What does pre-wired for solar mean?

[AZMan]

I have a Jay Flight 195RB and is has solar "pre-wire" tags.
What does this mean? Where are the wires located? Are there You Tubes for do-it-yourselfers?

[Jayhawk 29]

If you are prewired, there should be a sticker on one of your walls that will have wiring run inside that location from the roof top down to an owner installed controller. Take a look on your roof and you should see a junction box where two wires thats normally connected to your solar panel will gets plugged in after you mount the panel.

Also there is a wire run in the wall to the battery so that when you connect a solar panel that you install on the roof and connect the wires to a purchased controller, you will charge your battery.

[AZMan]

Awesome!
I've got the sticker. I'm afraid to just cut into the wall. Will the wires be labelled?
Two to the panels and two to the battery?

What do I look for on the roof?
I have red boxes under my tongue (trailers, not mine...grin). Are these related?

[AZMan]

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...er-102554.html

[Jayhawk 29]

Look for something like this on your roof. There are two versions, one for running the wire down inside the roof and wall or one that you can plug your pre-wired connector solar panel wires

https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-We...2660604&sr=8-1



This is probably your junction component on the roof.
https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-Resis...hlbWF0aWM&th=1

If you can take a picture of your red boxes, we may be able to identify them better.

[Tadsher]

Keep in mind that most solar controllers must be connected to the battery before connecting it to the solar panels because the battery defines the voltage of the system. Many of the controllers are designed to work on different battery array voltages (12, 24, 36, 48 volt systems) and the controller does not know what the voltage of your system is without the batteries being connected first.

[stinger608]

Your system probably has the "GoPower" solar ready system.

If so, like Jayhawk 29 stated, it will have the ports up on the roof.

If it is the GoPower system, you can get one of these 30A controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-P...09718619&psc=1

That will handle around 400 watts of solar panels.

The controller will also fit the diagram that is shown on the sticker that's on your wall.

[jimmoore13]

My 2020 rig was also prewired for solar. I won't repeat what others have said other than to repeat that their should be a label on the wall somewhere inside where the wires are routed from the roof to the label, and a second pair of wires is routed down to connect to the wires connecting the converter/charger to the battery bank.

Important caveat. The wire in "prewired" setups is almost always #10 AWG. #10 wire is reasonably rated to handle 30 amps without significant loss due to resistance based on that current.

A typical 400 watt solar array, wired in parallel (as opposed to some mix of series and parallel), will push up to 30 amps through the wire. Wired in parallel (as mine are), 400 watts of solar is the practical limit for a "prewired for solar" installation.

The advantage of parallel is that each panel can perform at its max independent of the other panels. If one panel is shaded a bit, it's output will diminish, but the rest perform at their peak. If you wire panels in series, the shaded panel will reduce the output from its series-wired mate by the same amount...and both panels' output is reduced.

But, the big advantage of wiring two panels in series is that current is cut in half, while voltage doubles. Three panels in series have 1/3 the current of three panels in parallel. And voltage is still within allowable limits.

Under perfect conditions a 100 watt solar panel might put out 18 volts (+/-), and 7.5 amps.
If all 4 are wired in parallel, you have 18 volts and 30 amps...the rated limit of #10 wire.
If all 4 are wired in series, you have 72 volts and 7.5 amps.

Most people try to wire in parallel as much as possible because of the shading issues...if one panel is shaded in series, all panels' outputs are reduced by that one. Furthermore, if any one panel begins to have sections that are failing, it will permanently reduce the output of all.

OTOH, if you want to put 800 watts of panels on your roof, you'll have to wire in some combination of series and parallel to stay within the limits of the #10 wire...or change the wire from the roof to the battery connection to a larger gauge (smaller number like #8 or #6). In a prewired for solar situation, the best option for that is to abandon the prewired for solar stuff and route your own wire down through a closet or pantry cabinet...locating your solar charge controller somewhere other than where the label suggests.

