Water heater drain

[skids]

For me the big issue was the fear of galvanic corrosion. The spigot that I was using was also too slow. It was like a radiator drain.

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by SUP

The only problem with all these ideas, although great in theory, is that the plastic plug is plastic for a reason. If your pressure relief valve fails under pressure the plastic plug is designed to blow out instead of your water heater tank exploding.

Agree with the above. Also, wouldn't brass and aluminum cause galvanic corrosion?

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by RAurand

Agree with the above. Also, wouldn't brass and aluminum cause galvanic corrosion?

Yes it will. The aluminum will corrode where its surface contacts the brass, because brass is more cathodic.

[Cranetech]

Great idea. I hate trying to get that plug in and sealed. As far as the cup of water goes I don’t think it will cause a problem. If it freezes it won’t split the tank because it won’t expand enough to do so

[Mr Lebo]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Nice, I did something similar. I installed a short nipple, and used a braided flexible sink hose, with a 1/4 turn valve like yours. When I drain, I just let the hose drop out of the compartment.

Great JOB!

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Cranetech

Great idea. I hate trying to get that plug in and sealed. As far as the cup of water goes I don’t think it will cause a problem. If it freezes it won’t split the tank because it won’t expand enough to do so

One area of concern I saw was inside the coach, where the incoming cold line attached to the tank. It runs upward into the tank, and even with the plug out, I can see water will sit in this location and the low spot that consists of a Pex connection and the bottom bypass valve.

If this section isn't blown out with air, or filled with some AF, it could be a potential freeze/crack area.

[Duke4857]

I use a crows foot wrench to take the plug out. 15/16 is the size I think.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

It will also work if you have a rod in the tank. I leave the plug out all winter so that if the little bit of water in the tank does freeze it has somewhere to go. 2 cups of water will not split the tank if it freezes.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Personally I follow the KISS approach. I remove the plug with a socket and wobble extension, the open the pressure relief valve and let the water empty the heater in about 2 minutes. Once a year I flush the heater, being very careful that the wand stays on the hose....( https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f18/water-heater-warning-70990.html )
, reinstall the plug and refill with water. I never leave the water heater empty because of the risk of accidentally turning on the gas or electric heaters and damaging it...speaking from experience! Been there, done that.


I have followed that procedure for over 20 years...almost without any issues (Read the link above!). Simple, easy and quick!

[jnpj6279]

I notice when using air I don’t have the residual fluid.

[Hollander Mutthaulers]

Handy modification! The drain on my water heater is very awkward to reach. I attached a SS braided water line using a hard-to-find CPVC close nipple. Had to go to a pipe supply to find it, but when the clerk asked what it was for he said go ahead and take it, no charge. Thanks, Columbia Pipe!

The small amount of water left in the 6 gallon heater may freeze, but won't damage anything. Not sure what kind of sediment would be in this non-anoid aluminum heater; all the water going into it is filtered and it gets drained regularly.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by Hollander Mutthaulers

Not sure what kind of sediment would be in this non-anoid aluminum heater; all the water going into it is filtered and it gets drained regularly.

Depends on the hardness of the water. Water with a high mineral content, which is found in a large part of the USA, will leave large deposits of calcium. Most of the time theses deposits will just settle to the bottom of the tank, but if there is an excessive amount they can find their water into the water system and start causing clogging problems.


When I leave home my water tank and water heater are filled with soft water, but once that's gone and I have to use campground water then I make sure I drain all of it when I get back home.


The drain extension may be a good idea, but eliminates the rapid evacuation of water from the heater which carries out sediment deposits, as well as eliminates the use of a flushing wand. Just my $0.02....

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by Teddy

A tip to prevent cross threading for those who don't know and this applies to screw threads of all kinds: Start by slowly turning by hand counter-clockwise until you hear and or feel a subtle "click." Now you are properly seated with screw thread properly started. Now turn clockwise as you normally do to tighten. Works every time! Especially good for plastic threads.

-Teddy

Grandpa taught me that about 60 years ago. Glad you posted it. Lots of things today are lost art.

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

The drain extension may be a good idea, but eliminates the rapid evacuation of water from the heater which carries out sediment deposits, as well as eliminates the use of a flushing wand. Just my $0.02....

And a good 2 cents it is. I've toyed with the idea for years about assembling a drain for my 10 gallon Atwood but when I saw the crud come out from a free drain there was no way I'm putting a smaller drain on it. I just deal with the little plastic drain plug and remove it with a pair of pliers and let it flow. I do this after every trip and also siphon the excess water from the heater as well. Do what you must but if you want the water heater to last, let it go.

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Dumb question, but my plug has the anode rod to help reduce corrosion. Is it ok to remove this?

Chris, If you have an Atwood water heater you don't need the anode due to the aluminum tank (it won't corrode). If you have a Suburban water heater, you need the anode rod due to the steel tank and you want to prevent tank corrosion. ... Jim

[Rmgrose]

I have a 12 gallon Suburban WH with a steel tank and anode. Because I like to drain the tank between trips(might be a month or more) I wanted an easier way. I got a galvanized 3/4" pipe nipple and tee, then plastic 3/4" to garden hose fitting and shutoff valve for a garden hose. The anode goes straight thru the tee/nipple into the tank and the garden hose fitting is to the side where I can attach a small hose. I have good flow when draining. This also brings my anode out far enough to easily get a wrench on it to check it. I seen my local hardware store is now selling stainless steel pipe fittings, not sure if it would be worthwhile to upgrade.

[viking42]

When draining hot water tank, open the pressure relief valve and it will drain a lot faster and will flush the tank better

[skids]

Originally Posted by viking42

When draining hot water tank, open the pressure relief valve and it will drain a lot faster and will flush the tank better

You can alternatively open the kitchen sink hotwater valve.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by skids

You can alternatively open the kitchen sink hotwater valve.

That's exactly what I do, and it drains quickly.

I'm not a fan of monkeying around with the pressure relief valve. It's a too important fail safe.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

That's exactly what I do, and it drains quickly.

I'm not a fan of monkeying around with the pressure relief valve. It's a too important fail safe.

My WH is on the left side of the RV, so then I have to walk all the way around to the door on the other side, open the door, the go into the kitchen to open the faucet, then walk back outside to reinstall the plug. My way I remove the plug, open the PR valve and try not to get wet...

Actually I agree with your statement about the PR valve being important, and the metal handle on the valve is pretty flimsy, so I will do it your way from now on. The things I learn on this forum....

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

I'm not a fan of monkeying around with the pressure relief valve. It's a too important fail safe.

Excercising the pressure relief valve every now and then is a good thing. Same as in your home.