WFCO and AGM batteries

[jhaan]

My (OP) controller is same as Bob: WFCO 8955 PEC. I also have not seen it reach 14.4 V. It charges at 13.6-13.7, and then floats at 13.2 V.

Ultimately I decided to go with a flooded battery set because I simply did not trust this controller to properly charge the AGM despite the manufacturer telling us that it will. Apparently, it is a well-known issue that this controller does not go above 13.7 V, and when this is not enough for an AGM, then why would I spend twice as much for a battery that will not charge properly? The Trojans are easy to fill and to equalize, so I figured flooded is the way to go. (Or change out the controller, but on a brand new trailer that would be my last option.)

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

You may be referring to my 2005 Eagle TT battery meter installation 'link' I referenced in Post #8 in this thread.

I re-installed the same Trimetric meter into my 2018 24RBS and mounted it on the outside of the floor cabinet located next to main entry door. From the A-frame shunt junction box I ran my conduit along the frame back just beyond the entry door, then came up through the underbelly directly inside the floor cabinet. I elected not to attempt an in-wall wire routing.

I didn't take pics of my 24RBS meter install, but I can take & post some pics if they would be helpful.

Bob

Ok, I see it all except where to come through the (I have enclosed...) underbelly to directly hit the cabinet. Or did you go down through the cabinet to locate the wires and then grab them from outside??

Also, where did you connect to red (+)--near/on the battery? And then run the other two wires all the way to the cabinet from the shunt?

Thanks!

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

I'll go and take a couple photos and also a photo showing where the meter wiring comes into the cabinet. I didn't run the conduit through the cabinet floor, but did run it up through the enclosed underbelly.

I pulled my meter wire down through the cabinet floor then into the conduit, and continued through the conduit to the shunt junction box.

It will be easier to address your questions with a couple photos to reference.

I'll get back with you this evening or tomorrow (TT in storage).

Bob

[01tundra]

I've been using my LifeLine GPL-27T AGM battery with the factory WFCO 8735 converter for over a year with no issues so far.

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

I hope the following photos/comments help with your similar installation:

Originally Posted by jhaan

snip....Also, where did you connect to red (+)--near/on the battery? And then run the other two wires all the way to the cabinet from the shunt? Thanks!

My particular TriMetric battery monitor has four (4) total wires landing at its terminal block...., three (3) from the shunt and one (1) (+) from the battery.

NOTE: One correction from my prior post, I didn't run my conduit through the corrugated underbelly material located on the "inside" of the I-beam...., my conduit ran thru the sub-floor material on the "outside" of the I-beam.

PHOTOS:

Negative cable from battery bank enters bottom of shunt junction box. Upper conduit houses (3) wires from shunt & (1) (+) wire from battery to my TriMetric battery monitor. Lower conduit/black wire loom houses (1) single (+) wire from battery bank (+) thread post (wire also has a 2mp fuse holder close to battery). Ignore heavy gauge red cable between conduits......



Upper conduit from shunt junction box passes over top of existing OEM junction box. Single (+) wire in black wire loom (zip tied) from shunt junction box going to (+) threaded post at battery bank.....



Transition corner from upper conduit from shunt junction box to I-beam mounted conduit. Conduit running along I-beam has a couple jointed sections, conduit attached to I-beam with a couple hole-clamps.....



Elbow transition.., conduit passes through sub-floor protection material/insulation, but not through main plywood floor decking material. Conduit is located 2 1/2" from face of I-beam.......



NOTE: Conduit from outside may not line up with wire clearance hole in main floor decking ..., don't recall if mine lined-up, whether there was an interference, or dictated by outside conduit placement availability.

Main floor decking clearance hole for wiring is located 2 1/4" from wall. Wiring can be taped to a coat hanger and feed down through hole, insulation, etc., to the outside then through conduit pieces "prior" to conduct being put in place...OR.... run a coat hanger down through the floor hole/insulation/sub-floor protection to the outside then tape the wiring and pull back upward through the floor hole (conduit pieces initially loose then put into place).....





Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

I hope the following photos/comments help with your similar installation:

Hello Bob. Thank you for sending over this information--it is very helpful. I think we have some minor differences in the '18 and '19 models, but overall we are looking at the same install, and I can use what you have shown me here! I do like how it looks on that interior cabinet wall also--a great place for monitors; I may place my solar monitor there as well. If I can manage to do both simultaneously, that would be great!

I have a few simple questions for you now (maybe more once I start the install...):
1. Did you use a CAT5 cable to go from shunt to monitor?
2. What is the material that you used to close up any physical holes between conduit and junction boxes, for example? Some kind of putty?

Thanks!

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

The TriMetric monitor came with CAT4 wire.

I used butyl putty tape for filling in gaps, etc., which I tend to keep on hand. Gorilla tape took care of the area where the conduit went through the sub-floor protection material.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

The TriMetric monitor came with CAT4 wire.

I used butyl putty tape for filling in gaps, etc., which I tend to keep on hand. Gorilla tape took care of the area where the conduit went through the sub-floor protection material.

Bob

Did you use special screws to mount the junction box/shunt? Do sheet metal screws work?

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

Nothing special......, drilled a couple pilot holes for a couple adequately sized sheet metal screws I had on hand.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

Nothing special......, drilled a couple pilot holes for a couple adequately sized sheet metal screws I had on hand.

