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Old 09-25-2013, 12:22 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
Are you certain that the dual heat source water heater is OEM? Was a dual source water heater standard? My 2001 23B is propane only. Maybe a previous owner had the tank replaced?

Just questions. That is some very poor workmanship at any rate. Good job tracking it down. vic
Based on original paperwork that came with the trailer the dual heat source water heater was original. I suppose it could have been replaced but I found no signs of it being changed.

Dennis
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:25 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Tail_gunner View Post
I wouldn't hold your breath on getting Jayco to even recognize your little electrical issue.

I never heard anything from them about this issue:
Almost-had-an-electrical-fire!!
I think after reading your story I'll check all of the connections in my load center before I put the cover back in place. Thanks.

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Old 09-25-2013, 07:17 AM   #13
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It would not surprise me, if the previous owner had changed that wiring connection, and what you see is his idea of a good connection. Good job finding the problem!
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:11 AM   #14
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Maybe I'm not following the issue correctly but isn't the use of wire nuts to connect stranded and copper wire pretty common in 120V applications? I see stranded to solid connections all the time in celing light fixtures so maybe the issue is with the current draw by the hot water heater. Why isn't the casing stripped back on the neutral wire in the picture? Is that on a 15a or 20a breaker they used with 14/2 wire?
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:15 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by David472 View Post
It would not surprise me, if the previous owner had changed that wiring connection, and what you see is his idea of a good connection. Good job finding the problem!
I'm not trying to defend Jayco, but that situation doesn't look like what I've found in my 23b. Overall the OEM wiring seems pretty well done. By all means see what Jayco has to say.

Perhaps just the heater element was changed? In an empty water tank the element will burn out rather quickly when powered. Anyone who would make open air electrical connections like that might also power up an MT water heater tank.

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Old 09-25-2013, 10:32 AM   #16
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All electrical codes require 120V connections to be enclosed in a suitable box. In addition, you cannot mix 120V and 12V in the same box either. All 120V wiring must be on approved Romex or other wire approved for high voltage AC use (unsheathed wire must be in conduit). There is nothing about this that could pass any code inspection.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:39 PM   #17
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Maybe I'm not following the issue correctly but isn't the use of wire nuts to connect stranded and copper wire pretty common in 120V applications? I see stranded to solid connections all the time in celing light fixtures so maybe the issue is with the current draw by the hot water heater. Why isn't the casing stripped back on the neutral wire in the picture? Is that on a 15a or 20a breaker they used with 14/2 wire?
The connection was not made with wire nuts. They were scotch-lock connectors similar to this picture. You just clamp them on the wire and hope the metallic spade slices through the insulation. These may work for low voltage applications but I think they are poor for 120V.

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Old 09-25-2013, 12:46 PM   #18
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X2 this type of connector is never authorized for 120v applications.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:49 PM   #19
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Thanks, Dennis. I've used them wiring stereos in my cars but never knew the name of them. Makes sense now.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #20
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A good use of those type connectors has not yet been invented. Until then I would suggest not using them for anything. And finding those connectors suggests a home repair job to me.
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