Wheel Chocks

[clubhouse]

This may be a silly question, but it is a question I have and maybe others do too.

While camping I see people chocking wheels differently, and I am curious if there is a "right way".

Specifically on dual axle or larger TT and 5rs do you chock the front and rear of a tire on a single axle or do you chock in front of the front tire and behind the rear tire?

[Crabman]

If using the yellow wedge chocks, I chock in front of the front tire and behind the rear tire on each side of the trailer. I have BAL X chocks which go between the tires and tighten with a ratchet wrench, which is another option that also helps keep the trailer from rocking as much.

[Rustic Eagle]

X2

[familybonding]

I don't know if it is the "right way" or not, but I have a dual axle TT so I chock the drivers side front axle, front and back of tire, and passenger side rear axle, front and back of tire. Seems logical that the TT should not be able to go anywhere with that combo.

[3'senough]

I do the same as crab man with the x-chocks in the middle. Definitely 4 chocks, 2 on each side.

[usmc616]

I place a yellow wheel chock behind the front tire and one inf ront of the rear tire. This way both chocks are between the tires.

[Denise]

Do the chocks in front/behind (both) before unhooking tt. If tires are hot, check the chocks one more time before you actually unhook the tt. Some people rely on x-chalks... experience speaking, never rely on x-chalks! IF you do use x-chalks (secondary to chalking tires!), definitely check both the chalks and x-chalks prior to actually unhooking. Set the timer for 30 minutes to remind you to once again check the chalks or tighten the x-chalks after you actually unhitch!

No matter, if you drove for more than a few minutes, double check the chocks! When hot, those tires will 'shrink' and your tt will move resulting in pressure on your hitch (been ther dun that)

[David472]

Originally Posted by usmc616

I place a yellow wheel chock behind the front tire and one inf ront of the rear tire. This way both chocks are between the tires.

I also place the wheel chock behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire, both sides. Seems to me I read this in the Jayflight manual, but I would have done this anyway, as the chocks are captured between the wheels, less likely to slip away.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by healthi

Do the chocks in front/behind (both) before unhooking tt. If tires are hot, check the chocks one more time before you actually unhook the tt. Some people rely on x-chalks... experience speaking, never rely on x-chalks! IF you do use x-chalks (secondary to chalking tires!), definitely check both the chalks and x-chalks prior to actually unhooking. Set the timer for 30 minutes to remind you to once again check the chalks or tighten the x-chalks after you actually unhitch!

No matter, if you drove for more than a few minutes, double check the chocks! When hot, those tires will 'shrink' and your tt will move resulting in pressure on your hitch (been ther dun that)

Another consideration regarding the x chocks is the slim but possible chance of a tire going flat after you have chocked which would cause the chock to fall down.

[Denise]

Originally Posted by Crabman

Another consideration regarding the x chocks is the slim but possible chance of a tire going flat after you have chocked which would cause the chock to fall down.

Yup! No matter if you chock or X-chock! Good point Crabby!

[David472]

Originally Posted by David472

I also place the wheel chock behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire, both sides. Seems to me I read this in the Jayflight manual, but I would have done this anyway, as the chocks are captured between the wheels, less likely to slip away.

Actually, it was in the manual for the Equalizer hitch.

[clubhouse]

Thank you everyone for the replies. Sounds like this may be a matter of preference more than correct vs incorrect way.

[Wyotraveler]

Originally Posted by clubhouse

This may be a silly question, but it is a question I have and maybe others do too.

While camping I see people chocking wheels differently, and I am curious if there is a "right way".

Specifically on dual axle or larger TT and 5rs do you chock the front and rear of a tire on a single axle or do you chock in front of the front tire and behind the rear tire?

I've used these for about 15 years. They are slightly different from 15 years ago but not much. Mine just have large thumb screws. They work well on tandem axles.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...eel-chock/5623

[gilldawg79]

I made some like this....They work great, and I throw a couple of regular plastic ones under there too....They virtually eliminate the rocking while moving around in the trailer.

http://travelingtek.com/2010/10/10/h...-wheel-chocks/

[cheetahflip]

I just received my BAL X-Chocks in the mail today. They now contain a single slip of paper of WARNINGS. They are as follows:
1. Do not use the BAL Chock as a parking brake for your trailer
2. Be sure to level your 5th wheel or trailer before installing BAL chock between tires
3. Remove the BAL chock from your tires before connecting the trailer to the tow vehicle
4. Operating the 5th wheel landing gear jacks or the trailer tongue jack(up and down) can cause unnecessary stress to the BAL chock. If you do not remove the BAL chock from your tires before operating your trailer's jacks could damage the Chock and void the Manufacturer's warranty.
Just an FYI

[drfife]

Originally Posted by cheetahflip

...
1. Do not use the BAL Chock as a parking brake for your trailer
2. Be sure to level your 5th wheel or trailer before installing BAL chock between tires
3. Remove the BAL chock from your tires before connecting the trailer to the tow vehicle
4. Operating the 5th wheel landing gear jacks or the trailer tongue jack(up and down) can cause unnecessary stress to the BAL chock. If you do not remove the BAL chock from your tires before operating your trailer's jacks could damage the Chock and void the Manufacturer's warranty.