I have 400 watts on the roof in parallel. In sunny Colorado, my array can, by reasonable estimates, produce about 20 amps per hour for roughly 4 peak hours per day, and another 60 to 80 amps of charge over the rest of the day. On a perfect day, I should see roughly 120 AMP HOURS of charge over the course of any nice day. Until I got Starlink, which eats up to 8 amps per hour (amp hours per hour), my solar was beyond adequate...it was overkill. With Starlink, if I run it for 8 to 10 hours, I will eat 80 amp hours (AH) of that 120 solar can produce, and that leads to a significant deficit after running the furnace and other appliances, the pump, the awning, the slide, the tongue jack, and so on. I've supplemented with 200 watts of solar on the side (on the ground), and I boost the charge with some generator time first thing in the morning.

The thing on your roof...where you connect the solar panels is called a "gland." It seals against the roof, and it seals around the solar wires and connectors. The factory gland is usually a very good one.

The solar charge controller, which is part of every solar system, gets mounted where the label on the interior wall is. Make sure you choose an MPPT controller. They are superior to PWM controllers. At the time I bought my kit the MPPT was $100+ more than the PWM, and I'm in sunny Colorado, so I didn't pop for the extra $100. But most solar climates are not like Colorado...lots of sun, high altitude, and max solar gain. Today, MPPT controllers are not much more expensive than PWM...and if I had it to do over again, I'd get MPPT.

If you're going to DIY, I'd get this kit. It's high quality (Renogy is a great brand), and it's very easy to setup. GoPower is fine, but right now all you own is a gland on the roof and wire in the wall, so you should be able to use anything.

The neatest installation is a recessed, flush mounted charge controller. You can surface mount, but often times the charge controller will be located on a wall that's a walk area...sticking out like a sore thumb. Recessed mounting is very elegant by comparison.

The best tool to cut the hole for recessed mounting is an oscillating tool with a high quality (say Diablo brand) blade. You can make do with a $30 oscillating tool with a $30 blade and get an absolutely perfect cut. In the tissue-paper thin paneling of an RV wall, things like a jigsaw will just make a mess.

Your next decision is about batteries. Today you want at least 200 AMPS worth of LiFePo4 (a.k.a. "lithium") batteries. Whatever the dealer installed on your rig isn't worth much of anything.

You shift your converter to charge "lithium" rather than lead acid. You switch the solar charge controller similarly, AND YOU ADD A "DC-to-DC Converter" to protect your tow vehicle's alternator from the huge power suck of the lithium battery.

The last thing you need to know is about your fridge. New rigs come with 12-volt compressor fridges. These are great in RV parks, but you're talking solar, which I assume means you want to boondock. 12-volt compressor fridges are POWER HOGS. The most common rule of thumb is that they eat about 35 AH per day...every day, all day. That's the entire capacity of that cheapo lead acid marine battery the dealer gave you. With no power for anything else...nothing. My solar array could keep up...when the sun is shining, but overnight, between the fridge, furnace, lights, entertainment, pump, and so on, your battery will likely be deader than a doornail by morning. Over-discharging the battery kills it very quickly. So, if you plan to boondock...and it sounds as if you do...you're going to need a LOT more battery...as I suggested above. My rig has an old fashioned "absorption" (120 volt AC/Propane) fridge, and I wouldn't own a 12-volt Compressor fridge. But you do, so there you have it...you need lots more power to boondock.

If you plan to boondock, no matter how much solar and how much battery you have, make no mistake, you'll need an inverter generator. 2000 watts is enough unless you live where air conditioning is absolutely essential. If you'll be camping in TX, you'll need more like 4000 watts to run the AC and keep up with charging duties and that fridge when the weather is not conducive to solar. And believe me, if it's 90 degrees with 80% RH in the heat of a TX summer on a rainy day...you'll want AC and that fridge will be working overtime.

BTW, the Harbor Freight Predator is a fine brand of generators, but there are many great alternatives. I have a mid-sized Generac. Champion is outstanding, and many of the third party brands are just fine. No longer do you need to pop for more than a kilobuck for a Honda...nice as they are. My friend has one Honda and one Predator, and he's able to team up the two to create a "big" generator out of two small ones. He actually prefers the Predator.

