Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-12-2022, 09:06 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
LuckyDuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,270
Wheel hub overheating and stuck

So, we are on Day 2 of a three-week trip and partway through the drive I sense the truck and trailer are just not moving like they should. We’d been climbing some decent hills but on the down side I was losing momentum rather than gaining. I was having to give it gas going downhill.

I pulled off at the first chance and the drivers side front trailer hub was about 120* (maybe more) while the others were 80* or so. I checked under and didn’t see any broken wires or abnormalities other than some strands of something like string or grass (?) sticking out of a small hole in the drum. Nothing major. I pulled it out.

No cell service where we stopped so had to unhitch and drive to barely 1 bar. No RV techs within 100 miles. Back at the rig, I rehitched and set the brake controller to 0. Then took it slow, stopping frequently to check hub temp. In 30+ miles it was only slightly warmer and toward the end was about the same as the others.

I don’t have the tools or confidence to pull the brake and wouldn’t know what to check. Is it possible the brake was temporarily frozen and somehow freed itself? I checked the breakaway cable — all good, but i pulled it and reinserted for good measure. Could that have solved it? I don’t want to be causing more damage. If not, that leaves a few options:

— Continue on, monitoring the hub temp. If turning down the controller made the difference I’m leery of continuing without it set to correct strength, though.
— Continue with controller turned back up. If it heats again, I’m done.
— Clip the two wires going to the brake drum and travel with just the three trailer brakes.

My apologies for the long post. This is a trip that was planned two years ago and got canceled last year when both of DW’s parents died. It has already been delayed this time by bad weather. Maybe it’s not meant to be. Thanks for any advice and expertise.
__________________
2018 JayFlight SLX 212QBW
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat SC, 7.3L PSD, 3.73
Transfer Flow 50 gal aux; Andersen WDH; Prodigy P2
😁 "If a man says he’ll fix something, he will. There’s no need to remind him every 6 months.
LuckyDuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 01:58 AM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Fort Scott
Posts: 2
Jack wheel up see if it spins freely..Wiggle it while jacked up it should not wiggle..Listen to it as you move it shoud"nt make noise/grind.. Take outside grease cap off should only be small dabs of grease
Tuna1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 04:44 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
ARoamer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: St Johns MI
Posts: 621
Could be brake shoes dragging, over adjusted. Have the wheel bearings ever been serviced? Trailer wheels with properly adjusted bearings SHOULD have a very slight wiggle when off the ground, if not your bearings are adjusted too tight. Also if you have the grease fitting under the dust cap and it has been used VS a hand bearing pack you will see LOTS of grease.
__________________
2020 Pinnacle 32rlts
640 watts solar, 300AH lithium
2020 High Country Duramax 3500
TS3 Hitch
Ms says I'm full of useless knowledge and other stuff...
ARoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 05:28 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Highland
Posts: 441
1) Reducing your brake to 0 will not fix that. They only engage when you hit your brakes, so set them back
2) If your break away cable was pulled, you would not move, ask me how I know
3) either brake hung up or bearing is gone, either you need to fix before moving on
4) brake has an adjustment, there is a slot in the back of your wheel assembly, you stick a screwdriver in there and rock it. It twist a star type ring on the brakes. Turn one way it tightens, turn the other it loosens You tube will have something
5) bad bearing, need to pull apart and replace
6) EVERYONE needs to service there bearings, I would say a min of every 2 years, depending on miles you drive. Especially if its a new trailer. My bearings were dry with signs of burn marks. I repacked and stayed with them as the burn marks were not bad, but if I went another year they would have failed.



Good luck
__________________
Chris Moore
2010 Starcraft/Jayco 297BHS pulled by
2009 Chevy Silverado
chrismoore701 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 06:44 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
LuckyDuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,270
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismoore701 View Post
1) Reducing your brake to 0 will not fix that. They only engage when you hit your brakes, so set them back
2) If your break away cable was pulled, you would not move, ask me how I know
3) either brake hung up or bearing is gone, either you need to fix before moving on
4) brake has an adjustment, there is a slot in the back of your wheel assembly, you stick a screwdriver in there and rock it. It twist a star type ring on the brakes. Turn one way it tightens, turn the other it loosens You tube will have something
5) bad bearing, need to pull apart and replace
6) EVERYONE needs to service there bearings, I would say a min of every 2 years, depending on miles you drive. Especially if its a new trailer. My bearings were dry with signs of burn marks. I repacked and stayed with them as the burn marks were not bad, but if I went another year they would have failed.



