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Old 12-19-2015, 11:35 AM   #11
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This one of those problems with many solutions. Just get it done however you like. Those petcock type solutions will need to be removed from tine to time to allow scale and other stuff in the tank to get out. I have used several methods that all worked on the Atwoods.

On my latest Jayco with the anode rod I take it out and clean the tank often because it doubles as the drain.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:26 PM   #12
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Wow, that's way more feedback than I expected! I love this place!

I found a local rv shop and bought a couple of nylon plugs. I had stopped at Home Depot first, but they didn't have anything appropriate.

I also bought a brass plug... Not sure if I'm going to use it or not. For now I'll just put a nylon plug in.

I was a bit scatter-brained while I was in the rv shop - an over-priced atrocious place that looked like a hoarders dream house, even smelled like dogs to make the experience more authentic. The shop-keeper was kind enough, which is good, as you'd probably not find anything in that place without him anyway. I honestly just wanted to get out of there quickly, and so wasn't making logical decisions, lol!

Anyhow, even if I don't use the brass one, I'm only out $7.

Oh for a camping world nearby...
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Old 12-19-2015, 08:04 PM   #13
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Anyhow, even if I don't use the brass one, I'm only out $7.

Oh for a camping world nearby...
If you went to Camping world, you'd be out $14, but it probably would've smelled better. Any/most local hardware stores carry that plug for <$1.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:50 AM   #14
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If you are incapable of carefully threading a plug, brass or otherwise, then by all means go with the nylon one. If you are at all DYI inclined and can handle the process with careful 2 finger caution, the install of the brass / toggle plug is both simple and completely safe. And again, once installed all you have to do to drain the WH is to turn [again with 2 fingers] the toggle. No awkward use of a tool to reach the plug and loosen it and no risk of damage to the WH parts.

Never sure why folks regress to Old School beliefs on things like this when practical experience over long periods of times don't support the myths. WH manufacturers use nylon because it is cheaper not because it is better.
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:18 PM   #15
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You should NEVER replace your nylon water heater plug with a Brass or metal plug. It is NYLON for safety. The Nylon plug acts as a secondary relief valve in case your actual relief valve fails. It is made to burst out in case of a relief valve failure. So your hot water heater does not burst.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:39 PM   #16
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This one of those problems with many solutions. Just get it done however you like. Those petcock type solutions will need to be removed from tine to time to allow scale and other stuff in the tank to get out. I have used several methods that all worked on the Atwoods.

On my latest Jayco with the anode rod I take it out and clean the tank often because it doubles as the drain.
Norty, you have an annode? Is it a Suburban WH? I thought Attwood's were all aluminum.

My Atwood came with a plastic plug, I find replacements at the big box hardware stores and keep at least one as a spare. Haven't used Teflon tape yet but have a roll.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:12 AM   #17
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Norty, you have an annode? Is it a Suburban WH? I thought Attwood's were all aluminum.
Yes my 2011 Eagle has a Suburban WH, which has a Anode rod in the drain hole for tank protection from electrolysis corrosion.

I have had 3 other rvs, maybe 4 with the Atwood.

Never had any real problems with any of them.
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:01 AM   #18
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This is what I did to my nylon plug, just so it's easy to drain.. Works 100% with no leaks.
Where did you find the nylon plug with petcock valve? I prefer the petcock because unscrewing that nylon plug a half-dozen times each year is a PITA! I have a brass one that I used in the HW heater on my Outback for 8 years, with no corrosion problems. But many here warn against it. And doing some research online, there is information that supports the dissimilar metals brass/aluminum can create the electrolysis corrosion problem.

Maybe I had no corrosion problems because I used plenty of Teflon tape?
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:14 AM   #19
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I think he mentioned he drilled and tapped it himself.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:00 AM   #20
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NYLON drain plug is for safety. Acts as secondary relief if your primary relief valve fails. Ask your RV repair shop. It should remain NYLON. I would be less concerned about electrolysis then a water tank rupturing. I have seen a ruptured tank. Lucky no on was close to it. Then there is all the unnecessary water damage to your camper.
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