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Old 06-23-2015, 01:06 PM   #21
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I agree Cosmik. I don't understand the overflow with these FW tanks. I had an Airstream 2006 model with only a breather at the fill inlet. No overflow tubes. never had any problems. The only thing I can figure is the design of the tank may cause it to bulge so air needs to escape quickly, or something like that.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:19 PM   #22
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Hey now...I'll take Ellie Mae.

Just sayin..
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:21 PM   #23
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Hey now...I'll take Ellie Mae.

Just sayin..
Which one, Donna or Erika?
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:32 PM   #24
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Donna!!!
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:57 PM   #25
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are you sure?
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:10 PM   #26
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Here's what I did. A couple of plastic garden hose fittings (1/2") and matching caps. I leave them on when filling the tank, until the water runs out of the filler. Then I remove the caps. The water gushes out at first, but quickly slows to a trickle. I put the caps back on and the monitor panel still reads full. Doing it this way, it looks like the tank is full but not over-full, and won't drain itself during travel.



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Old 06-23-2015, 10:18 PM   #27
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Our 2015 28BHBE had the same problem. Would siphon out over 1/2 tank of water in 208 miles. Water would pour out of overflows in every right turn as the drains are on road side of TT under the slide.

I put a pair of elbows on the tubes and clear tubing extended across to curb side of unit and installed shutoff valves on the ends and located them beside FW tank drain. This way they are directly below the fresh water fill port, and i do not have to crawl under TT to open/close the little tap when filling tank.

I have overfilled the tank even with the overflow drain valves open, and water also comes out the vent tube and fill port. (it takes a long time to drain 80 gal)

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Old 06-24-2015, 05:21 AM   #28
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are you sure?
Um..nevermind. :(
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:13 AM   #29
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Here is a link to another thread that deals with this extensively.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...es-3503-6.html
You can skip the first 4 or 5 pages, as they contain mostly people refuting the OP's assertion that the tanks lose water and siphon. Those of us that have/had this problem know it is true! The last several pages discuss solutions.

A couple things to remember to do after you have installed valves or clamps on the overflow tubes:
1. ALWAYS have the valves open while you are filling. On several Jayco models, especially those with 90+ gallon capacity, there are TWO fresh water tanks. The gravity fill goes into the first tank, and a set of hoses between the tanks equalizes the water level. But only the first tank has a dedicated vent to allow air to expel as the tank fills with water. The second tank uses the overflow tube as an air vent. Once your tank is filled and water begins to flow from the overflow, that is the time to stop filling and close the valve, while you travel.
2. Similarly, when you arrive at your site, it is important to RE-OPEN the valve on your overflow. Again, it is that second FW tank that needs to get air as your water pump draws water from your tanks. Because the tanks are full, the hoses between the two tanks are filled with water and air cannot get to the second tank other than via the overflow. It probably will not actually hurt anything, but I forgot to open them up recently, and when we were finally leaving our site and I did open the valve, there was a couple of minutes of gurgling, as the 2nd tank sucked in air, so I definitely had negative pressure in that 2nd tank.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:06 AM   #30
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Here is a link to another thread that deals with this extensively.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...es-3503-6.html

The gravity fill goes into the first tank, and a set of hoses between the tanks equalizes the water level. But only the first tank has a dedicated vent to allow air to expel as the tank fills with water. The second tank uses the overflow tube as an air vent. Once your tank is filled and water begins to flow from the overflow, that is the time to stop filling and close the valve, while you travel.
I have the 2 tanks you speak of with my advertised 86 gallon capacity but I have 2 overflow vent tubes. I assumed 1 for each tank?
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:17 AM   #31
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I have the 2 tanks you speak of with my advertised 86 gallon capacity but I have 2 overflow vent tubes. I assumed 1 for each tank?
+1

I have 2 separate and distinct overflow hoses. One goes to each tank, and when the tanks are full, water comes out of BOTH tubes for what I consider to be a long time after I've stopped filling. And that's just sitting in the driveway not moving...

