water heater only heating water to warm

lciancola · 05-16-2011, 08:24 AM

I have an 2009 Jayco jayflight g2, still in warranty, water heater turns on heats water to warm not hot, then shuts off, will come back on the heat water again to luke warm once you use up the luke warm water. Any thoughts?

**FPM III** · 05-16-2011, 09:17 AM

Just a guess... could the valve on the pipe that runs between the hot and cold water lines of your HWT bypass be open instead of closed? It's an easy fix if it is... close it. You should have hot water a plenty once this is done.

lciancola · 05-16-2011, 09:44 AM

Thats exactly what it was, were still a little new at this, Thanks so much for you help.

hammerdown · 05-16-2011, 10:02 AM

Here's a web site that is very helpful.

http://www.ducktec.com/waterheater-t...-shooting.html

Hutashe · 05-17-2011, 09:37 PM

Been there, done that.... Was not happy about cool showers, but am a happy camper now!

cekkk · 05-18-2011, 02:54 PM

To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding. I had the same problem the first night we used the heater. Read the instruction manual and learned the untempered hot water is dangerously hot. The manual said to open the valve and the ten gallon heater would give 16 gallons of usable warm water. In my case it was delivered fully open and the problem was water to cool for a comfortable shower. Closing it completely made it too hot. I decided on my own to crack the valve open just a bit. Life in the shower is now good and we probably have 12 or 13 usable gallons. If you have a six gallon heater it would be more helpful to cool it a bit.

villain2000 · 05-18-2011, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cekkk+

To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding. I had the same problem the first night we used the heater. Read the instruction manual and learned the untempered hot water is dangerously hot. The manual said to open the valve and the ten gallon heater would give 16 gallons of usable warm water. In my case it was delivered fully open and the problem was water to cool for a comfortable shower. Closing it completely made it too hot. I decided on my own to crack the valve open just a bit. Life in the shower is now good and we probably have 12 or 13 usable gallons. If you have a six gallon heater it would be more helpful to cool it a bit.

Just a thought, but woiudnt it be the same thing to just use less hot water at the faucet? I like being able to make my hot cup of tea right at the faucet..... ; - )

hammerdown · 05-18-2011, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cekkk+

To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding.

WOW! I thought I new the hot water system pretty well but I don't know what a mixing value is.

**FPM III** · 05-18-2011, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerdown

WOW! I thought I new the hot water system pretty well but I don't know what a mixing value is.

When used in the manner that cekkk+ is using the HWT bypass valve, it is a mixing valve. However, I don't see any real advantage to mixing cold water at the tank as opposed to mixing cold water at the faucet other than reducing the possibility of being scalded. Of course, If you have small children, tempering the hot water before it reaches the faucet would be safer for them. I'm also a little puzzled on how you can make your hot water last longer by mixing it at the tank's outlet rather than at the faucet. While I realize that 150 degree hot water would lose more heat traveling from the HWT to a faucet than 100 degree water, the distance of travel is usually so short that heat loss at either temperature would be negligible.

In our TT, the cat's "self cleaning" so she doesn't use any hot water and we're all adults. So our hot water is H-O-T.

barrelslime · 05-19-2011, 07:27 AM

Is it the same using electric or gas????? If so its a setting problem on the heater, or the bi-pass valuve cracked open.

cekkk · 05-22-2011, 10:32 AM

If I recall right, scalding was the issue in the manual. I really would go get it and check my facts, but it's in the trailer, which is at a dealer who's working on the duct work problem I brought up elsewhere. And one of many reasons we chose this model was the ten gallon WH, allowing both me and DW to take long, hot showers after a day of rain and sleet on the ATVs. The six gallon in the old toy hauler made for quick showers in order to save some for the next person - always me!

dawnnye · 04-17-2016, 12:47 AM

I am having same problem. But confused which one is the mixer valve. Black or red on hot water tank our little black one under kitchen sink connecting two tubes?

tbwill · 04-17-2016, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dawnnye

I am having same problem. But confused which one is the mixer valve. Black or red on hot water tank our little black one under kitchen sink connecting two tubes?

The valve they are talking about is the bypass valve at the water heater used when winterizing. It is on a short piece of piping that connects the cold intake to the water heater and the hot water line coming from the water heater. Open it slightly to let cold water bleed into the hot water coming from the water heater.
The valve arrangement should be located right at the water heater, might have to remove an access panel with a screwdriver to get access, that's what I had to do on a 27RLS.

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