Water Heater Threads bad?

[jsallman1]

I have already called my dealer and they are looking into a warranty issue, but this week I finally flushed all the water tanks on our new trailer. The water heater plug was in there a bit crooked with sealant around it from the factory, I removed it to drain the heater, and the metal threads on the water heater tank look very bad. The nylon plug actually looked alright. I was able to get it back in, but it cross threaded and of course drips. I have procured 2 new plugs and will try replacing it tomorrow (camping now) but I am guessing the new ones will crossthread as well. My questions are.

1.) has anyone had a new trailer that had this issue with the metal threads looking bad and the plug not going in easily at all

2.) are the nylon plugs a 1 use thing or when you drain it can you generally reuse the plug?

3.) has ANYONE figured out a good way to get this thing in and out (the dealer advised every time I camp I need to drain it) but its a real pain to get most tools behind the gas line blocking the plug.

[Tunce the traveler]

My original nylon plug was in use for 3 years and never leaked.

[SmokerBill]

If you could find the right size tap the threads in the WH could be cleaned up. I'd be satisfied with that fix, I believe.

[edatlanta]

I don't know how you could mess up metal threads with a nylon plug? I would suspect the threads weren't cut right at the factory. I agree they might be able to be cleaned up with the right tap.

[SkyBound]

I drain my water heater each time I am done camping, but I don't remove the nylon plug. When your low point drains are pulled, open up the pressure relief valve on the water heater by lifting the spring loaded tab until it is inline with the valve. This will allow air into the heater and let the water escape, draining out your low points. It won't get 100% of the water out, but most of it will be gone. It's enough to not be an issue and not get that stinky water smell that people complain about when they don't drain it and it sits.

[RedHorse1]

If it sits idle for more than a month I'd drain. Plugs are reusable but it's good to have spares. I saw a specialized wrench at CW for the plug but I use a socket with an extension. If the threads are messed up it probably came that way from the factory. The drain does not point straight out but has a bit of a down angle. I hate drips. Good luck!

[joe in calif]

When you drain it what if any do you need to put on the plug when you reinstall it?
Will Plumbers putty work?

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by joe in calif

When you drain it what if any do you need to put on the plug when you reinstall it?
Will Plumbers putty work?

I coat mine with a little pipe dope. Probably not necessary but I'm still on my original plug after 3 years with no leaks and we drain after every trip.

[mike837go]

If the threads are fouled, you will never get a good seal.


Carefully using the correct tap (pipe taps are tapered) to straighten and dig deeper into the drain collar, probably will fix the problem for the remaining life of your water heater.


However, if it is still under warrantee, get the dealer to replace the tank. There is no good reason to live with this.

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by joe in calif

When you drain it what if any do you need to put on the plug when you reinstall it?
Will Plumbers putty work?

I think there was plumbers putty on it from the factory. I put it back in without anything. I carry spares and wind up replacing it every couple of years or so. I recall posters saying they use Teflon tape.

[jerseyteamster]

Had the same issue on my brand new 195RB the nylon plug was cross threaded into the steel/brass threads, right from the factory! bought a new BRASS plug,with some teflon tape on it,and it went in just fine.NO LEAKS.

[Iraqvet05]

I have used the same nylon plug for 2 years now. I don't drain the WH ever time we camp but I do wrap it a few times with teflon tape...the good thick kind, not the cheap tape WalMart carries. I put a wobble extension right off the socket to get under the gas tube that covers the plug.

[Camper_bob]

I'm also using the original plug that came with mine. Almost two years old now, and no leaks. The head of the plug is a little bit chewed up from where I was trying to use a channel-lok to get it off, but now I use a socket with an extension. It reaches up under the heater tube just fine, and I've never had to use a wobble. I just tighten it by hand to get the threads started and then put the wrench on and send it home.

I have never used tape, and I also keep two extras in the trailer if the original ever goes bad.

I can't imagine the nylon plug could harm the threads, so I would be wondering how the threads got fouled in the first place.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by mike837go

If the threads are fouled, you will never get a good seal.


Carefully using the correct tap (pipe taps are tapered) to straighten and dig deeper into the drain collar, probably will fix the problem for the remaining life of your water heater.


However, if it is still under warrantee, get the dealer to replace the tank. There is no good reason to live with this.

I agree. If you still have warranty, the heater was defective from the factory and should be replaced. Mine had plenty of pipe thread sealant (we used to call pipe dope). You might try that. I use teflon tape on mine when I replace it and it has never leaked.

Also, the threads on the nylon plugs are tapered a bit, so the further you tighten, the better the seal. That may help you get through your trip, along with some good sealant.

[mike837go]

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

...snip...

Also, the threads on the nylon plugs are tapered a bit, so the further you tighten, the better the seal. ...

Reminder: the tapered hole and tapered plug system only work when they are lined up. Any cross threading and no matter how much you tighten, it will never seal properly.

A new plug (with its threads factory fresh) will definitly help in the short term.

[jsallman1]

Thank you all. A new plug did go in with some very careful starting, it tried to crossthread a few times but I was able to stop it in time and get a good seal.

I got some pictures and contacted my dealer (not the easiest thing to photograph BTW), hoping they will just do a replacement. The outside of the threads are pretty bare and the hole itself almost looks tapered, definitely think it was a factory mess-up.

[Crabman]

As for the tools to use to remove/install the plug I use a 15/16" socket with extension Works quite well.

[dpi7800]

As a person who has worked as a plumber for 17 years do not use the T&P valve on the water heater to vent to drain. These are meant as disposable one time use items, hence why they are so cheap and plumbers never remove the old T&P and place into a new water heater. I learned the hard way as a new young apprentice plumber popping the T&P to bleed pressure or vent.

Also some tips when it comes to Teflon tape on plastic male fittings. I recommend not to, and use pipe dope instead of tape. I rarely use tape on plastic male fittings for a couple reasons. First if you are not mindful of placement and amount of tape used you can easily cross thread a male fitting. Second if you use too much you can also split the female fitting you are threading into depending on the material, plastic and aluminum split relatively easily compared to steel, copper or steel.

Just some thoughts from a person who has made a living doing it.

[dpi7800]

Almost forgot, if you chase the threads in the heater you will most likely need a 3/4 IPS tap. IPS is iron pipe size.

[BigJohnD]

Here's what we did after getting tired of fooling with the plugs. Nylon nipple and sink hose with pex valve on the end. Has worked well. I like this better as I can pull the hose out and drain it into a bucket if the rig is backed into the shop.