Water heater plug...

[ecksdude]

Finally getting some trailer time this weekend.

A few weeks ago when the weather was cooler I emptied the water heater and used compressed air to blow all the lines out.

I guess I did a very poor job of putting the water heater plug back because when I hooked up tonight, it was spraying out water.

I tried to seat it better, but the threads on the nylon plug are stripped.

So for now I jammed it in as tight as I could which has minimized the leak to a drip, but it needs replacement.

Any clues on an upgraded plug at ace hardware or Home Depot? I'll be looking in the morning, but not really wanting another nylon plug...

[tnchuck100]

I would recommend staying with the nylon plug. They are not expensive so keeping a spare or two on hand is not a problem.

You do not want a metal plug as it will cause corrosion due to electrolysis when two dissimilar metals are in contact.

Obviously if yours is stripped it will need to be replaced. I always use Teflon thread tape when re-installing the plug.

[pawpaw]

You can get a new plug at any Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc. It's just a standard pipe thread (1/2" I think) and you'll usually find it in the plumbing section.

[TxTwoSome]

Just a suggestion but I would stay with the Nylon plugs as previously mentioned.

Just think if it was the heater not the plug that was cross threaded or stripped that would be a MUCH bigger problem.

[dalebra]

Originally Posted by tnchuck100

I would recommend staying with the nylon plug. They are not expensive so keeping a spare or two on hand is not a problem.

You do not want a metal plug as it will cause corrosion due to electrolysis when two dissimilar metals are in contact.

Obviously if yours is stripped it will need to be replaced. I always use Teflon thread tape when re-installing the plug.

X2!

[norty1]

X3 many reasons not to use a metal plug. Many cross thread them. Just be careful and if you ruin it, try another. It is a much worse problem to get a metal plug cross threaded and mess up the tank.

[Skaling]

This is what I did to my nylon plug, just so it's easy to drain.. Works 100% with no leaks.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by norty1

X3 many reasons not to use a metal plug. Many cross thread them. Just be careful and if you ruin it try another. It is a much worse problem to get a metal plug cross threaded and mess up the tank.

Do not agree and here is why. I purchased a brass plug with toggle valve AND CAREFULLY installed it so as to NOT cross thread it. Once installed there is no reason to remove it, as all you have to do to drain the unit is unscrew the toggle. I have used one of the readily available brass RV drain plugs for over 10 years on 3 TT's with out a single problem or issue. Use a nylon one if you think best, but be prepared to scrape your knuckles each time.

[Jagiven]

I have a brass bushing in mine, with a short braided hose, with a 1/4 turn bathroom valve on the end. I never take the plug out anymore. Very easy to drain.

I spoke with the metallugist at work before I did it. He stated in this application it was not an issue. He told me why, just do not recall.

[Seann45]

Be glad it was nylon..if you had cross threaded a metal one you might be replacing the water heater..

[norty1]

This one of those problems with many solutions. Just get it done however you like. Those petcock type solutions will need to be removed from tine to time to allow scale and other stuff in the tank to get out. I have used several methods that all worked on the Atwoods.

On my latest Jayco with the anode rod I take it out and clean the tank often because it doubles as the drain.

[ecksdude]

Wow, that's way more feedback than I expected! I love this place!

I found a local rv shop and bought a couple of nylon plugs. I had stopped at Home Depot first, but they didn't have anything appropriate.

I also bought a brass plug... Not sure if I'm going to use it or not. For now I'll just put a nylon plug in.

I was a bit scatter-brained while I was in the rv shop - an over-priced atrocious place that looked like a hoarders dream house, even smelled like dogs to make the experience more authentic. The shop-keeper was kind enough, which is good, as you'd probably not find anything in that place without him anyway. I honestly just wanted to get out of there quickly, and so wasn't making logical decisions, lol!

Anyhow, even if I don't use the brass one, I'm only out $7.

Oh for a camping world nearby...

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by ecksdude

Anyhow, even if I don't use the brass one, I'm only out $7.

Oh for a camping world nearby...

If you went to Camping world, you'd be out $14, but it probably would've smelled better. Any/most local hardware stores carry that plug for <$1.

[Bassdogs]

If you are incapable of carefully threading a plug, brass or otherwise, then by all means go with the nylon one. If you are at all DYI inclined and can handle the process with careful 2 finger caution, the install of the brass / toggle plug is both simple and completely safe. And again, once installed all you have to do to drain the WH is to turn [again with 2 fingers] the toggle. No awkward use of a tool to reach the plug and loosen it and no risk of damage to the WH parts.

Never sure why folks regress to Old School beliefs on things like this when practical experience over long periods of times don't support the myths. WH manufacturers use nylon because it is cheaper not because it is better.

[Donedroolin]

You should NEVER replace your nylon water heater plug with a Brass or metal plug. It is NYLON for safety. The Nylon plug acts as a secondary relief valve in case your actual relief valve fails. It is made to burst out in case of a relief valve failure. So your hot water heater does not burst.

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by norty1

This one of those problems with many solutions. Just get it done however you like. Those petcock type solutions will need to be removed from tine to time to allow scale and other stuff in the tank to get out. I have used several methods that all worked on the Atwoods.

On my latest Jayco with the anode rod I take it out and clean the tank often because it doubles as the drain.

Norty, you have an annode? Is it a Suburban WH? I thought Attwood's were all aluminum.

My Atwood came with a plastic plug, I find replacements at the big box hardware stores and keep at least one as a spare. Haven't used Teflon tape yet but have a roll.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

Norty, you have an annode? Is it a Suburban WH? I thought Attwood's were all aluminum.

Yes my 2011 Eagle has a Suburban WH, which has a Anode rod in the drain hole for tank protection from electrolysis corrosion.

I have had 3 other rvs, maybe 4 with the Atwood.

Never had any real problems with any of them.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by Skaling

This is what I did to my nylon plug, just so it's easy to drain.. Works 100% with no leaks.

Where did you find the nylon plug with petcock valve? I prefer the petcock because unscrewing that nylon plug a half-dozen times each year is a PITA! I have a brass one that I used in the HW heater on my Outback for 8 years, with no corrosion problems. But many here warn against it. And doing some research online, there is information that supports the dissimilar metals brass/aluminum can create the electrolysis corrosion problem.

Maybe I had no corrosion problems because I used plenty of Teflon tape?

[norty1]

I think he mentioned he drilled and tapped it himself.

[Donedroolin]

NYLON drain plug is for safety. Acts as secondary relief if your primary relief valve fails. Ask your RV repair shop. It should remain NYLON. I would be less concerned about electrolysis then a water tank rupturing. I have seen a ruptured tank. Lucky no on was close to it. Then there is all the unnecessary water damage to your camper.