Bob

Thank you. Will do. Now I am confused about my battery disconnect switch that I likely will mount directly on battery box. I have heard both...that it goes on (+) and it goes on (-). So I am confused! Seems (+) leaves it at risk or spark/arc? But I guess either does? If I want to manually disconnect I break (-) first so why would switch be different and break (+) instead?

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jhaan

snip......Now I am confused about my battery disconnect switch that I likely will mount directly on battery box. I have heard both...that it goes on (+) and it goes on (-). So I am confused! Seems (+) leaves it at risk or spark/arc? But I guess either does? If I want to manually disconnect I break (-) first so why would switch be different and break (+) instead?

I don't have a disconnect switch and never installed one...., so I'll defer your question to those that have specific knowledge on the subject.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

What is the WFCO's model?
Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

Hi Don, Can you answer the question I posed 2 posts above regarding the disconnect switch? Or should I post somewhere else?
Thanks

EDIT: Don, I found your comments here:
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...h-51250-2.html
It seems it's easier to get search results within the forum from Google rather than the forum search!!

So I think you have answered my questions already on this previous thread. So naturally I have more:

My battery (-) goes into an OEM junction box. I don't know what is in there; I have been scared to open it up. I guess I need to?? If my battery (-) dumps directly to ground, can I connect the battery disconnect at the (-), or does it matter whether it goes directly to ground?

Also, I have a shunt to install for a battery monitor. Does this go before/after/does-not-matter the disconnect switch? I assume it would go along the same line, though since the shunt will be on the (-)?

Sorry for the endless questions, but thanks for the help!!

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by jhaan

…….. My battery (-) goes into an OEM junction box. I don't know what is in there; I have been scared to open it up. I guess I need to?? If my battery (-) dumps directly to ground, can I connect the battery disconnect at the (-), or does it matter whether it goes directly to ground?

Also, I have a shunt to install for a battery monitor. Does this go before/after/does-not-matter the disconnect switch? I assume it would go along the same line, though since the shunt will be on the (-)?

Sorry for the endless questions, but thanks for the help!!

Are you talking about the cable that goes directly from the battery (usually white) and it goes DIRECTLY into an OEM box? Or are you by the charge controller?

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

Are you talking about the cable that goes directly from the battery (usually white) and it goes DIRECTLY into an OEM box? Or are you by the charge controller?

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

Yes the cable (mine is black) from (-) post into OEM box that sits about 2 feet from batteries

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I don't have a disconnect switch and never installed one...., so I'll defer your question to those that have specific knowledge on the subject.

Bob

Have you by chance dropped any wires from the cargo area under the bed to the outside of the trailer? From your pictures it looks like no, but I'm curious. I am thinking about hard wiring my solar controller in there but not sure what I would drill through. Honestly, hate drilling through a new item, but your success (and pics) installing the battery monitor gives me a higher level of confidence

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jhaan

Have you by chance dropped any wires from the cargo area under the bed to the outside of the trailer?....snip

I haven't..., but it hasn't been ruled out should I cross over into the "solar" world. My past conversations with AMSolar on system requirements was based on control hardware mounted in the pass-thru storage area.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I haven't..., but it hasn't been ruled out should I cross over into the "solar" world. My past conversations with AMSolar on system requirements was based on control hardware mounted in the pass-thru storage area.

Bob

I was able to install the solar controller over the weekend. There was a hot wire in that weird pseudo junction box (mine is on the left (ie, would be drivers)) side of the cargo pass through; its the box that controls the lights on the outside of the trailer. There was also a ground, but it was only 12 awg and I needed 10 awg for the possibility I will pass a little more current through my controller (if/when I buy more solar panels). The hot wire was 10 awg. With the controller mounted inside the cargo area, the wiring to go back out to the "solar on the side" connection would have been getting too long, so splicing into the hot there made more sense.

Then I had to drop a ground through the floor, which was super easy and the exterior puncture of the underbelly was tiny and it a well-protected area.

Next, my solar controller has a "remote" control, which is CAT5 wired into the controller. For now I have it placed on my nightstand, since there is a hole between the cargo and the bedroom--not sure if you have noticed that yet! Eventually I may move it to the side of the cabinet above the couch as you walk into the coach. This would be easy to run tight along the base of the bedroom wall/floor.

But I have to decide what to do with the battery monitor first. I am going to try a hall sensor before deciding to install the shunt, and I have to decide how to wire the sensor, as I would like to have both monitors in the same spot eventually.

If you ever go solar, I'll post some pics of my setup in case you are interested in something similar, or at least for ideas. My solar is "portable" since I don't want the panels on top of the trailer I will be trying to park in the shade!! A bit of a pain in the ass, but gives more flexibility!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jhaan

snip..... If you ever go solar, I'll post some pics of my setup in case you are interested in something similar, or at least for ideas......snip

jhaan,

You may want to consider starting a new thread over in the "Jayco Mods" forum focusing on your 2019 24RBS mods....., solar system, battery monitor, battery bank projects would be a great starter. Mods aren't necessarily Model or floorpan specific, they will be of interest to all (TT, HTT, FW, etc., owners).

Great high traffic visibility & discussion at the "Jayco Mods" forum, less chance of getting buried in a model (TT, HTT, FW, etc.) specific forum/thread. Also great for future viewer referencing at later dates.

Post photos in yourJayco Mod thread...., photos are "gold" at JOF

You may have already seen my Mods thread:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...-51005-14.html

Bob