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Old 09-04-2011, 02:51 PM   #1
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Water flow problem--HELP

We have a 2008 Jay Feather 25F which we bought new. We've had to replace the heater blower motor, had black water dumping issues, couldn't get the valve to open and of course the ever popular "my guages always read full even after dumping.
Now we have a flow problem. I checked at the source and it is strong with nothing attached. I changed the screen in the pressure regulator and the flow was good. I checked to make sure the hose was clear and it was. When I connected the regulator to the hose the flowwas good. When I connected everything to the trailer I had pencil thin flow inside. I'm out of ideas except connecting the hose with out the pressure regulator, but I'm concerned about damage inside the trailer.
ANY SUGGESTIONS AND HELP ARE DEEPLY APPRECIATED!
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Old 09-04-2011, 02:58 PM   #2
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I would check to see if the check valve in the city water connector didn't come apart and plug up the water line. Just pull the screen out and see if the 'pointy' end of the check valve is still secure.

Good luck!
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Old 09-04-2011, 04:16 PM   #3
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Check the screen in the city water connection while checking the check valve.
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:54 PM   #4
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Water Flow Problem

Guys,
Are we talking about the connection at the back of the trailer where I connect my hose?
there's no screen there only a white plastic teet.

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Old 09-04-2011, 07:48 PM   #5
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Where you connect your hose -- there is a one way valve there (otherwise the water would come out when you turn on the pump). Sounds like maybe that has stuck closed. Does your water system work fine with you use tank water?



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Old 09-04-2011, 07:57 PM   #6
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We are talking this:
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:04 AM   #7
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Water Flow Problem

TopFlight,
I have never used my water tank system, only hooked up to water source. I don't have a screen like you show in the picture, just some white thing inside the line opening. If that white pointy thing should move freely, and mine doesn't, is there something I can do to break it free?
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:51 AM   #8
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...I'm out of ideas except connecting the hose with out the pressure regulator, but I'm concerned about damage inside the trailer.
ANY SUGGESTIONS AND HELP ARE DEEPLY APPRECIATED!
WLS749
Most problems with restricted water flow are caused either by clogged screens in the kitchen/bathroom sink faucets, a kinked water hose or a defective water pressure regulator. You can easily check the trailer's water system and pressure regulator using this procedure.
  1. With everything connectced normally, check the water flow by turning the bathtub's cold water valve on. Why the bathtub faucet? Because it has no screen in it to clog so the water should always flow normally. As an additional tip, when filling your hot water tank (HWT), you should always open your bathtub hot water valve to bleed the air out so that any debris in bottom of the HWT that might get stirred up when filling and sucked into the water line will be safely expelled into the tub and go down the drain. If you use a bathroom/kitchen sink faucet to bleed the line, you run the risk of the faucet's screen getting clogged by this debris.
  2. If the water flow at the bathtub appears normal, then you most likely have clogged screens in the kitchen and/or bathroom sink faucets. If the water flow at the bathtub is restricted, continue.
  3. Leave the bathtub cold water valve on and turn off the water at the outside water hookup
  4. Remove the pressure regulator from your hose and reattach the hose to the water line without it
  5. Turn on the water at the hookup slowly and gradually increase the flow as someone inside watches the flow at the bathtub faucet.
  6. If the water flow is normal, then your problem is in the pressure regulator and it needs to be replaced.
  7. If the flow at the bathtub faucet is still restricted, immediately turn off the water at the hokup and check for a kinked water hose. If the hose isn't kinked, then the problem is somewhere in the water lines of the trailer.

On my last campout, our pressure regulator suddenly failed while my wife was taking a shower and I was out on an errand. The poor girl has to rinse herself off as best she could using only the water that was in our Pur pitcher. Talk about a Navy shower! She was not a "happy camper" when I arrived home.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:09 AM   #9
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TopFlight,
If that white pointy thing should move freely, and mine doesn't, is there something I can do to break it free?
The white pointy thing is the check valve. If there is 50 lbs pressure on the inside, no, the check valve will not move freely. You will get sprayed if you push hard enough. If you open a faucet to relieve the pressure, then the valve should move in and out freely under a small spring pressure.

The valve is easy to take apart, but you must remove it from the camper and remove the hose from the back side to remove the check valve stem. The O-ring may have come off and jambed the valve.

Another way to check the check valve to see if it is working, is to put water in the FW tank and turn the pump on. With all faucets closed the pump should stop running after pressure is built up. Then check to see if any water is coming out the city water connection. It should not if the check valve is working.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wls749 View Post
TopFlight,
I have never used my water tank system, only hooked up to water source. I don't have a screen like you show in the picture, just some white thing inside the line opening. If that white pointy thing should move freely, and mine doesn't, is there something I can do to break it free?
That "white pointy thing" is the check valve and its purpose is to prevent water from flowing out the city water inlet when you're using your water tank and pump. When the trailer water lines are under pressure, you shouldn't be able to move it; nor should you try to as damage might occur.

However, if you open a faucet, this will remove the water pressure and you should then be able to push it in. It's spring loaded so when you release it, it should come back out.

When you winterize your trailer, the last step when you put the antifreeze in the lines is to turn off the water pump, open a faucet until the pressure on the line is relieved and turn the faucet off. Then, while someone outside pushes the check valve in, turn the water pump back on. When the pink antifreeze squirts out of the city water inlet, release the check valve and allow the pump to pressurize the water lines (until the pump stops). Then, turn off the pump.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:41 PM   #11
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Smile

Thanks to one and all. I will try the suggestions when I go out on Wednesdsay and let you know.
Thanks Again,
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #12
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FPMIII,
Do the screens on the bathroom sink and kitchen faucets come off for cleaning?
If the problem is in the inside water lines, who do I call?
I hope it's the regulator!!!!!!!! I'll let you all know.
My regulator is just one from Wal-Mart and 4 years old.
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:08 PM   #13
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FPMIII,
Do the screens on the bathroom sink and kitchen faucets come off for cleaning?...
Yes, they're in the aerator that's attached to the end of the spout where the water comes out. They unscrew from the spout. If you have difficulty getting enough grip on the aerator to turn it, try using one of those rubber sheets that you use to remove jar lids. Don't use pliers or wrenches unless you want to scratch up the finish and/or possibly damage something. Hand tighten/loosen only.

And, remember: "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" (I'm only saying this to remind you to think about the direction you're turning in. Being that the aerator is threaded in underneath the spout, it sometimes confuses some folks as to which direction to turn.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:09 AM   #14
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You also might want to check for small gravel in the system. Mine came from the factory with it. The dealer thought I might have gotten it into my hoses,but then I showed them the tripple filter filtration system I have and how it is all enclosed, and that I always hook the male and female ends together when not in use.
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