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Old 05-21-2015, 08:09 AM   #1
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w/d hitch

Hey guys need a little help here.

Looking at getting this w/d 1000lb complete here's the link

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/weight-distribution-hitch.htm

If y'all can help me I have a question about it I can do normal turns etc gas stations etc but when I go to park it, I'd have to take it off correct?
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:13 AM   #2
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:56 AM   #3
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you can make normal turns with everything attached But it is best to remove the sway control bar when backing into a campsite as your turns will most likely be much tighter and another good reason to remove the sway control as you have no need for at being your in a campground and moving less than 20mph
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:09 AM   #4
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I use the Pro Series with 1200 Lbs. Bars and sway and works good for me. They are easy adjustable. Have used the Reese products for over 45 years.


Happy Camping!
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:50 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the input!!

Does it help control the sway considerably?

Also do the bars just unlatch and then your able to park it or do you have to take the whole set up off
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:59 AM   #6
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When I park for a few days I take the DWH off also the from the Truck. Just for parking during travel I always leave them on. The single sway control helps a lot. but if you are over 30 ft. use two of them.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:10 AM   #7
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It does help control sway but also needs to be adjusted properly not to tight or to loose. Remove the sway control prior to backing on to the camp site. A good time to do that is when you check in. Good habit to get into. Then proceed to your site. After you get your camper on site check for side to side level. You may need some boards to place under the wheels. Once your level side to side which may require you to pull forward and the reverse a few times until you get it level. Then set your wheel chocks and begin to unhitch. Place a board or 4X4 under the tongue jack and leave the ball still attached to the hitch Then raise the tongue jack so that it raises both the camper and tow vehicle so to take pressure off the equalizer bars. Release the chains from the snap brackets and remove the bars and also unplug the 7 pin connector Then lower the tongue so that you can release the ball latch. Once the ball is free and clear of the tongue move the tow vehicle forward. At this point you then can level the camper front to back. After everything is level then set your stabilizer jacks
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:27 AM   #8
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I have a similar trunnion style hitch. I agree with all of the above. I generally take the hitch out of the receiver because we use the bed of the truck for things like picking up fire wood and it just gets in the way. Do what works for you.

With sway control, it should not be used to fix a sway issue. If you have a sway issue then you need to look at tongue weight and how the trailer is sitting (too high in front). If everything is setup properly, in theory you can leave the sway bar off and it should track perfectly. Sway control is like insurance, you don't need it until you need it. It will most certainly help when the unexpected happens. High side winds, fast semis blowing by you, evasive maneuvers, can all cause dangerous sway.

Get to know how to manually operate your trailer brake, because even with the sway control the manual lever when pressure is gently applied can help bring sway under control also.
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:04 AM   #9
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I've pulled the trailer quite a few times so I have the hang of it just wanting it to be more safe.

I'll have to get in the habit of taking it all off when I get to my site or destination.

Why do you suggest to use 2 instead of 1 if over 30ft? I'm actually 31ft

Yeah well I'm lucky our tow vehicle has a form of sway control so if it starts getting wild it kicks in.

So when tighting it up best is to just get it sung?
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:09 AM   #10
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Just fyi..

Be prepared for the WDH to make an awful racket. If it's grinding and squeaking like it's ripping your trailer apart, it's working. If it doesn't, it's not working.
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Old 05-21-2015, 12:13 PM   #11
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Just fyi..

