Weight distribution hitch issues

[jessie.higgs.77]

Hello all. I'm new to the forum here and will soon be picking up out new 2014 Jay Flight 33BHTS. We had a much smaller unit before, so the 800 lb. max tongue weight bars on our Reese dual cam WD hitch more than sufficed. Our TV is a 2003 GMC Sierra CCSB 4x4 with a Duramax, so I know I'm well within specs there. My question is, even with airbags installed on the truck, am I going to need to upgrade sway bars to 1200 lb. max, or am I safe just using the 800 pounders that I currently have? Thanks for any input, as I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before picking up our new unit.

[Jmooney]

Looks like the trailer you listed has a dry tongue weight of 880 lbs ( models may vary I guess )

The engineering behind weight distribution systems is balanced so that the trailer weight is not too far forward or too far back on the tow vehicle ( downward force on rear of TV, or upward lift on the rear of the TV)

Before my Fifth wheel, I had a small TT that had 700 lbs of tongue weight, riding on a set of 1200 lb rated bars and found that generally it ran better when I was either full of water ( tank was ahead of the trailer axel ) , or I reduced the " forward lift" buy only hanging the bars from a single chain link.

The closer you can balance the range of tongue weight to the distribution systems "range" the better off you will be

I know, I didn't really answer your question, but considering the dry weight is 880 lbs plus gear, I think you have to up in size.... But not too far as you also need to balance the distribution

[Bob Landry]

The actual dry tongue weight is likely going to be close to 1000 pounds if not over. You need to get an actual loaded tongue weight and get the next heaviest set of bars, but I'm guessing you are probably going to need the 1200 lb bars. All the air bags do is raise the back end, they do not change any of the trucks capacities. Also, the purpose of the bars is to return the front end to it's original weight, not to level the truck. Just something to keep in mind. A lot of people crank the hitch and bars until the truck is level and that's not right.

[Rustic Eagle]

The 2014 33BHTS has a published UVW of 8,310lbs and a GVWR of 10,500lbs. The Published UVW is not representative of the actual weight from the factory, so IMO you will be looking at an actual Ship Weight (noted on yellow sticker on TT) of about 8,760lbs.

The 33BHTS is a 37ft. long TT, so a recommended loaded tongue weight will be in the 13% to 15% range of the potential (or actual) loaded weight of the TT.

If one were to load the 33BHTS to it's GVWR of 10,500lbs, the desired loaded tongue weight range would be 1,365lbs to 1,575lbs....., which would be a WDH spring rating of 1,500lbs minimum (1,700lb rating ideal).

Example of modest 33BHTS loaded for camping: (8,310 UVW) + (450lb Ship Weight delta) + (100lb dealer.., battery, etc.) + (600lbs cargo, no fluids) = 9,460lbs

Example modest 33BHTS loaded tongue weight: 13% to 15% of (9,460lbs) = 1,230lbs to 1,420lbs ....., so a WDH spring bar rating of 1,500lbs would be required.

Since we all have different loading habits, you may want to increase the cargo weight assumption if you tend to load on the heavy side (family) or carry fluids.

On Edit: If your Reese Dual Cam WDH has the trunnion style spring bars, you would only have to upgrade the spring bars. If you have the round bar style you will have to purchase a new Reese Dual Cam WDH because the round spring bars only go up to a 1,200lb rating, and the trunnion spring bars of course aren't compatible with the round spring bar ball mount. I prefer the trunnion style WDH ball mount anyway because it has a greater tilt angle adjustment.

If you decide to go with the 1,700lb rated trunnion bars, I believe this WDH set-up requires a 2 1/2" TV receiver (in lieu of 2") ......, but I would confirm this because this may require a receiver upgrade depending on your TV model year. I'm confident that a 1,500lb rated spring bar WDH is compatible with a 2" TV reciever because that's what I have (upgraded from a 1,200lb set-up).

Also, do to the loaded tongue weights you will incur, you will want to have your WDH snap-up brackets bolted to the TT's A-frame.

Hope this helps.

Bob

[Jmooney]

Great detailed answer from Bob (Rustic Eagle) - one of the most important thing he mentions is knowing the actual tongue weight, then from that point, using a distribution bar that fits within the "range" Again - too much weight forward creates just as much problem as not enough.

If you hang a set of 1800 lb bars, at full lift capacity, and the tongue weight is really only 800 lbs because you have most of the additional cargo weight behind the axel of the trailer ( lifting the weight off the trailer tongue) , you are going to shift too much of the trailer weight forward on the Tow Vehicle, creating an improper weight alignment on the truck.

My .02

[clutch]

I think you will probably want the heavier spring bars.

[the moose is loose]

Jessie,
I posted yesterday on a different thread saying I would check my hitch bars this weekend. Just got back from camper storage. I have a Reese pro series as recommended from my camper dealer Colerain RV in Cincinatti. It is a 1000 # tongue weight and 10000 max weight. It seems to work real well. May be on the low end size wise, but I agree with Jmooney to keep it as close to actual weight of your camper as possible. You will always need to use the sway bar as the 33 bhts is actually 37 feet long and I can tell you from experience that when it is 25 mph plus winds, you will know the camper is back there. Happy camping and enjoy your new camper, we love ours.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by the moose is loose

snip..... It is a 1000 # tongue weight and 10000 max weight. It seems to work real well. May be on the low end size wise.....snip

I would agree with your thought that a 1,000lb WDH may be a little undersized for a 33BHTS.

About the only way one could get away using a 1,000lb rated WDH is loading extremely lite and towing with a 10% loaded tongue weight....(13% to 15% desired), and with a 37ft TT the chance of unwanted bouncing is very likely at 10%.

If you get a chance, a visit to a CAT scale may confirm your suspicions.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3871

Bob

[TCNashville]

Hey Bob, [Rustic Eagle] just a quick question and not intending to drift too far from the OP. I noticed you stated above that with heavy tongue weights the spring bar snap up brackets should be bolted to the TT's A-frame. I have nearly 1400lbs on the tongue and my spring bar brackets aren't bolted to the frame, just slightly tightened by the hold down bolt. Just wondering if mine should be bolted [and I'm assuming drilling through the frame bolted] ? Thanks, Terry

[Rustic Eagle]

Terry,

Yes, you should bolt (or screw) your snap-up brackets with your heavy tongue weight. There are a couple of ways of accomplishing this:

1) How I did thru-bolts:http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2578

2) Reese recommendation, with one self tapping screw, reference page 3 of 4: http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66067.pdf

Bob

[TCNashville]

Bob, thanks for the valuable info. I learn something everyday on this Forum

[jessie.higgs.77]

Thanks for all the info guys. Wound up getting a brand new Equalizer hitch installed at the dealership before we brought it home on Saturday. It towed like an absolute dream! In fact, I believe it handled better than our old 26' TT and that was driving 2 hours and in 25+ mph winds!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jessie.higgs.77

snip......Wound up getting a brand new Equalizer hitch installed at the dealership .....snip

Just curious, what model/size Equal-i-zer did you go with..., would be good information for others considering the 33BHTS.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

[jessie.higgs.77]

We got the 1,200/12,000lb. hitch.