Weight Distribution hitch EXTENSION?

[JKyle]

I have the Recurve 6 WD setup.

I hate that I can't open my truck bed door all the way.

Is it safe to use/add a hitch extension?

[Grumpy]

You can buy a longer head mount for some hitches. I would check directly with EAZ Lift

[Jayhawk 29]

If your tailgate is hitting an electric hitch head, you can turn it with a little bit of effort.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

If you have a manual crank and want to upgrade to electric, this is one for you.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

[RogerR]

I agree with both of above. If you can swivel your tongue jack enough then that is the easy way. Alternatively, I would much rather have a solid hitch than an extender. An extender seems to be simply a place for potential failure. There is a lot of stress on the hitch and a solid steel single piece seems much more sensible.
I also looked and saw most hitch extenders sold were 3,500 lbs. rated. Others have more but you are stressing everything that way.

[Russc25]

I wouldn't use an extension period, I really wouldn't with that much trailer, and I definitely wouldn't put a receiver extension on a WD hitch.

The WD hitch works by torquing the ball mount downward in the hitch to try to torque the front of the truck downward. Between that and the tongue weight, there's a lot of forces going on there.

I would look at removing or relocating whatever's on the tongue preventing you from opening the tailgate.

[Jerry713]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I have the Recurve 6 WD setup.

I hate that I can't open my truck bed door all the way.

Is it safe to use/add a hitch extension?

Unless you have a class 5 receiver hitch towing a RV with a 500 lb or less tongue weight no way I would consider an extension.

I would be looking at a different WD hitch that allows you to open your tailgate if rotating the jack head or relocating the jack further back isn’t a viable option.

[craigav]

Many years ago I purchased one like this and it worked well. However the price was a lot less back then and it was made out of Aluminum. So I don't necessarily recommend this one but perhaps one designed like this one would work well.

To answer your particular question, the use of a hitch extension significantly reduces the weight the hitch can support and imo should be avoided for any use other than a lightweight trailer. I had an ~18" extension that I used to tow a lightweight boat trailer behind my Truck and Truck Camper and had to use the extension as the truck camper made getting to the hitch almost impossible, but I wouldn't use it for anything heavier. ~CA

[Old and soft]

Here is a shot of my boy's hitch extension. Special reciever bolted on the truck to accept the trin tube extension. This pic is all I know about this setup. He kept the camper and sold the truck.

[colby]

Like his methods (and variety of tow vehicles) or not, Andy Thompson at Can Am RV in London Ontario talks about the length of the receiver bar being one of the core tenants of how stable towing the trailer is, and how it reacts in emergency conditions. The shorter it is, the more stable.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jayflight 23

If your tailgate is hitting an electric hitch head, you can turn it with a little bit of effort.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

If you have a manual crank and want to upgrade to electric, this is one for you.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

This 'turn the head of the power tongue jack' video is great. I think I'll assess my unit for this possibility. Looks pretty straight forward. Thanks!

I'll also look into contacting the WDH manufacturer regarding an extension, like Grumpy mentioned.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by craigav

Many years ago I purchased one like this and it worked well. However the price was a lot less back then and it was made out of Aluminum. So I don't necessarily recommend this one but perhaps one designed like this one would work well.

To answer your particular question, the use of a hitch extension significantly reduces the weight the hitch can support and imo should be avoided for any use other than a lightweight trailer. I had an ~18" extension that I used to tow a lightweight boat trailer behind my Truck and Truck Camper and had to use the extension as the truck camper made getting to the hitch almost impossible, but I wouldn't use it for anything heavier. ~CA

Well...isn't that a nifty thing! Thanks!

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jayflight 23

If your tailgate is hitting an electric hitch head, you can turn it with a little bit of effort.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

If you have a manual crank and want to upgrade to electric, this is one for you.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervie...BF4D&FORM=VIRE

I thought about this just a moment ago. Would it be just as easy to take out the 3 tongue jack bolts, spin the entire hitch (triangle with the three holes) reattach bolts? I guess I'm not sure of how far a single turn from one bolt hole to the next would rotate the head, but might it be a consideration?