Typically during travel, I only fill to about 1/3 tank (measured and timed to be 25 gals actually, used for "incidentals" on the road), and I get no siphoning that I'm aware of at that level.

On a side note, my problem is that my water pump's pick up hose must be curled up or something because I need to have A LOT (IMO) of water in the tanks for the pump to pick up the water. Seems to me the pickup hose should be laying flat against he bottom of the tank... It hasn't become enough of an issue yet for me to get crazy about fixing it.
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:38 AM   #32
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snip...
when you arrive at your site, it is important to RE-OPEN the valve on your overflow. Again, it is that second FW tank that needs to get air as your water pump draws water from your tanks. Because the tanks are full, the hoses between the two tanks are filled with water and air cannot get to the second tank other than via the overflow. It probably will not actually hurt anything, but I forgot to open them up recently, and when we were finally leaving our site and I did open the valve, there was a couple of minutes of gurgling, as the 2nd tank sucked in air, so I definitely had negative pressure in that 2nd tank.
Thank you. You read my mind. I was going to ask about opening the overflow for venting... now I don't need to.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:57 PM   #33
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+1

(snip)

On a side note, my problem is that my water pump's pick up hose must be curled up or something because I need to have A LOT (IMO) of water in the tanks for the pump to pick up the water. Seems to me the pickup hose should be laying flat against he bottom of the tank... It hasn't become enough of an issue yet for me to get crazy about fixing it.
I do not believe there is a pickup hose inside your FW tank, and therefore it cannot be curled. There is simply an hose fitting cut into the SIDE of your FW tank and an external hose that connects from there to your FW pump.

The problem you are experiencing also results from a design flaw on the Jayco water tanks. I had a leak coming from the underbelly, so I pulled it down to find and fix the leak. That was easy - tightening a hose clamp, but I also found that the FW tanks were bulging severely between the three metal straps that held up each tank. Also I noticed that the FW pump draws from the side of the tank, not from the bottom. So here is the situation you may have. You put in 25 gallons of water, that is 12 gallons per tank (if you have 2 tanks), once they equalize. With the bulge in the tanks, much of that water is below the opening where the pump draws water. So you are hauling a bunch of water that you will NEVER have access to!

I went to Home Depot and purchased some additional thick steel strapping (matching what was already on the tanks) and added two additional supports under each water tank where the bulging occurred. If I was more industrious, I would have changed the FW pump intake's position from the side of the tank to a low point on the bottom, but I didn't want to put more holes in the tank, so I will just accept it as it is.
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:43 AM   #34
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I do not believe there is a pickup hose inside your FW tank, and therefore it cannot be curled. There is simply an hose fitting cut into the SIDE of your FW tank and an external hose that connects from there to your FW pump.

The problem you are experiencing also results from a design flaw on the Jayco water tanks. I had a leak coming from the underbelly, so I pulled it down to find and fix the leak. That was easy - tightening a hose clamp, but I also found that the FW tanks were bulging severely between the three metal straps that held up each tank. Also I noticed that the FW pump draws from the side of the tank, not from the bottom. So here is the situation you may have. You put in 25 gallons of water, that is 12 gallons per tank (if you have 2 tanks), once they equalize. With the bulge in the tanks, much of that water is below the opening where the pump draws water. So you are hauling a bunch of water that you will NEVER have access to!

I went to Home Depot and purchased some additional thick steel strapping (matching what was already on the tanks) and added two additional supports under each water tank where the bulging occurred. If I was more industrious, I would have changed the FW pump intake's position from the side of the tank to a low point on the bottom, but I didn't want to put more holes in the tank, so I will just accept it as it is.

This is good info! Thanks!

The tanks really don't bulge that much, but it is highly annoying hauling water I can't access.