Be prepared for the WDH to make an awful racket. If it's grinding and squeaking like it's ripping your trailer apart, it's working. If it doesn't, it's not working.
??? Not only have I never heard that before, in my experience lots of noise means something isn't quite right. Pivot points can and should be greased, spring bar chains should be free to move and not be rubbing against anything. The only real noise I sometimes get is the sway control bar groaning if it gets wet.
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Old 05-21-2015, 12:37 PM   #12
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:31 PM   #13
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Just fyi..
Be prepared for the WDH to make an awful racket. If it's grinding and squeaking like it's ripping your trailer apart, it's working. If it doesn't, it's not working.
I believe this is a 'feature' of the Equal-i-zer Brand, like mine, when driving slow and turning hard in campgrounds etc. It's been an outstanding hitch for me for the roughly 150,000 miles I've towed TT with it.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:56 PM   #14
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I believe this is a 'feature' of the Equal-i-zer Brand, like mine, when driving slow and turning hard in campgrounds etc. It's been an outstanding hitch for me for the roughly 150,000 miles I've towed TT with it.
Yep! The Equal-i-zer throws a fit in slow, hard-turning situations. Definately draws alot of attention in the CG's. Especially coming in at night!
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Old 05-21-2015, 03:54 PM   #15
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Yep! The Equal-i-zer throws a fit in slow, hard-turning situations. Definately draws alot of attention in the CG's. Especially coming in at night!
I won't be the one you hear at night , but I may be the one waking you up in the AM when I leave.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:44 PM   #16
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My dad started camping 1967 and used a friction style sway bar on a Equal-i-zer brand hitch and I have own a TT and other style trailers since 1976 and I have used Equal-i-zer brand hitch with the friction style sway bar and have never removed it to back up. I never heard any one say that till I joined JOF. Maybe I have been lucky and uninformed. But if I do have to start removing it .....well I don't know.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:57 PM   #17
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My dad started camping 1967 and used a friction style sway bar on a C hitch and I have own a TT and other style trailers since 1976 and I have used Equal-i-zer brand hitch with the friction style sway bar and have never removed it to back up. I never heard any one say that till I joined JOF. Maybe I have been lucky and uninformed. But if I do have to start removing it .....well I don't know.
Like you, all I've ever had is Equal-i-zer brand and NEVER removed the bars to back up. I believe with OTHER brands of WDH it is either necessary or recommended the anti-sway friction mechanism be removed or released.

Just keep doin' what you're doin'. It's all good.
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Old 05-22-2015, 06:31 AM   #18
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I believe this is a 'feature' of the Equal-i-zer Brand, like mine, when driving slow and turning hard in campgrounds etc. It's been an outstanding hitch for me for the roughly 150,000 miles I've towed TT with it.
It is a feature all right. On our first trip out I only got 6 blocks and stopped to get gas. Turning into the gas station it made a nice loud screatching sound and someone came up to me and said "I think there is something wrong with your breaks. When you pulled in it made a horrible grinding sound." I said no, it's the WDH, it's supposed to do that. Thank you for letting me know though

From then on it seemed to get a little better and was completely quiet on the highway but anytime I pulled into a gas station or CG the noise drew the attention of everyone there.

I just purchased the Equal-i-zer Sway Bracket Jackets to quiet things down. We'll see how they work this weekend!
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Old 05-22-2015, 06:32 AM   #19
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I believe with OTHER brands of WDH it is either necessary or recommended the anti-sway friction mechanism be removed or released.
Only with friction bar sway control, and then only if there is a need to jack knife it to get into a space. I actually bent the ball mount a little because I didn't remove it when backing into a thought spot. But it literally takes less than a minute to remove.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:12 AM   #20
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Like you, all I've ever had is Equal-i-zer brand and NEVER removed the bars to back up. I believe with OTHER brands of WDH it is either necessary or recommended the anti-sway friction mechanism be removed or released.....snip
All "OTHER" brands (Reese, Draw-Tite, Anderson, etc.) of WDH's that utilize 'integrated' sway control similar to the Equal-z-er brand WDH don't require the "anti-sway friction mechanism be removed or released" (spring bars).

The standard friction sway control arm is manufactured by numerous WDH brand names and is an independent product utilized with/or without a WDH depending on the application...., but yes, it is this particular "add-on" friction sway control device that manufactures recommend removing under sharp TV/TT turning maneuvers while backing.

Bob
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