Water heater pressure valve

[Claytonbwn]

Hi All, I just want to share a very quick fix to this just in case somebody else has the issue I had today.

Issue: when the water heater turns on there would be a steady dripping from the pressure valve. Forming a large pool of water on the ground and getting the compartment wet.

Cause: What happens is when the valve is opened it may not always shut all the way on its own, thus causing the dripping.

Resolution: take a hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the valve a few times. This will gently reset the valve and it close again.

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[Swampy]

The drip from the temperature/pressure relief valve is normally caused when the captive air bubble in the tank is lost and the heated water has no cushion in which it can expand. All you need to do when this happens is to turn the water supply off, vent the pressure from the tank, and let some air into the tank. Let the TP relief valve snap closed. Turn the water back on and the dripping should be finished until the captive air is lost again. Check the troubleshooting guide for the water heater you have. The proceedure is also outlined there........ Swampy

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[2nOZ]

Glad to see this post. I have experienced this intermittently on the last two trips. It doesn't happen everyday but every once in a while. I was going to take it into the dealer to have the valve replaced but I'll try the recommended fix first. Good info. Thanks.

[Skwidward]

Originally Posted by Swampy

... vent the pressure from the tank, and let some air into the tank.

EDIT: No worries. I figured it out. 😬

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by Skwidward

Just to clarify, when you say vent the pressure from the tank, you mean open the pressure release valve on the water tank, right?

Silly question, but what happens then? Does hot water come shooting out? So I then have to close it, or does it snap shut by itself?

Thanks

Skwidward, When you crack the valve open with the supply water off and de-pressurized, you will just release the captive hot water in the tank above the PT valve. So, yes expect it to drain some hot water out, maybe as much as a pint, then just snap the PT valve lever back closed and the valve should close and the drip should be stopped when you turn the water source back on to pressurize the system. Good Camping ..... Swampy

[Skwidward]

Originally Posted by Swampy

Skwidward, When you crack the valve open with the supply water off and de-pressurized, you will just release the captive hot water in the tank above the PT valve. So, yes expect it to drain some hot water out, maybe as much as a pint, then just snap the PT valve lever back closed and the valve should close and the drip should be stopped when you turn the water source back on to pressurize the system. Good Camping ..... Swampy

Thank you, Sir. Just did it, and it was merely a dribble that came out.

Since we’re here, I’m actually considering bypassing my water heater completely (and maybe even removing it). Do you think it would cause problems for the water pump having all the pex tubing “going nowhere,” like lots of “dead ends”?

[parallax]

Thank you. Mine has been leaking since new. LOL. May be time to fix it.

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by Skwidward

Thank you, Sir. Just did it, and it was merely a dribble that came out.

Since we’re here, I’m actually considering bypassing my water heater completely (and maybe even removing it). Do you think it would cause problems for the water pump having all the pex tubing “going nowhere,” like lots of “dead ends”?

If you bypass the WH, it will make no difference to the water pump. If you intend to remove the WH, I would suggest you make sure the breaker is off going to the WH before you start, and the propane is likewise off. You will need to cap & insullate the 120V and the 12V electric wires once disconnected and likewise you will need to cap the propane line feeding the WH. (Be sure to check for gas leaks since this will now have the capped gas line on the inside of your TT and any gas leak could be fatal if the gas detector fails.) And, once the WH is removed, you will need to make sure the bypass valves remain in by-pass mode ... otherwise you could get some major water damage by someone turning on both H & C faucets at the same time...

Good luck with the mods ....... Swampy

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by Claytonbwn

Hi All, I just want to share a very quick fix to this just in case somebody else has the issue I had today.

Issue: when the water heater turns on there would be a steady dripping from the pressure valve. Forming a large pool of water on the ground and getting the compartment wet.

Cause: What happens is when the valve is opened it may not always shut all the way on its own, thus causing the dripping.

Resolution: take a hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the valve a few times. This will gently reset the valve and it close again.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

I’ve had the same experience and the hammer tap is the solution. The “captive air” scenario doesn’t make sense to me. If it drips when there’s no air bubble it will slowly leak air until there’s no air bubble and begin to drip again. Tap with the hammer, if “no joy”, replace.