Water Pump question

[dangerdave]

Apologies, as I'm sure this has been asked before but my search didn't turn it up.

My water pump kicks on for about half a second every (seems like) 5 minutes or so. I don't notice any leaks at all, and I know it is supposed to do this somewhat to maintain system pressure.

Is this excessive? I'm not too worried, it's not like it's kicking on for seconds at a time. It does seem like a "top off".

Thoughts?

Thank you in advance!

[hoppers4]

There has to be a leak to the outside world somewhere or the pump itself is leaking back. It should go for days without ever coming on.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by hoppers4

There has to be a leak to the outside world somewhere or the pump itself is leaking back. It should go for days without ever coming on.

+1

Mine hardly ever cycles. Sometimes I'll go hours after we get to wherever we're going and forget it's even on. It lets me know when I turn on a faucet while we're hooked up to city water and it tries to re-pressurize the system.

Could it be air in the system somewhere? Air doesn't compress like water and could cause cycling like that? Just a thought ...

[SmokerBill]

Another possiblility- Whenever you turn off the water heater, the air cushion contracts when it cools, and the pump will cycle to maintain pressure.

Did you check for leaks in the fittings near and on the water heater itself? I had leaks at the fittings going directly into the water heater, and had quite a wet situation before I found it. Would've found it much earlier if I hadn't been on city water, and was using the pump instead.

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by dangerdave

Apologies, as I'm sure this has been asked before but my search didn't turn it up.

My water pump kicks on for about half a second every (seems like) 5 minutes or so. I don't notice any leaks at all, and I know it is supposed to do this somewhat to maintain system pressure.

Is this excessive? I'm not too worried, it's not like it's kicking on for seconds at a time. It does seem like a "top off".

Thoughts?

Thank you in advance!

Exact issue a couple weeks back, bathroom sink had a Sloooow drip. I'd start with all faucets and see if that doesn't fix it.

[bedrck46]

Check toilet to see if the valve is leaking or the outside shower for leaks and also that the valves are fully closed.

[dangerdave]

Well this is all very interesting. I'm glad I asked, thank you. We've been at the CG for 36 hours now and no leaks anywhere. No faucet drips, toilet fine. Water pump looks great, no leaks. Water pressure is great, no weird noises.

Water heater looks good, no leaks. The water heater air thing, I can't say although I have had it off to conserve propane. We're dry camping.

Should the water heater just always be left on?

And this is a brand new TT.

Thanks all for the help!

[dangerdave]

I should say since I read that water heater air comment, I've had the heater on for 45 minutes and I haven't noticed the cycle, but I haven't tuned in to it either. I'm watching now.

[dangerdave]

it just cycled. It does seem to be less frequent with the heater on. That could just be a perception though

[dangerdave]

Sorry one more thing. I have had the A/C running and there's water coming off the left front of the roof....I'm assuming that's condensation. I just thought I'd mention that however.

[Scoutr2]

A couple things you might try or check:

The water heater could have an air bubble. Turn it off and let it cool down. Then go out and open the pressure relief valve (with the pump ON). That is located at the top of the tank and will burp out any air, if there is any.

I had a similar problem on my previous TT. It turned out that the check valve behind the city water inlet (where you hook up the hose) was leaking a little bit, and the pump would cycle for a couple seconds every 5-10 minutes. Those check valves are plastic and sometimes have a flaw in the valve seat or the check stem. Sometimes a piece of debris gets caught in it, preventing a tight seating. And sometimes the return spring can get awry, doing the same thing. Try pushing in on the stem a couple times (after carefully removing the screen from the threaded connector). Stand off to the side, because it will squirt water out at you. (You should also do this when you winterize, too, to ensure the antifreeze fills that short hose between the pump and the city water inlet.)

The only other thing I can think of beside these and the other stuff people have suggested, is the pump pressure switch is adjusted right on the edge. The dealer might be able to help you on this one.

Hope I helped!

Mike

[dangerdave]

Yes thank you very much! I will check out and report back

[dangerdave]

Scoutr2.....YOU SIR are a steely eyed missile man.

I went outside to the city water connection, carefully removed the little screen, pressed the little white check valve, got sprayed in the face just as you indicated, and PRESTO....the cycling has stopped!

Thank you...... and to everyone who was so helpful.

I hope to someday answer questions for people as well.

[Scoutr2]

Glad I could help. I know that drove me nuts until I figured it out! LOL!

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Air doesn't compress like water and could cause cycling like that? Just a thought ...

That is backwards. Air is compressible, and water is not.


We have had this happen a few times. We currently have a low point drain that is dripping a little. Our low point drains are under the bathroom sink. It is not uncommon for a little construction debris to be in the water lines. If it get stuck in the valve it will cause leakage.

We had a thumb screw connection for one of our supply lines to a sinks that was just a little loose. Easy fix.

We had a warranty repair, the screen filter housing between the pump and FW tankwas full of spider Web fractures. The fractures allowed air into the housing, but water could did not escape.

[mike837go]

The pump will cycle as the water in the water heater cools down. Several times over 3 to 4 hours. I've noticed that my pump will cycle (under 2 seconds) about 10 to 15 seconds AFTER I've shut off a faucet.


I read the manual on these new 'bypass' pumps and I am not pleased with the added complexity just to provide a smoother water flow.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by dangerdave

Sorry one more thing. I have had the A/C running and there's water coming off the left front of the roof....I'm assuming that's condensation. I just thought I'd mention that however.

The condensate drain on the air conditioner will run off the roof at the lowest point, not a problem. The question persists, how is it running if you are dry camped?

[silverark]

I also had the FW pump cycling occasionally. After having the city water connection used on a trip it got more often. I had no leaks. I did some research and decided to check the pump. I removed the pump head and found the internal check valve stuck. Just touched it and it snapped closed. Put back together and have had no problems. It even runs quieter.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

That is backwards. Air is compressible, and water is not.


snip ...

I see where I screwed up. I meant to say that their compression properties are dissimilar. What I meant to say was that air will compress more readily than water. If you have air in the system, the pump will keep trying to compress it to get to the specified system pressure. If there's a lot of air, the pump will run a lot, if there's just a little air, it will expand and contract quickly, causing the pump to cycle periodically.

That was my theory anyway. I'm glad OP found the problem, and I've added that knowledge to my own "database" for if/when it happens to me.

[cekkk]

I may have missed an answer to your question about leaving the water heater on. If you have shore power leave it on electric. I'm not sure what dry campers do when using propane. Either way, make darn sure your WH tank is full before you turn the heater on. I forgot to switch from bypass after dewinterizing one year and fried the heating element.

And the roof drip would be from the ac, no problem.