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Old 12-30-2015, 11:22 AM   #31
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Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?
I do the 'x-type' chocks, left and right side, before running out the side. I do that primarily because the slide hinders access to the left side tires.
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Old 12-30-2015, 11:30 AM   #32
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Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?
The first thing I do after side to side leveling is chock the wheels with wedges and X chocks so the trailer cannot move after unhitching. So my way is to chock before extending slide. Cannot really see where the slide would be a factor one way or the other except it may be in the way more of getting to your wheels if extended.
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Old 12-30-2015, 11:50 AM   #33
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Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?
I love the revival of old threads!!

I tend to put mine in before I run the slide out (at least on that side) but after I've leveled and dropped my stab jacks.

1) Level side-to-side with blocks under tires
2) Chock tires using wedge chocks
3) Unhook from truck
4) Level front to back
5) Drop stab jacks
6) Insert X-chocks
7) Run out slide

In that exact order, every time.

My slide comes out right over the axles, so if I wait until after I run out the slide, I have to crawl under there to install the X-chock, and that's no fun. Especially on rough asphalt or rocky dirt.
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:23 PM   #34
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Thank you everyone for quick detailed replies. I had my maiden voyage over Christmas and need to make some set up changes due to slide causing tilting. Never used the X-Chocks while there with so much going on and I had a lot of trailer movement while inside. Learning curve with all the new toys, hoping for a more "stable" experience next time.
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Old 12-30-2015, 01:31 PM   #35
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snip... Never used the X-Chocks while there with so much going on and I had a lot of trailer movement while inside. Learning curve with all the new toys, hoping for a more "stable" experience next time.
'X-type' chocks (I have the plastic Camco brand because they are cheaper) will help stabilize the trailer front to rear movement. They took out more movement than I expected.

We set the front and rear stabilizers before running out the slide and then re-tighten the stabilizers AFTER running out the slide; I snug up the slide side first. Invariably the non-slide side stabilizers are loose due to the slide weight on the opposite side. Often I go back and snug up the stabilizers the next day, too.

People and situations differ. DW and I with our 2 dogs are OK with the bounce. There are stabilizer products available to tame trailer movement, but other than mounting it on concrete blocks, IMHO there will always be some movement.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:19 PM   #36
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'X-type' chocks (I have the plastic Camco brand because they are cheaper) will help stabilize the trailer front to rear movement. They took out more movement than I expected.

We set the front and rear stabilizers before running out the slide and then re-tighten the stabilizers AFTER running out the slide; I snug up the slide side first. Invariably the non-slide side stabilizers are loose due to the slide weight on the opposite side. Often I go back and snug up the stabilizers the next day, too.

People and situations differ. DW and I with our 2 dogs are OK with the bounce. There are stabilizer products available to tame trailer movement, but other than mounting it on concrete blocks, IMHO there will always be some movement.
+1

I use the electric stabs that came on my trailer, x-chocks between the tires, and stack jacks under the frame near the axles (I just started putting them BEHIND the axles, instead of in front, and it seems to work a bit better). I put all of this down/on/in before I run the slide, and I always have to go back and snug the non-slide side stack jack (and I'll snug the electric stabs a little too). The slide pulls the trailer just enough to pull the frame off the stack jack on the opposite side. Next day I go back and snug again, but usually the stack jacks are still okay for the entire trip after I set them up this way.

All that, and there's still some wiggle. If I'm staying more than 2 nights, I'll put my other pair of stack jacks out, but I haven't gotten to go out for more than 2 nights since I got them!

My end goal is to replace the stack jacks with some scissor jacks because the stack jacks are finicky and difficult to use IMO. More difficult that putting my cordless drill on a regular scissor jack and zipping them down in about 5 seconds from a standing position instead of fiddling around on my knees!
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Old 12-30-2015, 04:03 PM   #37
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Great information, am taking all your suggestions with me next time. I just looked at stack/bottle jacks today and am considering adding to my leveling supplies. (will try the X-Chocks first since I already own them) Over the 5 nights of camping the movement increased quite a bit with a lot of squeaking under front of trailer outside. I did check/adjust stab jacks as needed w/out being too aggressive.

By end of trip the lean increased enough for bathroom door able to close easily on own. (will be running up on boards or Anderson leveler next time on driver side in hopes of countering once slide is out and compensate for soft ground under gravel) Was parked on gravel over dirt.

I was distracted by losing 1/4+ of my fresh water during travel, leak under kitchen sink, the inability to fire my water heater on electric (via Honda generator) and a seeping black tank valve.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:50 PM   #38
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Am I committing a sin?

i have just one set of solid wedge chocks. I place one at the front of the front tire and the other at the rear of the rear tire (dual axle trlr) before unhitching. Both on the driver's side. I've never had any issue. Am I just tempting fate or is this acceptable albeit minimal use of chocks? If I need to use leveling blocks on dvr side I would put the chocks ob the pass side.
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Old 12-30-2015, 08:27 PM   #39
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It depends on the slope I'm on. If it's fairly level, I'll put one in front of the back tire, and one behind the front tire on one side. Then I'll put a section of board between the two chocks to lock them in place.

If the site is sloped, I'll chock the downhill facing tires, both sides of the trailer.

Lots of times, I'll just find an appropriately sized and shaped rocks to use as a chocks, although I do have a pair of the orange plastic ones. The reason for the rocks is that many times I have to run the tires onto 2x10s to level the TT, and the orange plastic chocks just won't work.
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Old 12-30-2015, 08:28 PM   #40
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Am I committing a sin?

Quote:
Originally Posted by micron View Post
i have just one set of solid wedge chocks. I place one at the front of the front tire and the other at the rear of the rear tire (dual axle trlr) before unhitching. Both on the driver's side. I've never had any issue. Am I just tempting fate or is this acceptable albeit minimal use of chocks? If I need to use leveling blocks on dvr side I would put the chocks ob the pass side.
Of the two alternatives you offer, my money is on that you're tempting fate.

With chocks just on one side, if your trailer starts rolling, it will pivot. With chocks securely installed on both sides, it shouldn't roll or pivot. At a minimum, I suggest two more wedge chocks.

I'd also suggest a pair of 'X-type' chocks, either bought or home made. I've had the wedge type slip on the leveling blocks and that created more excitement than I ever wanted. I also like the fact that, as a bonus, the 'x-type' also take out some fore-and-aft trailer movement the wedge chocks don't.

Go and sin no more.
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