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Old 07-07-2015, 02:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Then I mis-wrote. Neither the front or rear pre- and post- loading measurements can possibly be the same.

The amount of suspension compression should be the same on the front and rear. Ideally, if the rear compresses 1.5" when the trailer is loaded, the front should compress the same 1.5". Therefore the truck was level before loading and level after loading.

Though I did just read that there is a recommendation that the spring bars be set so that the pre- and post- loaded measurements for the front axel be the same. I'm not convinced. That would still leave the rear compressed more than the front.
As stated before, the goal of WDH is to return the front suspension to unloaded weight. This is important to maintain steering control. Pretty much everything else that happens is a by-product. So the front axle measurement (or ideally the weight on that axle) is the most critical measurement. The only reason to measure the rear axle on the truck is to make sure it is not HIGHER than your unhitched height (doesn't happen often, but it CAN happen, and the results are very dangerous).

Goals:
1) You want to return the front axle to unloaded weight.
2) You want the trailer to ride level or slightly nose-down


The truck being level is not the goal, but it is nice if it is. That's why people put on air bags or helper springs; it is not the job of the WDH to level the truck.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:52 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post

Though I did just read that there is a recommendation that the spring bars be set so that the pre- and post- loaded measurements for the front axle be the same. I'm not convinced. That would still leave the rear compressed more than the front.
Don't go by spring compression. That's not the same as restoring weight to the steering control. Check your manual, there should actually be a spec for it. GM says to bring the front fender back to factory height. I believe Ford says to bring the front at least 1/2 of the distance it raised up.

EDIT: Will the manual convince you? I looked at the 2015 Tacoma manual and it says the same things as GM on page 221. You'll have to look at your 2009 manual. I'm sure it's the same spec.

"If using a weight distributing hitch when towing, return the front
axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the
front fender height above the front axle before connection.
Adjust weight distributing hitch torque until front fender is
returned to the same height as before connection."
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bedrck46 View Post
MIKE
There is a vey good video on you tube on how to set up the hitch.
What I do is to get the TT on level ground and also leveled Then I measure from the ground up to the top of the coupler. I then set the ball on my receiver to the same height. Then hitch up and using the equalizer bars make my adjustments
I would like to clarify my statement in which I state how to set ball height.

In the video its stated to measure from the bottom of the coupler to the ground and then set the ball higher by 1 to 1 1/2 inch then the coupler measurement

My statement was to measure to the top of the coupler and set the ball to the same height.
If one were to measure the distance from the bottom of the coupler to the top of the coupler they would find a difference of approx. 1 to 1 1/2 inch.

Either method will produce the same results
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:18 PM   #14
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Thank you so much.


Critical: Zero (or as close as possible) front ride height change between unloaded and fully hitched up.


Almost as important: Trailer level after being hooked up. If cannot achieve level, nose down is better than nose up.


Some rear compression is expected and OK.



Measurements taken at the edge of the wheel opening perpendicular to the ground, passing through the center of the axle.

Now to put all 3 together: truck, trailer and flat & level place.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:26 PM   #15
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Now to put all 3 together: truck, trailer and flat & level place.
And that's the hardest part for me!! The rest is just numbers and turning wrenches, which is EASY!
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:29 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
And that's the hardest part for me!! The rest is just numbers and turning wrenches, which is EASY!

Too True


The trailer and truck live 15 miles apart. And it's 5 miles from where the trailer is kept to a decent parking lot.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post

Though I did just read that there is a recommendation that the spring bars be set so that the pre- and post- loaded measurements for the front axel be the same. I'm not convinced. That would still leave the rear compressed more than the front.
From experience, I attempted to level the truck as you discuss. I ended up with a rough ride and broken hitch parts.

Now the front is within half inch of preload height, back squats an inch and a half, the trailer is level.

No sway when passed, smooth ride. In short, I don't even know it's back there when driving.

Jayco 2008 26bhs - 8600#
2010 ram 2500 cclb
Reese strait line w/1000# bars
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:28 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by tjpolsin View Post
From experience, I attempted to level the truck as you discuss. I ended up with a rough ride and broken hitch parts.

Now the front is within half inch of preload height, back squats an inch and a half, the trailer is level.

No sway when passed, smooth ride. In short, I don't even know it's back there when driving.

Jayco 2008 26bhs - 8600#
2010 ram 2500 cclb
Reese strait line w/1000# bars
We can't change what we already posted. So my "I'm not convinced" has already been changed to "I will be following those recommendations"
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:41 AM   #19
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Mike I found one of the best things about setting everything up myself is that when something goes wrong on the road, you are in a much better position to deal with it and make good decisions on the solution.

My favorite quote is from explorer Roald Amundsen, "Adventure is just bad planning".
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:00 PM   #20
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accuracy is key.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjpolsin View Post
From experience, I attempted to level the truck as you discuss. I ended up with a rough ride and broken hitch parts.

Now the front is within half inch of preload height, back squats an inch and a half, the trailer is level.

No sway when passed, smooth ride. In short, I don't even know it's back there when driving.

Jayco 2008 26bhs - 8600#
2010 ram 2500 cclb
Reese strait line w/1000# bars
It was pointed out to me in a PM that by my signature that I might be overloaded in my trailer by 1100#. The 8600# listed above was just a swag. I was sitting in the dentist office with my daughter checking this forum on my phone. Accurate data was not at the front of my mind while trying to type on a smart phone.

Jayco.com lists the specs for a 2016 Jayflight 26BHS as:
unloaded weight = 5920#
hitch weight = 800#
GVWR = 7750#
cargo weight = 1830#

Based on these numbers, it does appear that I am overweight by ~1100#.
HOWEVER, I have a 2008 Jayflight G2 26BHS.
Jayco.com lists the specs for this trailer as:
unloaded weight = 6210#
hitch weight = 740#
GVWR = 8180#
cargo weight = 1970#

so the swag on my signature above is about 400# above what Jayco lists.

Now it gets interesting when I checked with weight tag on the trailer itself
GVWR = 9200#
unloaded weight = 6535#
freshwater = 383#
propane = 60#
cargo carrying capacity = 2222#

All in all, I am probably towing 8000# to 8500# whenever we camp.

One of these trips I will weight the truck and trailer on the way out of town, but I doubt my passengers would appreciate the delay.

Tim
2008 jft G2 26BHS - GVWR = 9200#
2010 ram 2500 cclb w/cummins
reese strait line WDH w/1000# bars.
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