water heater door wont close flush

[jbagnall]

I realized my water heater door wasn't closing fully on one side. It looks like whoever did the install didn't do that great of a job, and the "metal guard" thing is blocking it so the door hits that before it closes all the way.

Here are some pictures. I circled what's making it so my access door won't close all the way.

That upper left angle bracket is all funky and not "flush" either.

Any suggestions on what to do so my access panel door will close flush against the camper?

[jbagnall]

I ordered a replacement part to see if a new one fits better. If not, I'll probably dremel it to fit. Unless someone thinks the dremel option is a bad idea. Thanks.

[Jagiven]

Mine does that when the pressure relief valve is not in the correct position.

[jbagnall]

Interesting. Will play with that. Thanks.

[Scott]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Mine does that when the pressure relief valve is not in the correct position.

x2. I can't see your pressure relief valve in the picture. I open mine when draining the tank and if I forget to close the valve before closing the water heater door, it won't close all the way.

[muckinfuss]

Mine was blocked from a tight close by the same issue as the OP.....I pulled up on the door, the hinge is 'soft' enough to flex and then put it closed and all was well.

[jbagnall]

I played with the pressure valve and that didn't change anything. I even got a new flue box assembly for fun and that didn't do the trick either.

I think my water heater must be mounted funny. I just plan to dremel off a little bit of the flue box so that the door will shut flush against the camper. It fits flush on the right side (when looking at it) - it's just the left side that's out of whack because the flue box bumps against the door.

[DBuley]

I had same problem. At end of season, I took that heat exhaust off(couple sheet metal screws) and used tin snips to trim outer edges on that vent till outer cover fit. Quick spray with cold galv spray paint to seal up cut ends from rust. Couple dabs of orange high heat silicone where on corners to keep it from buzzing when running and reinstall.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Keep in mind, the door itself is made of the thinnest gauge material you can get, so most of the time it just bows from temperature changes. We have had 3 trailers now and they all do the same thing. I can push it flush and it will stay put. Get on the road or use the heater and the door just bows again to a non-flush position.

[Bugzilla46310]

I added some strong magnets I got from K&J magnets to the top corners to keep the door closed tight. One top corner would always be out about an 1/8”. You can see them on the top of the frame. They do the job.

[jbagnall]

Thanks. The door closes and stays shut. It's just that the one side is flush against the camper where the other side isn't and little things like that drive me nuts, hah.