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Old 06-02-2016, 05:52 PM   #31
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I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done. If you look under the existing couch, you'll see the storage box for the power cord. I took out the couch and box last weekend, which took about 15 minutes.


I had to remove the plywood box and install the 30 amp conversion kit (Marinco)so the new couch will fit.


The metal J box was mounted to the floor, so I moved it up on the back wall for more floor clearance.


I put all the existing 12 volt wiring(mainly taillights), CATV coax, and even the 10 gauge romex into wire loom just for a neater appearance, even though no one will see it and clamped it to the rear wall.


All this wiring is pretty much loose behind the couch.


Also before the couch goes in, I'm installing a hard wired surge protector in line with the power cord and attaching it to the rear wall. It has a remote readout to monitor voltage and current draw that I will mount in the storage area above the water pump & water heater.


I'll give more info & pics next week after I'm finished. 1 thing to be aware of in this floor plan is access to the 3 pull out drawers will be limited because of the depth of my sofa/recliner.


I bought a recliner with the least amount of depth I could find but by my measurements, there is no way around it, and it will partially block the drawers from opening all the way.


But comfortable seating is the #1 priority and sacrifices in other area's come with the territory.


Looking forward to getting this done
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:23 PM   #32
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I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done. If you look under the existing couch, you'll see the storage box for the power cord. I took out the couch and box last weekend, which took about 15 minutes.
Looking forward to seeing your project. DW may be happy if I just get her a nice ottoman to stretch her legs out on. (May have to get one for myself, too.)
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:45 PM   #33
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We have a different trailer, but had the same problem. We took it to the dealer, and they installed a new strip. They said the problem in our case was that it's hotter here in Tucson than where it was manufactured, so it got out here and shrank. Fair enough. No problem since.
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:56 PM   #34
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Promised I'd post pix of the protective switch covers I just put on my awning and slide-out controls. Note in the shot with the wires that I had to disconnect the wires in order to mount the plate; if you do this, be VERY careful not to lose any wires in the wall!!! (Paranoid I am.)
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TT Switch Covers 1.jpg   TT Switch Covers 2.jpg   TT Switch Covers 3.jpg  
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:01 PM   #35
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Promised I'd post pix of the protective switch covers I just put on my awning and slide-out controls. Note in the shot with the wires that I had to disconnect the wires in order to mount the plate; if you do this, be VERY careful not to lose any wires in the wall!!! (Paranoid I am.)
Roger

Thanks for the pics!
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:58 PM   #36
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rkresge, I like your covers. Where did you purchase them? What type of covers are they? I saw that you took your controls off of the wall. Was that a necessity or an exploratory move? Could you just have used pop rivets instead of the screws? You made them look good, as well as doing a job needed.
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:01 PM   #37
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rkresge, I like your covers. Where did you purchase them? What type of covers are they? I saw that you took your controls off of the wall. Was that a necessity or an exploratory move? Could you just have used pop rivets instead of the screws? You made them look good, as well as doing a job needed.
Got 'em at Home Depot, they're Bell MX1050Z. Price is $3.49 each. Frankly they're not as deep as I would like, so the cover does not quite close all the way. Also, the slide-out switch is a little too close to the sensor panel, so the tab hits the sensor panel. I didn't feel like the extra work involved in moving the whole setup a quarter of an inch up, so I just left it as is.

Other covers may provide a better fit, but these suited me. You'd have to take measurements of your switches and see what's available.

The switches would not fit through the covers no matter what I did, so taking the switches off the wall *and* disconnecting the wires was absolutely necessary. I guess you could use pop rivets if you wanted to, but the existing switches are mounted with screws so I just went with that.

Roger
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:52 PM   #38
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I'll be watching for the gap at the trim. We bought ours in August and just noticed in April the front Diamond plate was buckled and detached at the bottom. It's booked in to get repaired in Sept when there's no rush. The trim looks to be ok at this time. I added a support on the under side to keep the plate in place until it goes in to get repaired or replaced.
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:17 AM   #39
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rkresge, my trailer is in storage so when I get it this weekend I'll check that area to see if I have the same issue.


I don't know how your dealer service is, but here in SoCal it takes 3 + weeks to even get a unit in for any kind of warranty work.


I would fix it on my own since you have a trip planned, but take photos to show the dealer and have them replace the trim later.


My 23RLSW is only 2 months old, but you want see crap work take a look at these pics of the door lock dead bolt. I have a warranty claim now with Jayco to make them replace the door and door frame. No excuse for this kind of work.

I don't want to get started on quality again, we'll just leave it at that.Attachment 24558

Attachment 24559

Attachment 24560
Not sure who your dealer is but I'm in SoCal too and both times we've had it in for repairs so far we were in and out in a week or less. That's with a prior appointment. Not just dropping in unannounced.

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Old 06-04-2016, 07:49 AM   #40
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Country Mouse, Richardson's in Menifee. I took it in for them to look at the door lock issue and they told me once it's decided on what to do, and parts are in, it could be 2-3 weeks before it would be done.

It's the busiest time of year, that's what I was told anyway. Depends on service bay space, how long other units sit waiting for parts, etc, etc.
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