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Old 08-14-2015, 11:43 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by BrentB View Post
There are two auto parts stores near me that rent torque wrenches that go up to 250 ft. lbs. When I told them I just needed to torque one bolt in the parking lot, they let me use it for free.
Yeah, it looks like Autozone has this service as well. Just leave a deposit and bring the tool back within 90 days to get your deposit back.
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tylersdad View Post
Most of these hitches are relatively easy to install. The biggest problem is most people don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 200, 300 ft lbs. I wonder if those can be rented?
And a 2-5/16" ball with a 1-1/4" shank needs to be torqued as high as 450ft lbs unless stated otherwise by the manufacture. Thats why I bought a 3/4" breaker bar and a socket that fits the nut. AND have a "persuader" pipe to use as a cheater bar.

I know Reese states 300ft lbs for the hitch head bolts, or torque to 150 ft lbs, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn if the torque wrench does not go high enough.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:11 AM   #23
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I have the same trailer as you just a 2014. When I bought it I had a Reese Dual Cam from my previous trailer that I installed on the new one, it had 800 lb bars so was suitable for the hitch weight. In order to return the front to unloaded height I had to have several washers in the head and ran hooked on the sixth link. Rear sag was 2 inches with chairs, bikes, bbq grill, cooler in the truck bed, and the trailer attached.
In short, don't worry so much about rear drop, it's the front that matters the most. If you return it to unhooked height you're good to go as steering control is what you are after. If you start raising the rear you can get to the point that it's too light and you'll start wearing front end components due to overloading.
You also will run the risk of lowering effective hitch weight to the point of trailer sway if you aren't careful. Trucks are made to carry weight, that's why the rear is higher when they are empty and settle to level when loaded.
After one camping season I wasn't happy with the feelings I got when towing on the interstate from wind, passing cars, and semis blowing past at 70 plus as I poked along at 55 with a death grip on the steering wheel. My rig was set up correctly, had scale weights to prove it, but never felt in control all the time. I pull with a Dodge half ton, payload sticker says 1880 lbs, so my truck is up to the task but it's downfall is 20" P rated tires.
I bought a used Hensley on CL and will never use anything else. You can believe everything they say on their site. No sway, no feelings of movement from the trailer, nothing. I'll go anywhere on the interstate now and drive 60-62 arriving none the worse for wear. This is my 5th year camping and wish I had bought one at the beginning. Live and learn I suppose.
That's my 2 cents, good luck and happy camping! Nice looking setup you have there.
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:08 PM   #24
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The Equalizer is heavy, too. Probably even heavier than the Blue Ox if I had to guess. But it's also rock solid and very heavy duty so worth it for me.

How much are the Equalizers going for at dealerships anyways?
Mine was $699 with the new trailer, installed. I did readjust it (dealer didn't measure it right and it wasn't level when they installed), and since then it tows quite well and the front end is within .5" of normal vehicle height.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:21 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by bill777x View Post
I have the same trailer as you just a 2014. When I bought it I had a Reese Dual Cam from my previous trailer that I installed on the new one, it had 800 lb bars so was suitable for the hitch weight. In order to return the front to unloaded height I had to have several washers in the head and ran hooked on the sixth link. Rear sag was 2 inches with chairs, bikes, bbq grill, cooler in the truck bed, and the trailer attached.
In short, don't worry so much about rear drop, it's the front that matters the most. If you return it to unhooked height you're good to go as steering control is what you are after. If you start raising the rear you can get to the point that it's too light and you'll start wearing front end components due to overloading.
You also will run the risk of lowering effective hitch weight to the point of trailer sway if you aren't careful. Trucks are made to carry weight, that's why the rear is higher when they are empty and settle to level when loaded.
After one camping season I wasn't happy with the feelings I got when towing on the interstate from wind, passing cars, and semis blowing past at 70 plus as I poked along at 55 with a death grip on the steering wheel. My rig was set up correctly, had scale weights to prove it, but never felt in control all the time. I pull with a Dodge half ton, payload sticker says 1880 lbs, so my truck is up to the task but it's downfall is 20" P rated tires.
I bought a used Hensley on CL and will never use anything else. You can believe everything they say on their site. No sway, no feelings of movement from the trailer, nothing. I'll go anywhere on the interstate now and drive 60-62 arriving none the worse for wear. This is my 5th year camping and wish I had bought one at the beginning. Live and learn I suppose.
That's my 2 cents, good luck and happy camping! Nice looking setup you have there.

Not everybody has the $2000 for a Hensley.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:41 AM   #26
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From what I have read, that seems like a great option for lower tongue weights. What you have to keep in mind is that by giving up the lever arms the Anderson hitch requires a large force on the chains parallel the ground and an equal/opposite large force on the ball/coupler.
I would agree that the Andersen has been better suited for lower tongue weights. In my research last fall that seemed to be for weights under 750-800lb. However, I do know that they have made some adjustments in an effort to improve the weight distribution for the heavier tongue weights. I recently ordered a spare polyurethane bushing to have on hand as we are making an ~2500 mile run through the southwest next month. I was expecting a 3" long bushing but they sent me one that was 2" long instead, and I could tell it was harder than my current bushings. When I called them about it they said that the bushings had been changed in order to improve performance for heavier tongue weights.

My tongue weight is generally around 450-475lb - probably half of what the OP's 23MRB likely is. The first time I scaled the fully loaded set up I found I had to reduce the weight distribution as it had pushed back almost 100lb more than the unloaded steer axle weight. The sway control works very well too - I have almost 1000 miles on it now and it's always been a smooth and steady pull even with the semi's flying by. It might still be worth taking a look at.
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