Water heater mystery?

[motonut_1]

You did say it was a new unit. You could take it back to the dealership and ask them to trace and fix the issue. It's been my experience with any new RV, there's always lots of construction "crap" that's left in the unit which the dealer cleans up. Since this only effects the hot water side, I'm guessing the problem is crap in the water heater, or in the hot water line out of the heater.

[serfas01]

Our water heater did the same thing. Turned out to be a check valve on the back of the water heater in the hot water out line. Ours was plastic and I got a bronze one to replace it. Works fine ever since. Ours is a 2016 FLSA.

[mbell5263]

This sure sounds like they routed the hose in a strange way and when the hot water flows through it, the hose softens and kinks. Clearly, you have water in the tank. I believe you indicated water pressure is fine even from the hot water side if the water has not heated yet. Sounds like a line off the heater itself since it happens at all spigots.

[Pop#1]

I was pretty sure I had identified the issue but did not want to touch it in case I messed it up. So I booked it in for warranty work and they fixed it.

[mbell5263]

What was it?

[Farmboy98922]

Turn the valve the other way

[Rock]

Had the same issue on mine. Either work or a trickle. Mine was brass and still failed.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by 10yearsbehind

My opinion, there should not be a check valve at all, without an expansion tank downstream of the check valve. When water gets hot it expands and increases pressure. The water needs a place to go. It goes back to the supply side (cold side) but it does not heat the entire cold supply because incoming pressure is pushing against it. When a check valve is installed an expansion tank must be installed for the water to go. Otherwise, the relief valve will drip, typically.



I realize many models likely have a check valve but I don’t see a reason for it. Just like a home, no check on the water heater. Sometimes a closed loop is created such as a backflow prevention device on the water service or a booster pump on the water service (which requires a check valve so you don’t boost the entire town, a well has a check valve already and an expansion tank). Again, this requires an expansion tank on the cold side downstream of the check.



So I suggest to eliminate the check valve.

Mine doesn't have any check valves.

[Tony from NJ]

Open the exterior compartment. With a pair of gloves on, crack open very slowly your bypass/blowoff valve. You’ll hear air come out, along with hot water. Once you have heavy water flow, the air will be gone. This happens to us when we open almost every year.

Good luck!

[Loboclone]

Same thing happened to me last year. There is a check valve behind water heater. Jay I was clueless as usual but replaced it and all good

[Darkzell]

Ran into the same issue on mine. Turned out it was the one way check valve was causing it. I have a 2020 Eagle HT 29.5BHDS. Had to replace the plastic check valve with a brass check valve. When you have the docking station with the one valve to turn to bypass the water heater then it uses a one way check valve on the hot water outlet on the tank
Attached two photos. One of the plastic check valve that I replaced. One of the brass check valve that replaced it. Added all that tubing so the brass wasn’t touching the aluminum tank.

[dennygjr]

I had the same problem with my 2020 Eagle 332 CBOK. It’s the cheap plastic check valve on the tank. Replace it with a brass one for about $10 from Amazo, problem sliced. The plastic valve heats up, expands and does not open properly causing low flow.

[Leon]

The hot water tank pressure relief valve could be relieving pressure but you might see dripping below the tank sometimes not plainly visible.So this problem occurs wether your using water from supply tank or city water. Otherwise hot water lines are it’s plugged somewhere

[Buddyboy1954]

Originally Posted by kevysinc

I would think the check valve should be on the cold water inlet to the tank

The check valve is on the hot line leaving the water heater,just changed mine,I bought a new one on amazon,about $10.My hot water was reduced to a trickle before replacing.

[TCNashville]

Well I guess it makes some sort of sense to put a plastic check valve in an Atwood water heater [aluminum tank] to reduce the risk of dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by TCNashville

Well I guess it makes some sort of sense to put a plastic check valve in an Atwood water heater [aluminum tank] to reduce the risk of dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion.

My attwood tank started leaking after about 3.5 years. I found it had a pinhole and had to be replaced. It seems they don't put an anode in that aluminum tank. Luckily I could replace the tank myself for about $250. I did buy an anode and install it. Hopefully it will help.

[Tucket]

I had the same problem, it was the check valve on back of water heater, should be under warranty

[chabunga]

Originally Posted by Spower

Good suggestions, I will try them....Yes once the water heater is off and cools a little bit pressure it back.

While we’re shooting in the dark, after the WH cools, lift your pressure relief valve to let air out. You could have some type of “air lock”

[Spower]

This was post #59 on 6/6.......

YES!!!! Replaced the puney plastic check valve that seemed ok, with a new brass check valve. Fired up the water heater.....so far so good, I have full pressure!!!
Yahooooo!!!!

[RichR]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Here's another long-shot: Perhaps the WH is too full? I recall reading another post where the user was having trouble with the water heater. He said that he drained some water out of the tank to give it a "head" (pocket of air in the top of the tank to allow for expansion), and was back in business.

That's what my operator manual says to do. It would be best to check yours to see if it says that. There is a simple procedure for doing it.