Water heater drain

[Dannie0429]

Originally Posted by skids

Sorry Dannie0429! I misunderstood what was asked. I thought they were talking about the plug, not the annode.

Skids, no problem..

[Camper_bob]

On my TT, I was able to use a 15/16 socket on an extension to remove that plug. I could "straddle" the propane line that runs in front of the plug with my fingers (thumb over, fingers under) and get it started to ensure the plug doesn't cross-thread, then snug it down with the socket.

On my MH (same water heater), that line is positioned slightly different, so I don't have a straight shot to the plug anymore. Plus my fingers don't straddle it right any more.

So, while I have historically removed the plug as it was easy, I'm looking at other methods now...

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

On my MH (same water heater), that line is positioned slightly different, so I don't have a straight shot to the plug anymore. Plus my fingers don't straddle it right any more.

So, while I have historically removed the plug as it was easy, I'm looking at other methods now...

On my rig (same heater too), I did the nylon nipple/braided hose with valve deal. I wanted to make it easy to drain the heater between trips (so it doesn't ferment), and removing and re-threading the plug each time, wasn't in the plan.

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

On my TT, I was able to use a 15/16 socket on an extension to remove that plug. I could "straddle" the propane line that runs in front of the plug with my fingers (thumb over, fingers under) and get it started to ensure the plug doesn't cross-thread, then snug it down with the socket.

On my MH (same water heater), that line is positioned slightly different, so I don't have a straight shot to the plug anymore. Plus my fingers don't straddle it right any more.

So, while I have historically removed the plug as it was easy, I'm looking at other methods now...

I have one of these wrenches for the drain plug. I do usually use a socket, but this one stays in the TT.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Water-H.../dp/B00BMRRZ94

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

On my rig (same heater too), I did the nylon nipple/braided hose with valve deal. I wanted to make it easy to drain the heater between trips (so it doesn't ferment), and removing and re-threading the plug each time, wasn't in the plan.

When we get to camp I do these 5 things:
* turn on the power switch and plug in the shore cord.
* open the valve on the propane tank.
* switch on the fridge.
* light the stove to purge gas, then turn off again.
* turn on the hot water tank.

(In Winter I also start the furnace, and of course the water tank is not lit because it's dry)

At the end of the weekend, I turn off all the stuff I just turned on, refill the fresh water tank And add 1 oz of bleach per 10 gal of added water.

I only use clean city water, and actually I drink it as well. Seems OK to me and I never saw any fermenting. The only time I drain the system is late October before the freeze sets in.

YMMV.

[Mrlin10000]

Nice neat job. Brass into aluminum or galvanized would concern me. I used a nylon/plastic adapter to connect to the tank to be safe.

[Scuba357]

Originally Posted by Dannie0429

With the help of a friend made this water heater drain relief. Releases the water for winterizing. I attach a braided hose to end to direct the water flow. No more fighting with that plastic plug.

Any help on the part or thread that screws into the HWH? Where was it purchased? What department at Home Depot?

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Scuba357

Any help on the part or thread that screws into the HWH? Where was it purchased? What department at Home Depot?

When I did mine, my Depot didn't have it, had to order on Amazon.

Search for "nylon 1/2" nipple".

[Teddy]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

On my TT, I was able to use a 15/16 socket on an extension to remove that plug. I could "straddle" the propane line that runs in front of the plug with my fingers (thumb over, fingers under) and get it started to ensure the plug doesn't cross-thread, then snug it down with the socket.

On my MH (same water heater), that line is positioned slightly different, so I don't have a straight shot to the plug anymore. Plus my fingers don't straddle it right any more.

So, while I have historically removed the plug as it was easy, I'm looking at other methods now...

A tip to prevent cross threading for those who don't know and this applies to screw threads of all kinds: Start by slowly turning by hand counter-clockwise until you hear and or feel a subtle "click." Now you are properly seated with screw thread properly started. Now turn clockwise as you normally do to tighten. Works every time! Especially good for plastic threads.

-Teddy

[steve.jurnigan]

You would have thought that the water heater manufactures and the trailer manufactures would have gotten together and installed a low point drain under the trailer to drain the hot water heater without all the mess. Also the water left in the water heater after it is drained , if it freezes will only rise in the water heater tank. It will not damage anything.

[Fleetman]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Dumb question, but my plug has the anode rod to help reduce corrosion. Is it ok to remove this?

Yes, I remove mine annually to drain and also inspect for replacement of necessary.

[Quantum]

I just have teflon tape on my plastic plug, and I only have to hand tighten it to prevent it from leaking. When it comes time to drain the tank, I just loosen it by hand. The teflon tape lasts a couple of years for me before I have to reapply it.

BTW, to the original poster, I see your spare key! I wonder how many of us hide the spare in the hot water heater?

[CaptainVideo]

Great idea. Really hits a cord because I just soaked myself draining mine.

Could you share more details on the different fittings and sizes? Also, why the L instead of just putting the fitting on the end of the pipe before it Ls?

[shloubrew]

Yup. That’s all I do. Open up the 2 low point drains and everything from both the pipes and water heater comes out. What ever small quantity is left in the water heater doesn’t cause an issue.

[Wm.Ince]

Originally Posted by Teddy

A tip to prevent cross threading for those who don't know and this applies to screw threads of all kinds: Start by slowly turning by hand counter-clockwise until you hear and or feel a subtle "click." Now you are properly seated with screw thread properly started. Now turn clockwise as you normally do to tighten. Works every time! Especially good for plastic threads.

That's a good tip!
Thanks, Teddy.

[Wm.Ince]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

. . . I did something similar. I installed a short nipple, and used a braided flexible sink hose, with a 1/4 turn valve like yours. When I drain, I just let the hose drop out of the compartment.

Thanks Jagiven.
Would like to see a couple photos of that. I like your idea.
Where did you shop for the parts?

[Dannie0429]

Originally Posted by Scuba357

Any help on the part or thread that screws into the HWH? Where was it purchased? What department at Home Depot?

1/2 inch male apex adapter. Home Depot.

[Dannie0429]

Originally Posted by Quantum

I just have teflon tape on my plastic plug, and I only have to hand tighten it to prevent it from leaking. When it comes time to drain the tank, I just loosen it by hand. The teflon tape lasts a couple of years for me before I have to reapply it.

BTW, to the original poster, I see your spare key! I wonder how many of us hide the spare in the hot water heater?

We store our camper and have it delivered to campsite. So key is for them. Don't tell anyone .��

[Dannie0429]

Originally Posted by CaptainVideo

Great idea. Really hits a cord because I just soaked myself draining mine.

Could you share more details on the different fittings and sizes? Also, why the L instead of just putting the fitting on the end of the pipe before it Ls?

1/2 inch male pex adapter, 90 degree pex union. and 1/4 turn valve. The L was because couldn't screw in the cut off because of tight fit against gas line. Even if we had screwed in the adapter and then connected the cut off it would not unscrew if needed.

[SUP]

The only problem with all these ideas, although great in theory, is that the plastic plug is plastic for a reason. If your pressure relief valve fails under pressure the plastic plug is designed to blow out instead of your water heater tank exploding.