I'm going to have to look again, but last time I was down there, I could identify all but one of the hoses that I could see around the tank. The only spot I cannot see is the top of the tanks. So I assumed that a pickup line went from the pump (in the cabinet immediately above the tanks) and dropped down into the top of the tank since I couldn't see any other hose going up (except for one that is definitely not the line to the pump, but I still can't tell you what it is ).

Anyway, I'm going to make a more concerted effort to find out what's going on with my tanks next time it's in the driveway.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:48 AM   #35
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On my unit, the FW drain hoses and the pump intake hose are connected.
The connection at the tank for the FW drain hose and the FW pump hose are one and the same. And the pump only draws directly from Tank 1. As it empties, the tanks equalize and water from Tank 2 tranfers by gravity to tank 1. So the height of the larger plastic hoses that equalize the two tanks is yet another factor in determining how much water remains in the tanks that cannot be utilized.

Sometimes it is better to not know all this and think that I really have 90 gallons of water available to me for use. In reality, I am guessing that I probably have somewhere around 70 gallons available for my use when all the tanks are full. Just as an aside, Jayco counts the water in your water heater as part of the total water available. In fact, while there may be 6 or 8 gallons of water in the hot water tank, that amount is NEVER available to you, because the system works on having a full and pressurized flow in your pipes. Therefore, the water tank must be full in order for you to get hot water out the other end. If your FW tank is empty, your hot water tank will still be full, but there will be no pressure to push out that last 6-8 gallons. The only way you could access it is by removing the drain plug from your hot water tank and catching it as it drains.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:16 AM   #36
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On my unit, the FW drain hoses and the pump intake hose are connected.
The connection at the tank for the FW drain hose and the FW pump hose are one and the same. ...snip
I thought this might be the case. I think you're talking about the hose I can't figure out. I wish I had taken a pic of it at the time... Trailer's in storage, so I can't go look...

Let's see if I can describe it: The bottom of tank 1 has a drain hose that runs to the valve at the LP drain for the tanks. As it runs past tank 2, there is a T and a hose running up into the trailer. I thought perhaps this was the pickup for the pump (odd as it was, I thought it was plausible). This hose has some wiggle to it, so I grabbed it and started wiggling and pulling on it. I asked DW to go look inside by the pump to see if she could see any hoses moving and she said "no". So I just said "oh well, I dunno". Maybe next time I'll ask her to move the hose while I go and look...

So here's a thought: Since we very rarely need full tanks, but we would like to have better access to the water we DO carry, I wonder if Tank 2 could/should be isolated? I bet it wouldn't be too difficult to put a valve in the equalization hoses so you can keep water from flowing into the second tank, but you could open the valve when you needed the capacity?
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:53 PM   #37
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I thought this might be the case. I think you're talking about the hose I can't figure out. I wish I had taken a pic of it at the time... Trailer's in storage, so I can't go look...

Let's see if I can describe it: The bottom of tank 1 has a drain hose that runs to the valve at the LP drain for the tanks. As it runs past tank 2, there is a T and a hose running up into the trailer. I thought perhaps this was the pickup for the pump (odd as it was, I thought it was plausible). This hose has some wiggle to it, so I grabbed it and started wiggling and pulling on it. I asked DW to go look inside by the pump to see if she could see any hoses moving and she said "no". So I just said "oh well, I dunno". Maybe next time I'll ask her to move the hose while I go and look...

So here's a thought: Since we very rarely need full tanks, but we would like to have better access to the water we DO carry, I wonder if Tank 2 could/should be isolated? I bet it wouldn't be too difficult to put a valve in the equalization hoses so you can keep water from flowing into the second tank, but you could open the valve when you needed the capacity?
Yes, I suppose that you could do that. However, realize that the equalization hoses are much larger than the hoses that draw water from your tanks and connect to the FW drains. If I remember correctly, it is exactly the same as the hose that goes from your gravity fill to your FW tank.

So it looks like one of these and it is located on the opposite side of your FW tank from where your gravity fill is. It might be difficult to find a good fitting that would shut off a hose of that diameter, but I'm sure you could engineer something.

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