on that, I'm not sure you should be PO'd at Jayco.

Roger

[GarlicDude]

New to travel trailers, but had lots of problems with a pop-up camper and marginal tires. With my engineering mentality I would think that the 12% that is tongue weight should be a margin of safety. When Jayco is buying tires in bulk how much more would the cost have been for D rated tires?

[bedrck46]

Originally Posted by GarlicDude

New to travel trailers, but had lots of problems with a pop-up camper and marginal tires. With my engineering mentality I would think that the 12% that is tongue weight should be a margin of safety. When Jayco is buying tires in bulk how much more would the cost have been for D rated tires?

And you can be assured the cost would be passed on to the buyer

[BC Boondocker]

I find this thread interesting because Of how my Sticker/Decals worked out on my unit.

I have a yellow Decal on my door stating the weight of the Vehicle at time off manufacturer, and it notes cargo capacity. Then stating the weight of water should be counted against cargo capacity.
" The weight of cargo should never exceed: 351 kg. or ( 773 Lbs. )
A full load of water equals 102 kg. or ( 224 Lbs. )"

Then I have an identical sticker on the outside of the unit.

Below that is another yellow sticker that states ---
"The Weight of this recreational vehicle trailer as completed at the factory with a full propane cylinder(s) and full generator fuel is applicable is: 1125 kg. or ( 2477 Lbs. )"

Beside that second yellow sticker I have another white sticker that clearly states "Cargo carrying capacity: 550 Lbs( 249 KG) Calculated with the fresh water tanks full
Cold 174 LBS( 78 KG) HOT 49 LBS( 22 KG)
And the waste water tanks Empty
Mass of waste water tanks full 41 LBS( 18 KG)"

Realistically it leaves very little to the imagination as to what the weights are....

Based on my stickers the statement indicates that GVW includes batteries, Full Propane (and generator if you have one full of fuel). Then the water weight is calculated based on volume of tank (not actually having anything in it.) and that number is deducted from Cargo Capacity.

[jasum]

NO!!!


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[GarlicDude]

[QUOTE=bedrck46;524163]And you can be assured the cost would be passed on to the buyer


Rather to have paid up front for better tires instead of the hassle of buying a D rated tire and then having to pay to have them installed. I think I would have been money ahead if Jayco had put D rated tires on to begin with.

[rkresge]

[QUOTE=GarlicDude;524230]

Originally Posted by bedrck46

And you can be assured the cost would be passed on to the buyer


Rather to have paid up front for better tires instead of the hassle of buying a D rated tire and then having to pay to have them installed. I think I would have been money ahead if Jayco had put D rated tires on to begin with.

Like yours, the tires on my Jayco trailer have slightly more than sufficient capacity for my trailer's GVWR, assuming 10-15% of the GVWR is on the hitch. I don't see what's to complain about.

We see this discussion time after time. It would appear that 95% or more of all RVers never see a tire problem. And beyond that, the vast majority of all RV tire failures (especially on travel trailers) appear to be related to under inflation and/or overloading those ST tires. Not holding myself up as a shining example, but before every driving day, I get up early and do a cold tire pressure check on my tires, both trailer and tow vehicle, and make sure they're properly inflated. And I use a TPMS on the trailer. I think DW and I are a lot safer that way.

Roger