So, what is the purpose of the chocks?

You aren't supposed to use them as a parking brake to prevent the trailer from rolling.

You are supposed to remove them before hitching? Can't the trailer move if the wheels aren't chocked?

I've used the same set of BAL Deluxe Tire Locking Chocks for 12 years. I use them as a parking brake and when I hitch to prevent the trailer from rolling.

When I buy a 5th wheel I'll retire the BAL Deluxe Tire Locking Chocks and replace them with Rotochocks.

[norty1]

Sounds like the legal dept. memo got adapted as gospel.

I agree with drfife, what are they for then? I have had Rotochoks for years. They are the best, so get them first and save your money on the other stuff.

[cheetahflip]

The BAL website essentially says to use in conjunction with traditional "wedge" style wheel chocks while hooking/unhooking and while leveling. X-chocks are for removing the front to back rocking motion and to stabilize wheels.
From website ---
NOTE: BAL's chocks are designed for locking trailer tires when camping. They should be put in place after disconnecting from your tow vehicle and after putting down your stabilizing jacks. They should be removed prior to hooking up to your tow vehicle. Failure to do so may damage your chocks. To avoid undesired trailer movement when disconnecting or hooking up to your tow vehicle, a tire "wedge" should be firmly placed behind one, or preferably both rear trailer tires.
From website---
WHY USE BAL DESIGNED AND PATENTED TRAILER CHOCKS?
To virtually eliminate the front to rear rocking movement in trailers of all kinds, BAL has designed and patented a line of wheels chocks to fit every trailer's needs.

[cheetahflip]

Also direct from BAL website---
TRAVEL TRAILERS

Setup:
Step 1: Get your trailer as level as possible from side to side by driving your low side tire(s) up on blocks. Before disconnecting from your tow vehicle, place a "wedge" chock behind each rear tire.
Step 2: Disconnect from your tow vehicle.
Step 3: Using your tongue jack, level your trailer from front to rear.
Step 4: Extend all four of your RV jacks to the ground using the handle provided with your jacks. It is a good idea to use a hard piece of wood or other block under the jacks' foot pads to prevent them from sinking into soft surfaces. If one side of your trailer is lower than the other, start on that side cranking down your jacks. Apply enough pressure to each jack to raise the trailer frame into a stable position. Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your trailer on your kitchen table or a counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble in the center of the level, is the side of the trailer you need to raise. You want to have equal pressure on each jack leg. To accomplish this, you must "feel" the crank pressure required to turn the jack screws on each of your trailer's jacks. When each screw requires the same pressure to turn it, then you have equal pressure on each jack. If you have good side to side stability in your trailer, stop cranking, if not crank a little more.
NOTE: Do not raise any tire off the ground by using your BAL jacks. If you apply too much pressure to the jacks, your doors and windows may not close properly or you may bend the jack leg(s).
Step 5: To get good front to rear stability, place one or two (for best results) of BAL's dual or triple axle locking chocks between your tires and tighten against tires to help eliminate your trailer's front to rear rocking. BAL has two locking chock models for you to choose from, model 28000 and model 28005. Since your trailer doesn't have a parking brake, chocks are necessary to prevent this rocking movement. Your jacks will eliminate some or most rocking, but not enough to satisfy most people.
Step 6: Each day re-check jack screws for tightness as jacks may settle into soft surfaces and become less stable. Tighten jack screws as needed.

Take Down:
Step 1: Place a wedge chock behind each rear tire.
Step 2: Remove tire locking chock(s).
Step 3: Raise jack legs and secure for travel. (cinch up tightly)
Step 4: Connect to tow vehicle.
Step 5: Test tow vehicle coupler connection by starting tow vehicle's engine, putting gear shift in reverse and removing foot from brake. If vehicle disconnects from coupler, re-hitch. If hitch and coupler connection is secure, then put vehicle in "park".
Step 6: Remove wedge chocks from behind rear tires.
Step 7: Pull forward or backwards and remove leveling block(s) under trailer's low side tire(s) if you used any.

[drfife]

Why would you choose the BAL X chocks over the BAL Deluxe Locking Chocks?