Wheel hub overheating and stuck

[joe w]

Originally Posted by Rock

U sure your brakes work. 105 is nothing my tires run hotter. I shoot my brake drum at 9 and 3 o’clock. Temps will be way higher after stopping. U must be checking temps at the rim cap and not drum hub. Center cap is not where to check.

Yep brakes work fine, always check them both before and during a trip. I let the tranny do the braking most always. Never need to do "heavy" braking unless an emergency.

[Groveite]

If your tire pressure is a bit lower on that wheel it could cause the higher temperature reading. It would be nice if that was was the simple solution!

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by Groveite

If your tire pressure is a bit lower on that wheel it could cause the higher temperature reading. It would be nice if that was was the simple solution!

I’m kind of thinking that is the case. When I checked it the morning after another stretch of driving with the one hub getting hotter, it was lower than the others. My new TireMinder TPMS monitor always showed it consistent with the others, though, so I didn’t think that was an issue. All four tires were aired to exactly 65 psi when I left and put the caps on.

I aired up the problem tire again to 65 and left the TPMS caps off. No problems at all! I’ve checked along the next legs of the trip and it actually is the coolest hub of the four by a few degrees. And they still are right at 65 psi.

I don’t know if the one TM cap leaked (although it never showed an unusual pressure drop) or caused some other issue. But they are staying off for now. They are the only thing that has changed since the last trip when everything worked perfectly.

Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions and advice. Having JOF around in times like that is a comfort.

[Groveite]

Originally Posted by LuckyDuck

I’m kind of thinking that is the case. When I checked it the morning after another stretch of driving with the one hub getting hotter, it was lower than the others. My new TireMinder TPMS monitor always showed it consistent with the others, though, so I didn’t think that was an issue. All four tires were aired to exactly 65 psi when I left and put the caps on.

I aired up the problem tire again to 65 and left the TPMS caps off. No problems at all! I’ve checked along the next legs of the trip and it actually is the coolest hub of the four by a few degrees. And they still are right at 65 psi.

I don’t know if the one TM cap leaked (although it never showed an unusual pressure drop) or caused some other issue. But they are staying off for now. They are the only thing that has changed since the last trip when everything worked perfectly.

Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions and advice. Having JOF around in times like that is a comfort.

So Glasd it was something simple!!!

[Bwanajohn]

Ok, I had a brake dragging after coming down Raton Pass. Backed brake off so tire would spin. Temp about 195 compared to 110 on other 3. Drove 100 miles, 379 degrees on stuck brake hub. Jacked up, pull completehub set, tightened brake so tire would spin. Cut the wires to that brake. Could you tell me what might cause that. Brakes 2 years old. Any advice would help. Thank you.

[Rock]

If you have self adjusting brakes if the drum is out of round they will overheat. Even if you back it off it will adjust tight as you drive. I had this same problem and now run self adjusting drum brakes. No more problems.

[Rock]

Originally Posted by Rock

If you have self adjusting brakes if the drum is out of round they will overheat. Even if you back it off it will adjust tight as you drive. I had this same problem and now run self adjusting drum brakes. No more problems.

Sorry, should of said manual adjustment brakes. As per the brake manufacturer tech (out of round drum will cause brake to self adjust and run hot).
Self adjusting brakes adjust forward and reverse when brakes are applied. If your drum is out of round it will readjust to keep dragging. You must back off the adjuster and cut wire.
This is why I went with manual adjust brakes.