I did my DIY installation at age 72. When I did my installation, LiFePo4 batteries were about a kilobuck per 100 amps. Today they are dirt cheap by comparison. I have 2 golf cart batteries on my tongue, but I will go with lithium when I replace them. Photo below. Hit me up if you have any questions about a simple, very serviceable solar system that will allow you to camp indefinitely without real concerns about power.

[jimmoore13]

P.S. I know you didn't ask about all this "stuff," but, based on your question, I suspect you didn't know to ask. And what I wrote is just the tip of the iceberg. So, again, hit me up if you want to go deeper.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by Tadsher

Keep in mind that most solar controllers must be connected to the battery before connecting it to the solar panels because the battery defines the voltage of the system. Many of the controllers are designed to work on different battery array voltages (12, 24, 36, 48 volt systems) and the controller does not know what the voltage of your system is without the batteries being connected first.

Ditto on this. Put simply, the solar charge controller needs a "load" (the battery) so the charge controller knows what to do with the power from the panels. While many (mistakenly) disconnect the battery bank from the rig without shading or disconnecting the solar panels from the charge controller, it is STRONGLY recommended that you NOT do this. It can damage the charge controller.

[Jayhawk 29]

Let me add that there are two ways of cutting a finished wall of these thin veneers. Even with templates to cut into the wall, personally I tape along the potential cut out lines and even score the potential cut out lines with a brand new razor blade, which will give whatever you use a track to follow.

In many cases I actually will only use the razor knife to minimize my potential of slipping with any power tool. You will not go all the way thru the panel. But continue to score the line until you get it deep enough to penetrate all the way thru it. I hate splintering cut outs. I also use a small ruler for a straight edge for this job and cut along the nice straight edge. It does not slip in the finished section that may not be hidden by the controller when mounted.

I will add that with the size TT you are talking about, your roof area is fairly limited with a lot of solar wattage if you go solely with the cheaper ones thats limited in put out.

So while many of the kits offer the complete rigging package, you don't need a lot of whatever comes with the kits thats normally cheaper with introductory wattage.

So spend your money on single larger wattage panels, to minimize the room that is required with many of the single 100 watt type panels thats sold in the kits.

[stinger608]

That is an excellent DIY instruction you posted up Jim!!!!

And, as you pointed out, using an oscillator tool with a quality blade, makes all the difference in the world.

Exactly what I used and it went smooth and was a breeze to cut the paneling in our trailer.

[Toad]

We have a 2020 232RB
On our A frame up front we have a "solar ready" connection with no junction connect on the roof.
I was told the A frame connection is for a solar and controller to connect at that point.
I am assuming portable units only unless we run a wire to the roof for permanent connection.

Originally Posted by AZMan

I have a Jay Flight 195RB and is has solar "pre-wire" tags.
What does this mean? Where are the wires located? Are there You Tubes for do-it-yourselfers?

[CUCraigT]

Thanks so much for asking the question and for the great answers. I just got my Jay Flight 267BHS a little over a month ago and was doing some of the same investigation. It is prewired with the Go Power system. However, I cannot find a sticker on the wall. I contacted Jayco who told me where it should be. Any way to figure that out without just cutting the wall and hoping?

Also, are there any similar Go Power systems similar to the Renogy one posted that I can buy?

Finally, I understand the wires should be coming down the wall from the Go Power connector on the roof, but are the battery connections in the wall at the solar controller location as well?


Thanks!

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by Toad

We have a 2020 232RB
On our A frame up front we have a "solar ready" connection with no junction connect on the roof.
I was told the A frame connection is for a solar and controller to connect at that point.
I am assuming portable units only unless we run a wire to the roof for permanent connection.

First a warning. Depending on the "brand" of what's generically called "solar on the side" (which is also a brand), you must first verify the polarity of the socket on the rig.

There are several brands, "Zamp" and "Solar on the Side" being just two of them. With the intent of making their designs somewhat proprietary, one or more of these systems is "wired backwards" compared to the typical convention. This phenomenon is so common, however, that many "SAE" CONNECTOR extension cords come with polarity reversers (the little black adapter pictured with the cord).