Good luck
Thanks all. Yes, I have a professional shop back the bearings every spring. I am ana about that. They just did it in March and inspected the brakes. Said all looked good.
__________________
2018 JayFlight SLX 212QBW
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat SC, 7.3L PSD, 3.73
Transfer Flow 50 gal aux; Andersen WDH; Prodigy P2
😁 "If a man says he’ll fix something, he will. There’s no need to remind him every 6 months.
LuckyDuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 03:46 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 371
Sounds more like a dragging/stuck brake, if the turning the controller down "fixed it". If bearings, then it should still be hot regardless of brake action.

When you disconnected the breakaway cable, that just fully applies the brakes directly with 12V, not different from applying from cab.

Maybe try running backwards and slam the brake controller a few times, then run backwards and apply normal pressure. This may loosen up things and adjust the brakes.

Cutting the wires to that brake may not retract the brake if its a mechanical problem.

Without pulling the hub; all else fails I would try the adjustment backoff as mentioned by @chrismoore701, just get the rotation direction right.
dxrobertson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 05:28 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
spoon059's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 1,583
Just a thought, I know some brakes are "Self adjusting" and need you to back up to initiate that self adjust.
spoon059 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 05:39 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greeley
Posts: 21
I've known a few folks who have dealt with a piece of brake lining breaking off and getting wedged against the following shoe, myself included! Same symptom you have described. It's what convinced me to convert to disk.
__________________
2019 North Point 315RLTS
Dexter Disc Brake Conversion
2019 F350 DRW
stauber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 07:40 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 288
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoon059 View Post
Just a thought, I know some brakes are "Self adjusting" and need you to back up to initiate that self adjust.
True for cars and trucks.

Not for trailers... they adjust going forward.

garywilson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 07:42 PM   #10
Site Team
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 20,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyDuck View Post
Thanks all. Yes, I have a professional shop back the bearings every spring. I am ana about that. They just did it in March and inspected the brakes. Said all looked good.
Is this the first trip out after the service?
__________________
Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56

Midnightmoon is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2022, 10:48 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
LuckyDuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightmoon View Post
Is this the first trip out after the service?
No, I always do a shorter “shakedown cruise” before embarking on a major one. I always check the hubs partway along and they seemed to be normal that time.

Update: I found a mechanic at the Shell station in the town we limped in to to spend the night (population 59). He jacked up the trailer and spun the wheels — very smooth, no grinding or drag. No play in the wheel either. Applied a little brake controller and he checked both wheels on that side. He was very pleased and felt we would be fine to continue our trip. I’ve checked the hubs frequently and the driver side front still measures hotter though. I’ve been in contact with the shop that did the bearings and will have them check it when I get back.
__________________
2018 JayFlight SLX 212QBW
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat SC, 7.3L PSD, 3.73
Transfer Flow 50 gal aux; Andersen WDH; Prodigy P2
😁 "If a man says he’ll fix something, he will. There’s no need to remind him every 6 months.
LuckyDuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2022, 04:44 AM   #12
Site Team
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 20,355
I think that you will be fine for the course of your trip. Just keep an eye on it as you have been.

When you get back. I'm not going to be surprised if they find that the torque/preload on that bearing is too much. It's not hard to get a little overzealous when installing them and cause this issue.
__________________
Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56

Midnightmoon is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2022, 04:55 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
ARoamer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: St Johns MI
Posts: 621
Quote:
Originally Posted by stauber View Post
I've known a few folks who have dealt with a piece of brake lining breaking off and getting wedged against the following shoe, myself included! Same symptom you have described. It's what convinced me to convert to disk.

