What size electric drill?

[Bigdomino]

Bought a new Whitehawk 27DRLS. did not order electric jacks. What size electric drill should I get yo raise and lower jacks? Als could the drill handle a rim if I had a flat?

Steve

[homer1959]

18 to 20 volts with an half inch chuck will to the trick and many other task, and no a drill wont fit the bill for wheelnut, you will need an electric impact good to a minimum of 150 foot pounds of torque if you want to do the trailer and the truck...

[wags999]

Originally Posted by Bigdomino

Bought a new Whitehawk 27DRLS. did not order electric jacks. What size electric drill should I get yo raise and lower jacks? Als could the drill handle a rim if I had a flat?

Steve

Congratulations on your purchase. As homer said a good 1/2" 18 to 20 volt drill will cover your needs. For your flat tire get a good roadside service! LOL You should have a year of coverage with your RV purchase.

Enjoy

[RAurand]

I use a 18V battery powered drill to raise and lower my scissor jacks (Take your charger along just in case).
NO, the drill will not handle the lug nuts. Too tight. I carry a cross-bar lug wrench to get them off on the road if I would get a flat or have an issue. At home, I use an air impact wrench to remove the lug nuts.

[Jagiven]

If you want to use it to change a flat, you need a heavy duty impact driver, ideally one that uses compressed air. I have a very good heavy duty 20v dewalt, and it struggled to break the lug nuts free on my every day car. I had to do about half the lug nuts by hand (20" breaker bar makes easy work of it).

Personally I hate impact drivers at camp. They are obnoxiously loud. If all want to do is raise and lower the stabilizers, any cheap cordless drill will work. The stabilizers are not made to lift the tt, just to support some of the weight. A drill is quiet.

[RogerR]

I use a 12 volt Craftsman drill that works for me, I don't try to raise the trailer with the drill, only land it firmly. Legs are not really designed to lift most RVs anyway.

I level first with my andersen camper levelers and the electric hitch jack. Then put down my legs to prevent shake, rattle and roll.

[Tunce the traveler]

You don't need a drill for your scissor jacks doing it by hand crank is easy. My DW ( 100 lbs. wet) and myself are 70+ and it's no problem.

[rkresge]

X2 on most of these comments. I'm using this 18v cordless drill from Harbor Freight:

18 Volt 1/2 in. Cordless Variable Speed Drill/Driver

And I'm using this Camco drill socket. It's almost always on the shelf at Walmart, and you can find it at any RV accessory store:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Lev...ocket/29764655

Good luck! But no impact drivers in camp!!!

Roger

[seadeals]

I bought a porter cable 18 volt 3/8 impact on sale. It has plenty of power but I am cautious about the noise it can make when using on the jacks. I still use it but gently pull on the jack from the up position to keep the clutch from kicking in until it touches down, then just a bump or two to lift slightly. For morning/evening setup or tear down I will use the hand bar as a courtesy. It is a handy tool to have around regardless. I also love my mini Makita blower!

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by seadeals

I bought a (edited) 18 volt 3/8 impact. It has plenty of power but I am cautious about the noise it can make when using on the jacks. I still use it but gently pull on the jack from the up position to keep the clutch from kicking in until it touches down, then just a bump or two to lift slightly. For morning/evening setup or tear down I will use the hand bar as a courtesy. It is a handy tool to have around regardless. ...snip

Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler

You don't need a drill for your scissor jacks doing it by hand crank is easy. My DW ( 100 lbs. wet) and myself are 70+ and it's no problem.

Kinda' like these. Setting up, I run each jack down with the drill till it touches. The jacks are clean and lubed so there is no 'hammering' doing that. With the clutch set at about half power, it 'hammers' for less than a second when the base touches down. Then, after the slide is out, I 'hit' the curb side jacks again for less than a second (they are usually loose due to the slide weight being shifted from the middle to the side).

Every day or so, I check the tension on the jacks with the hand crank. Like others, I don't like the sound of the drill when it is hammering so avoid using it just to check the tension.