What you need to determine polarity is a simple multimeter set on DC volts to determine which "pin" in the trailer-mounted socket is 12 volts and which is ground. Then look at the connector on your portable/suitcase solar panel and verify if "+" will connect to the 12-volts DC side of the socket on your rig...or if you need to use the adapter. You don't need to spend a ton of money on the meter...you're not building a rocket control computer...just doing basic tests. But if you want a great brand for not too much money, go with the Klein. It will last you a lifetime. (I have a 30 year old Radio Shack multimeter that has served me very well...I probably paid $5 for it.)

With that out of the way, the next thing you need to know is that you don't connect your solar panels directly to the battery. The panels connect to a solar charge controller, and the charge controller connects to the socket on your rig. The charge controller is essential for MANAGING the power from the panels...only charging as needed and only as much as is needed.

I have this nice "suitcase" solar system from Renogy. Note that it comes with the essential weatherproof charge controller built onto the frame. Renogy makes good stuff, with one caveat. The crimp connectors that connect the panel wires to the charge controller and the output wires to the charge controller are inferior. I replaced mine using a kit like this one. Seems like a PITA, but you'll need a kit like this anyway sooner or later. The "fix" is very easy.

Choices in suitcase solar kits are abundant. I chose mine, because I have faith in Renogy products, and the panels and frame are hefty and sturdy...a good feature to have in windy Colorado Rocky Mountains. Mine have endured 50+ MPH winds without moving. But it is heavy...about 35 pounds. It's also large: stowed, it's a bit less than 2 feet by 4 feet, and it's about 4 feet square when set up. Given your A-Frame rig, you'll have to put some thought into storage/transport. Perhaps they can ride on one of your beds.

Also note that a major advantage of suitcase solar is the ability to park your rig in the shade and place the panels in the sun. For that, you'll need one or more extension cords like the one I linked to above. DO NOT CHEAP OUT on these cords. Buy the #10 AWG cord (not the lighter #12 or lighter still #14), because as you pile on the distance you pile on the resistance in light gauge wire. Instead of charging your battery, some of the solar energy goes up as heat in the resistance of your wire...lost power due to cheap wire. As an FYI, with DC current, the wire distance is "out and back." In other words, if you use a 20 foot extension cord, its "wire length" is actually 40 feet. 2 extension cords (which I often use) means 80 feet plus the wire on the suitcase system and the wire between your solar on the side connection and the battery. #10 AWG isn't even enough for 200 watts/10 amps output of the solar system over a distance of 80 wire feet.

I have Starlink. We setup camp in May, and we don't go home until mid to late September. We work from camp all summer. The Gen-3 Starlink is power hungry...up to 8 amps at 12 volts. Over the course of a 10 hour day of using it for work (which I do), it will consume between 40 and 40 amp hours...more power than is available from a little group 24 marine lead acid battery supplied with most rigs. I need my solar to be able to keep up with that demand and simultaneously recharge my battery bank for all the other loads. I run 400 watts of solar on the roof and the 200 watts of suitcase to do that job. And I have 2 golf cart batteries with 115 USABLE Amp Hours (AH) of charge (which will be replaced with lithium (LiFePo4) when they die.

But for routine loads, a 200 watt portable suitcase system will do a great job if there is decent sun available. But here's the rub. Everything depends on your fridge. If you have an "old fashioned" absorption (120 volts/PROPANE) fridge, count your lucky stars. When boondocking (which I assume is why you want solar), they place virtually no drain on your battery. BUT IF YOU HAVE A 12-Volt compressor fridge, all bets are off. One of those 12-volt compressor fridges will eat a typical, dealer supplied group 24 marine battery per day every day, all day...leaving NOTHING for your other loads. While the solar can replace the power used during the day and leave you a full charge for night, your nightime loads will inhale your battery...and that fridge will still be sucking power, too. If you have a compressor fridge...we need to talk.

[CUCraigT]

Appreciate the additional information, Jim! I have figured out a few things from my question above. Basically I contacted Jayco as well as looked at pictures from other 267BHS and determined the approximate location for the charge controller. You mention reverse polarity adapters and all, but can anyone let me know what I will need to use this Renogy system (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Solar-...1zcF9hdGY&th=1) with the Go Power connector on my roof?