[Jayhawk 29]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I thought about this just a moment ago. Would it be just as easy to take out the 3 tongue jack bolts, spin the entire hitch (triangle with the three holes) reattach bolts? I guess I'm not sure of how far a single turn from one bolt hole to the next would rotate the head, but might it be a consideration?

I have never looked closely at the bolt hole pattern to know if you can just simply spinning the unit would work.. Maybe hook up the camper and take the load off of the hitch and see. Maybe I will look at mine tomorrow and see if this is workable.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jayflight 23

I have never looked closely at the bolt hole pattern to know if you can just simply spinning the unit would work.. Maybe hook up the camper and take the load off of the hitch and see. Maybe I will look at mine tomorrow and see if this is workable.

I’ll be busy through Saturday, but if you’re able to check it out before then, I’ll be curious at to what you think.

[mrmom]

With my last TV I used an extended shank to gain enough clearance for my liftgate. For my new truck, I went a different direction to gain clearance, I moved the entire tongue jack back 6 inches! This required fabricating new top & bottom plates to mount the jack and welding them to the trailer A-frame. Came out really nice, provides ample clearance for the liftgate and it allows the ball mount to be closer to the truck to provide better WD/handling characteristics. I know, not a feasible solution for everyone, but it's a thought.

[Jayhawk 29]

I have a FIC 3500 hitch jack.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?p...73&FORM=WRVORC


The entire head is welded in place for the operating parts. So the head does not come off as one unit. I tried to take the head unit off of the welded flange. But the flange is not square. So the bolt pattern and the head flange matting up when turning the head is not possible.

I unbolted the entire setup at the base on the hitch and attempted to spin it and align the existing holes in the flange to the current frame. They do not align up when I turn it, especially when I turn it 45 degrees.

[CJAZ]

Originally Posted by JKyle

This 'turn the head of the power tongue jack' video is great. I think I'll assess my unit for this possibility. Looks pretty straight forward. Thanks!.

It isn't always as straightforward, as there sometimes is not a hole 90 degrees from the first for the bolt, and sometimes there is a hole that is not threaded and needs to be tapped. Just a heads up. Oh, and sometimes turning it 90 degrees doesn't quite clear depending on the setup. (guess that's 3 potential heads up's)

[Jayhawk 29]

Originally Posted by CJAZ

It isn't always as straightforward, as there sometimes is not a hole 90 degrees from the first for the bolt, and sometimes there is a hole that is not threaded and needs to be tapped. Just a heads up. Oh, and sometimes turning it 90 degrees doesn't quite clear depending on the setup. (guess that's 3 potential heads up's)

You need to start somewhere. The more research you do on possible alternatives to allow you to fully open your tailgate, the better. One other thing to look for in the initial study of your setup is will your tailgate fold all the way down without hitting the top of the trailer hitch if you are able to swing the hitch jack head to the side.

This can ruin your day if you end up pushing in an area of your paint on the tailgate where the locking latch is located. Maybe look at the brand of jack that you have and see if there is a you tube video relating to changing the setup. My last Ford was a 2wd and I did not have a problem fully opening it up with my Coachman Apex camper. It was an older truck though.

[djrainer]

I've been using the Husky Brand WDH and they offer, and I bought, a 14" Shank for the head. I pull with an F250 Super Duty with 2 1/2" Receiver. I use the 14" Shank with a 2.5" x 2". This is so I don't have to use a 2.5" to 2" Reducer sleeve in the Receiver. Works great and tail gate opens without any modifications to the Husky Power Lift. Husky makes a great product and they stand behind their product better than some. I bought my power jack used, it was about 2 years old. On our first trip, the switch got wet and the jack powered down while driving. Dragged it a few feet before stopping to see what the issue was. Contacted Husky to just get a price on one of the pieces but then asked why, I explained and they said we'll cover that as it should never had happened. I told them thank you but I didn't buy it new and they said no problem, we're still going to replace it, and all I had to do is send the broken one back and they paid for all the shipping. I can't say they're the best, but they're who I use and I like them. D

[hjets]

I bought one from Equa-l-izer. It added enough room to lower my tailgate. You need to buy an electrical connection also.