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Old 05-16-2011, 09:24 AM   #1
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water heater only heating water to warm

I have an 2009 Jayco jayflight g2, still in warranty, water heater turns on heats water to warm not hot, then shuts off, will come back on the heat water again to luke warm once you use up the luke warm water. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:17 AM   #2
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Just a guess... could the valve on the pipe that runs between the hot and cold water lines of your HWT bypass be open instead of closed? It's an easy fix if it is... close it. You should have hot water a plenty once this is done.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:44 AM   #3
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Thats exactly what it was, were still a little new at this, Thanks so much for you help.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:02 AM   #4
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Here's a web site that is very helpful.

http://www.ducktec.com/waterheater-t...-shooting.html
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:37 PM   #5
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Been there, done that.... Was not happy about cool showers, but am a happy camper now!
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:54 PM   #6
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To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding. I had the same problem the first night we used the heater. Read the instruction manual and learned the untempered hot water is dangerously hot. The manual said to open the valve and the ten gallon heater would give 16 gallons of usable warm water. In my case it was delivered fully open and the problem was water to cool for a comfortable shower. Closing it completely made it too hot. I decided on my own to crack the valve open just a bit. Life in the shower is now good and we probably have 12 or 13 usable gallons. If you have a six gallon heater it would be more helpful to cool it a bit.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cekkk+ View Post
To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding. I had the same problem the first night we used the heater. Read the instruction manual and learned the untempered hot water is dangerously hot. The manual said to open the valve and the ten gallon heater would give 16 gallons of usable warm water. In my case it was delivered fully open and the problem was water to cool for a comfortable shower. Closing it completely made it too hot. I decided on my own to crack the valve open just a bit. Life in the shower is now good and we probably have 12 or 13 usable gallons. If you have a six gallon heater it would be more helpful to cool it a bit.
Just a thought, but woiudnt it be the same thing to just use less hot water at the faucet? I like being able to make my hot cup of tea right at the faucet..... ; - )
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cekkk+ View Post
To follow up on FTM, if you crack that mixing valve a bit you can temper the temperature at the hot water faucet so that it is not scalding.

WOW! I thought I new the hot water system pretty well but I don't know what a mixing value is.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:47 PM   #9
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WOW! I thought I new the hot water system pretty well but I don't know what a mixing value is.
When used in the manner that cekkk+ is using the HWT bypass valve, it is a mixing valve. However, I don't see any real advantage to mixing cold water at the tank as opposed to mixing cold water at the faucet other than reducing the possibility of being scalded. Of course, If you have small children, tempering the hot water before it reaches the faucet would be safer for them. I'm also a little puzzled on how you can make your hot water last longer by mixing it at the tank's outlet rather than at the faucet. While I realize that 150 degree hot water would lose more heat traveling from the HWT to a faucet than 100 degree water, the distance of travel is usually so short that heat loss at either temperature would be negligible.

In our TT, the cat's "self cleaning" so she doesn't use any hot water and we're all adults. So our hot water is H-O-T.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:27 AM   #10
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Is it the same using electric or gas????? If so its a setting problem on the heater, or the bi-pass valuve cracked open.
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