TIA!

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by CUCraigT

Appreciate the additional information, Jim! I have figured out a few things from my question above. Basically I contacted Jayco as well as looked at pictures from other 267BHS and determined the approximate location for the charge controller. You mention reverse polarity adapters and all, but can anyone let me know what I will need to use this Renogy system (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Solar-...1zcF9hdGY&th=1) with the Go Power connector on my roof?

TIA!

I responded to TOAD regarding potential reverse polarity for his "solar-on-the-side" connection on the A-Frame of his trailer.

The gland on the roof of your rig should be clearly marked for positive (+) and negative (-).
If there is no label inside, then Jayco needs to tell you where the wire is routed. No label suggests that GoPower, which is often a dealer installed option, is not expecting a DIY installation, but there's no reason you can't as long as you can locate the wiring in the wall.

To be clear, "Pre-Wired for Solar" usually only means that there is a gland on the roof; that wire comes down from that gland to a known location to connect to a solar charge controller input; and that a second wire that connects to the charge controller output goes on to tie into the wire between your converter and your battery...in parallel. That's it, that's all. No magic and nothing proprietary about it.

No label is either an oversight or deliberate, but either way, Jayco should be able to give you precise directions to locate the wires in the wall. I have a Jayco, and my 2020 rig had a label. So I suspect this is an oversight.

As for compatibility with the Renogy system, the Renogy system makes "first contact" with the pre-wired system at the gland. All you need is connectors that are compatible with the gland. WORST case scenario is that you have to buy a pair of GoPower connectors. But looking at what are called GoPower connectors and Renogy connectors, I believe they are standardized...meaning the only difference is the brand. In fact, if you Google or search Amazon, they largely present you with multiple brands including Bouge, and so on. Like most things electrical, they are uniform in design.

Inside, there is NOTHING to differentiate. #10 AWG wire with nothing attached (except, possibly, wire nuts on the positive -red- wires to insulate from a short) comes down from the roof and a second one goes on to connect with the main wire connecting the converter and the battery bank. You strip the insulation, and ideally "tin" the ends with solder or add a ferrule to keep the strands together, loosen the set screws on the charge controller, insert wire into the appropriate connector, and tighten. You could also use crimp-on connectors to insert into the screw lugs on the charge controller. Just be sure to get a crimp on designed for a screw lug. I prefer tinning with solder because it's less complicated.

That part is easy.

The hard part for you is locating the wires in the wall, attaching the panels to the roof, and cutting the hole for the charge controller. I described cutting the hole previously. The missing label is your problem to resolve. As for attaching the panels to the roof, here's my recommendation:

Get the following:
~ two brand new, high quality drill bits of the proper size for pilot holes for the "drill point lag screws" provided in the kit. This is VERY important, because you want a very sharp, smoot edged bit to cut through your roof membrane without tearing it. EPDM is tough, as are other roof products on RVs, but the crude drill points on the lag screws could cost you dearly if one of them snags and rips up your roof. The bit size should match the diameter of the drill point on the screw...or perhaps one size smaller.
~ butyl tape - minimum 3/4" wide
~ Dicor self-leveling lap sealant
~ Gorilla Glue
~ Ruler, chalk line
~ Crimping tool for the connectors on the solar wire on the roof
Wire cutting pliers.
Wire stripper
Carpenter's knife with a fresh blade.
Drill.
Hand nut driver set for tightening the drill-point lag screws provided in the kit.
Even if your rig has a built on ladder, a conventional extension ladder makes it much easier to carry stuff up onto the roof, and it can be located wherever it works best. On my rig, the "rain gutters" and awning have no problem supporting the ladder.