On an older used 5er I had purchased one shoe's brake lining came un-bonded. Never noticed anything except the brakes seemed weak. Pulled the drums for a lookey-see and suprise! Lining fell out in one piece on 1, 2 of them had their grease seals breached and were full o'grease, (Yep, it had the Zerk fittings) and 1 seemed OK.
__________________
2020 Pinnacle 32rlts
640 watts solar, 300AH lithium
2020 High Country Duramax 3500
TS3 Hitch
Ms says I'm full of useless knowledge and other stuff...
ARoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 04:09 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Green Valley
Posts: 160
I would keep tabs of that wheel. If its consistently hotter than the rest, the bearing is to tight. Very simple to Jack up, loosen bearing a few turns, then tighten...this time only until snug. The wheel SHOULD wiggle just a touch with wheel off ground.
Reminder. Better to be a touch to loose than to tight when it comes to wheel bearings.
My 2.5 Ton sailboat had been going across country, dipping in salt and fresh water for over 15 years. Same set of bearings. My TT is now going into it's 4th year... Same bearings.
videoarizona is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 04:31 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Rock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Mexico Beach
Posts: 1,820
Unless u r in Alaska 80 and 120 on hubs is nothing. If u had a dragging brake u would be over 300. My tires run 120 in the summer. My hubs are hotter than yours all the time. I got rid of those stupid self adjusters. Went with Manuel adjust brakes.
__________________
2016 Pinnacle 36 FBTS, washer/drier, Onan 5500, G tires, dual Payne windows.
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 LB, DRW, HO Motor 4:10 Air Suspension, 12” Info Center.
Rock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 07:14 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: FORESTVILLE
Posts: 290
Each time we stop for fuel or to take a coffee break I check all four hubs with a infrared unit I purchased at HF.
joe w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 07:20 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Rock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Mexico Beach
Posts: 1,820
And what temps do u get? After stopping they go way up and just running tire temp and light brake drag temps are always over 150 on mine.
__________________
2016 Pinnacle 36 FBTS, washer/drier, Onan 5500, G tires, dual Payne windows.
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 LB, DRW, HO Motor 4:10 Air Suspension, 12” Info Center.
Rock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 07:27 PM   #18
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Near Pittsburgh
Posts: 20
I have 5th wheel that ways 17k pounds. My tires/hubs, per the factory installed TPMS, indicates a temperature that is consistently above 110 degrees at highway speeds, and occasionally as high as 140 degrees. Sometimes one tire is about 10 degrees warmer than the others. Sometimes 2 tires on the same side of the trailer are warmer than the 2 tires on the other side.

The 140 degree temps usually occur when I have been driving for awhile on 90 degree days and the sun is beating on the side of the trailer with the hot tire(s). Tires might be hotter due to more weight on that side of the trailer (maybe all your slides, bed, oven, stove, refrigerator, TV, etc are all on the drivers side, making that side heavier). You can't do anything about that, but it could be a contributing factor. Low or high tire pressure on the hot tire could be contributing to the extra heat. Maybe you are not towing level and the hot tire is receiving a bit more weight because your hitch is ether a bit too low or too high. Maybe the axle on the hot tire is slightly bent causing the tire to always scuff a bit. You would notice uneven wear if that was happening, but its good to give the tire some scrutiny to catch the problem before the tire wears down and pops.

I'm not sure that I would get excited about 120 degrees, but certainly have the wheel pulled and check the grease and bearing tightness at your first opportunity for peace of mind.
cmikal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 07:32 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: FORESTVILLE
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
And what temps do u get? After stopping they go way up and just running tire temp and light brake drag temps are always over 150 on mine.
Right at 105
joe w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2022, 07:49 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Rock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Mexico Beach
Posts: 1,820
U sure your brakes work. 105 is nothing my tires run hotter. I shoot my brake drum at 9 and 3 o’clock. Temps will be way higher after stopping. U must be checking temps at the rim cap and not drum hub. Center cap is not where to check.
__________________
2016 Pinnacle 36 FBTS, washer/drier, Onan 5500, G tires, dual Payne windows.
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 LB, DRW, HO Motor 4:10 Air Suspension, 12” Info Center.
Rock is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Jayco, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.