[TaftCoach]

By hand isn't a big deal for me. But sometimes I'll have my old 12V Hitachi drill available. It doesn't get used for much more than that. Iirc I used carrying the Hitachi as an excuse to buy a nicer Dewalt drill.

The views expressed may not be mine in five minutes.

[repacs0103]

I used my 18v ryobis. Nothing big is needed. I found it was too much torque on the drill right at the moment the stabilizers tensioned out though, especially if they were near full extension, so I switched to the impact. As to the noise, it's no louder than everyone's AC units and only gets louder than a drill when It's torquing at the end of travel for a second or 2.


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[Brownie]

I bought the lug nut driver when I bought my other "must have" supplies - shortly after I bought my trailer. Used it with my DeWalt drill/driver on my first trip. I found that it takes more time to get out the drill, unbox it, install the nut driver, lower the jacks with the drill, remove the nut driver, rebox the drill and put it away, than it did to just grab the manual hand crank and use it.

It's really not that difficult!

As for the lug nuts on your tires: remember, they need to be properly torqued (see your owner's manual for proper torqueing specs). You should carry a good quality torque wrench in addition to your regular lug wrench. I also found that a standard depth lug wrench is too shallow for the trailer lugs. Slipped off and rounded out one of the lug nuts the first time I used it. I picked up a deep socket that I use with the long handle of my 1/2" drive socket wrench set.

Works well for me!

[Hohenwald48]

Black & Decker 18V drill with 2 batteries and charger. $49 at any WalMart. I just leave it in the trailer and alternate batteries.


I also have a B&D battery powered blower I leave in the trailer. Works great for blowing off the camp site and uses the same batteries.

[Kenelz]

I'm an old guy, and don't have any problem using the hand crank. I do spray the jack screw threads with a dry graphite spray from Tractor Supply, called "Dry-Slide" or something like that. I also block up under each jack. I have some light pine 10X10 blocks, I don't have to crank much, and the trailer is very stable.

[homer1959]

I rather hear an impact for 2mn than a stupid wind chimes for the whole week end ............I hate those wind chimes with a passion, give me the sound of an impact gun any time before the sound of those tube from hell

[64osby]

Originally Posted by Kenelz

... I also block up under each jack. I have some light pine 10X10 blocks, I don't have to crank much, and the trailer is very stable.

The effective load capacity of the jacks is very low when not fully extended.

This is from one of the manufactures.

"Never exceed the Jack’s capacity of 5,000 lb. Check the trailer or RV’s manual to
determine the actual gross weight before attempting to level it. This Jack’s weight
capacity is 5,000 lb. only between 13-3/4” and 23-1/2”; the weight capacity drastically
reduces as the height drops below this level. Do not apply a load to this
jack below 13-3/4” in height."

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by 64osby

The effective load capacity of the jacks is very low when not fully extended.

I think he was referring more towards stability than load. The trailer will be more stable the less the stabilizers travel.

[Ottawasteve]

I have been impressed with the Sears Craftsman 19.2V 1/2 inch drill and the other tools in the series. I leave the stabilizer chuck in the drill because it is one of the first things we use upon arrival to lower stabilizers and the last tool we use on departure because it also works on the WD jacks on our Propride hitch.

I have the 19.2V impact wrench which has 200 ft/lbs of torque and has no problems popping the lugs off the trailer wheels. I have not had the opportunity to use on the TV yet but I am confident it will work when needed. There is also an HD impact with 300 ft.lbs if you need more torque. I use the 19.2V compressor/inflator which works great when checking tire pressures and inflating bike tires. We also have the 19.2V wet/dry vacuum dustbuster for cleaning up spills in the trailer. I also carry the 19.2V reciprocating saw for one handed removal of low hanging branches (without breaking a sweat) which could damage the TT when backing in at some of the State Parks that we go to. The reciprocating saw also works great for silencing wind chimes.

Without batteries, each tool only weighs a couple of pounds and we only have one charger and set of batteries. While definitely not the equivalent of Dewalt, they have enough power for all the tasks around the campsite without the need for plugs or electricity.

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by Ottawasteve

snip...The reciprocating saw also works great for silencing wind chimes....snip

Reason enough right there!