WORK IN WARM WEATHER!! This is important for the butyl tape, Dicor, and Gorilla Glue.
Optional...I did this: Clean and seal your roof.
NOT optional, if you don't do the avove, you must spot clean your roof with rubbing alcohol or similar, because butyl tape and Dicor won't stick to dirt.
Disconnect your battery. Don't rely on the switch...disconnect the wires from the battery proper.
Layout your panel locations. Consider where you need to walk on the roof for maintenance, etc. Decide where the panels will go. Use the chalk line if needed to line up the panels. I chose my locations for clear, easy access to the roof, the ability to add more panels, and because sunny Colorado is more tolerant of less than perfect sun angles. Out here, at high altitudes with lots of sun, the less-than-ideal angle is an insignificant loss...borne out by the power production on the charge controller's display. Your situation may require more concern about maximum sun capture.
Attach the brackets to the panels.
Locate the panels and drill pilot holes.
Use rubbing alcohol to remove the chalk-line and/or pencil marks once the holes are drilled so there's no gap in adhesion of the butyl tape and Dicor.
Assemble the wiring between panels for parallel and/or series wiring and combine all wires to form the primary output from your panel array. Leave enough slack so you can tuck things away out of sight once you are done. You MIGHT need to makeup short jumper wires so you can get all connectioins assembled in one place as a single output pair.
With everything more or less pre-assembled, work one panel at a time.
Squirt a bit of Gorilla Glue into the pilot holes...this will act like a "LocTite" on the lag screw. Note that Gorilla glue likes to work with water, so follow the instructions.
Add butyl tape UNDER the brackets...it squashes out and forms the primary seal between the panel and the roof.
Push the lags gently through the butyl tape so you can see the screw points, but don't otherwise damage or dislodge the butyl tape. Use an artist's brush or similar to dampen the threads on the screws...per Gorilla Glue instructions.
Locate the panel brackets over the pilot holes, double check your wire routing, and screw down the first panel.
Rinse and repeat until all panels are mounted.
VERY, VERY IMPORTANT. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE LAGS WITH A POWER TOOL. YOU CAN DRIVE THEM IN MOST OF THE WAY WITH A DRILL OR IMPACT DRIVER, BUT YOU MUST DO THE FINAL TIGHTENING BY HAND OR RISK STRIPPING OUT THE SCREW HOLE. The sheathing on most RV roofs is typically only 3/8" strand board...what they laughingly call plywood. Whether strand board or real plywood, 3/8" is THIN and easy to strip out. You get one chance at this, so tighten your screws by hand!! Do not overtighten. Just compress the butyl tape and snug things up. The Gorilla glue will take it from there.
Next, make up your feed wire from the final "collector" connections for the 4 panels. Add connectors on the two wires...female on one end and male on the other...Times Two. From there, the design of the connectors on the gland and on the collector connection will dictate polarity. Be sure to make these wires long enough so the entire "mess" at the panels end of the wire can be tucked away under a panel out of sight.
Do NOT be concerned about anchoring the solar wire between the panels and the gland. If you plan well, the distance will be short and air drag will have no impact on the wires.
READ THE CHARGE CONTROLLER INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO SELECT BETWEEN LEAD ACID BATTERIES AND "LITHIUM" BATTERIES. This will likely be a selectable "setting" in the charge controller...as opposed to a slide switch or similar on the back of the controller. Determine this first before you start to connect.
Inside, connect the output side of the charge controller to the wires to the battery FIRST. The charge controller wants to see a load before it sees the panels.
CONNECT YOUR BATTERY...AND BE SURE THE BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH IS "ON". At this point, your charge controller will come alive, and you should see a fully charged battery reading about 12.5 volts...or 13.5 volts if you are still connected to shore power.
If you are connected to shore power, disconnect so shore power is not confusing things...the charge controller can "see" battery voltage supplied from solar and/or shore power.
Next, connect the wire from the panels to the input side of the charge controller.
Test the system. Make sure the solar array is "charging." A fully charged battery will still accept about 0.5 AMPS of charge as a maintenance/trickle charge from the solar. Obviously, you need sun for this, but it will test adequately even in the shade. The panels will still put out several amps even in deep shade during midday.
If you have lead acid batteries, the voltage reading should be about 13.5 volts...charging voltage. If you have LiFePo4 batteries, the charging voltage should be more likek 14.5 volts.
If all goes well - and if you took your time making up the cables connecting the gland to your panel array, there's no reason it shouldn't - your system will be working.
Then, and ONLY then, apply Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant generously to every screw head anchoring the panels.
While you're up there, inspect your roof and use the remaining lap sealant to seal any suspect areas, bubbles in factory sealant, and so on.

OPTIONAL: You can add a double-pole-single-throw switch in the line between the solar panels (gland) and the charge controller. This is nice if you need to disconnect your battery bank during the day when the panels are making power. The charge controller will thank you. Otherwise you must work at night or cover your panels to avoid the risk of damaging your charge controller.

Finally, some will recommend using rails and roof racks of some sort to hold the panels. This is not wrong, but I think it's unnecessary. In the end, you must mount whatever you mount to either the roof or the rig's side walls...drilling holes and screwing things in regardless. There is no inherent advantage of one over the other except possibly flexibility of panel location in the future. Holes in the roof are holes in the roof. I'm a fan of direct mounting. The panels come with brackets that allow for adequate ventilation and cooling of the panels in full sun, so...

I shared this photo before, but this illustrates how the cables can be fully "dressed" under the panels with only the main connector exposed on the roof.

If you can't get Jayco to provide VERIFIABLE info on the location of the missing label over the phone, this is a WARRANTY ISSUE, and you should go back to the dealer and have them do it. The rig was advertized as wired for solar, and that label is a crucial part of that feature they sold you and you paid for.

PS, Yes, this is a book...perhaps "epic"-length. It was more difficult and complicated to write this than it is to actually do the work. If you have decent DIY skills, this is NOT a difficult job.

[CUCraigT]

Wow. This is awesome. Thank you so much for taking the time to walk through this, Jim!

I did reach out to Jayco and they provided where the sticker should have been. Unfortunately I bought this TT used, so trying to get what I can from Jayco.

One quick question. For the double-pole-single-pole switch between the panel and the solar controller, where have you placed that? Right beside the solar controller?

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by CUCraigT

Wow. This is awesome. Thank you so much for taking the time to walk through this, Jim!

I did reach out to Jayco and they provided where the sticker should have been. Unfortunately I bought this TT used, so trying to get what I can from Jayco.

One quick question. For the double-pole-single-pole switch between the panel and the solar controller, where have you placed that? Right beside the solar controller?

Anywhere that's convenient. This is "low" voltage DC, so it doesn't need a box. Use your oscillating tool (mentioned elsewhere) to cut a hole just large enough for the switch body near the charge controller. While the switch is marked for positive and negative for 120 volt AC, you needn't worry about that. Switches also have "gozinta" and "gozouta" (load) sides...if you figure out which is which, and if you have the wire to spare, that's nice, but not necessary. Gozinta is usually on the bottom, because in much conventional wiring, off is down and the live feed wire comes in at the bottom. Just be consistent and connect the red wire from the panels to one side, and have a "red" wire come out of the switch on the same side. And same with the ground. In on top or bottom and out on bottom or top in matched sets.

You'll probably need to buy some short lengths of #10 AWG wire to jumper from the switch to the charge controller...it's highly unlikely that there's enough spare inside the wall to harvest any. In fact, in my rig, they cheated me on wire length, and I needed to extend one of the 4 strands about 10 inches to make the connections onto the charge controller. So a short bit of #10 in red and white will come in handy.

If you are tidy with the hole, you can use some conventional sheetmetal screws (what is used everywhere for pretty much everything in an RV) to fasten the switch to the wall paneling, then just add a cover plate. Be sure to leave enough room between the switch and the charge controller so the cover plate fits...the cover plates tend to be surprisingly large to cover the gap in conventional electrical boxes.

Note on the switch. This is an AC switch. They are not ideal for DC switching, but this will do the job for years, because you'll only switch it rarely. If you want to "baby" the switch, turn it off or on at night, but frankly I wouldn't worry about it. If arcing during the live switching damages the contacts, replace it. You'd know by seeing lower than typical numbers on your charge controller display. This is all pretty hypothetical...the switch will do just fine. And the price for a DC 30 amp double pole single throw switch will startle you. Not to mention that most are oddball things that won't trim out nicely. It's the kind of stuff you you see on the tongue of your rig...ugly and weird.

I didn't know about this when I installed my system, so I have no such switch. It can be a PITA to mess with my batteries on a nice, sunny day.