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11-20-2013, 09:55 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 44
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Which jack for changing a flat?
Just curious what people are using here. I like the bottle jacks but they only seem to lift up to 15" or so. The manual only recommends the frame for a jack point, which is taller than the bottle jack can go. Seems like it might be unstable when stacking a few 2x4's underneath the jack.
Mine is single axle. Would appreciate any input thanks!
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11-20-2013, 10:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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I carry a bottle jack, haven't had to use on the TT though. However I also carry 8 14" 2x8 that use on the corner stab jacks when setup. I would use a stack of 2x8 to raise the bottle jack with no concern.
__________________
2020 Ram 1500 5.7L
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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11-20-2013, 11:14 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 26
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Had my first blow-out last year, posted this opinion on another form and it was dis-liked.
Since our Jayco is only 21' over all, it does not have much storage space at all. There for, everything goes into the bed of the truck which has a solid lockable folding top. I carry a couple of Rubbermaid 18 gallon containers that I put in front of the bed. One contains all of the emergency road stuff and stays on the far passengers side of the bed. There at the bottom is one of these 2 ton light weight floor jacks, with the center weight d handle.
In fireplace chats I have heard of the small foot print and upper lifting points of bottle jacks, and when your are along side of the highway with that trailer jacked up and those 18 wheelers goes whizzing by, that trailer that you are working on sways from the vacuum. Then there is the chance of a fresh rain with a muddy base or hot asphalt squishy base. Then there is crawling underneath a lowered trailer then to find a level place to try and set it.
With the small 4 wheel floor jack I had/have, lift out of truck, place by frame, connect the two piece handle,insert , shove and guide it to location, pump handle. Then as those truck goes wising by and that trailer Mons and shakes I was sure glad I have the one I had.
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11-21-2013, 07:09 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fayette Ridges of PA, USA
Posts: 5,252
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I carry a six ton bottle jack and place it on Lynx Levelers and/or wood to provide the additional height in order for it to reach and lift the TT.
__________________
MODERATOR
TV: 2009 GMC Sierra 2500HD | Crew Cab | Std. Box | 4WD | Duramax/Allison
RV: 2000 Jayco Eagle 266 | FBS | TT
PREVIOUS: 1986 Coleman Laramie pop-up -- Still in the family!!!
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11-21-2013, 07:24 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 128
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I have had the pleasure of using my 3 ton bottle jack to change a flat. It worked well. Can someone explain why you would jack your trailer at the frame and not at the axle with the flat. Did I miss something?
Marty
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11-21-2013, 08:17 AM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FPM III
I carry a six ton bottle jack and place it on Lynx Levelers and/or wood to provide the additional height in order for it to reach and lift the TT.
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X2
I use the bottle jack from my 4 Runner. I also carry 1 jack stand in the TT to stabalize if needed.
Doug
__________________
Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
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11-21-2013, 08:53 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayco
... Can someone explain why you would jack your trailer at the frame and not at the axle with the flat. Did I miss something?
Marty
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My guess.
There are many incorrect places on the axle which can cause damage if they are used. So from my perspective, for legal reasons in the operator manual it is best for the trailer manufacturers to officially suggest only jacking by using the frame. There are many people who may be lifting a trailer to change a tire which have little or no experience with jacking a vehicle or lifting heavy objects. Using the trailer frame is generally very straight-forward.
I also always carry a small roll around floor jack with blocking. It has worked more often for me to help others than I have needed it on my own vehicles. (knock/touch wood) I believe that if you keep good tires on your vehicles and keep them properly inflated (max sidewall inflation for trailers), then flat tire problems can be minimized. vic
Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS1950
Per standards Special Trailer tires are speed rated to 65 mph, not 60 mph. Sorry to be a broken record, but anyone who runs their trailer tires at too low a pressure may be setting themselves up for tire failure and even handling problems. You don't need to listen to me, you can research what the experts recommend in the links below.
A Canned Response
Most special trailer tires are speed rated to 65 mph. Speed rated is not speed limited. Tire pressure can affect the speed range. Too little tire pressure is a greater sin than too much pressure. Consult your tire manufacturer information.
Personally I would not run my trailer tires at less than the max rated pressure listed on the sidewall. In my experience that mode gives good wear and puts the tire in a range for higher speeds.
Below is some specific information for
Goodyear Marathon Tires
Special Trailer ("ST") Tires
Goodyear Marathon trailer tires are widely used in a variety of towable trailer applications and are designed and branded as "ST" (Special Trailer) tires.
• Industry standards dictate that tires with the ST designation are speed rated at 65 MPH (104 km/h) under normal inflation and load conditions.
• Based on these industry standards , if tires with the ST designation are used at speeds between 66 and 75 mph (106 km/h and 121 km/h), it is necessary to increase the cold inflation pressure by 10 psi (69 kPa) above the recommended pressure for the rated maximum load .
o Increasing the inflation pressure by 10 psi (69 kPa) does not provide any additional load carrying capacity.
o Do not exceed the maximum pressure for the wheel.
o If the maximum pressure for the wheel prohibits the increase of air pressure, then the maximum speed must be restricted to 65 mph (104 km/h).
o The cold inflation pressure must not exceed 10 psi (69 kPa) beyond the inflation specified for the maximum load of the tire.
More info is here:
http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires...plications.pdf
If the link doesn't work then just add www. to this
tirerack.com/images/tires/goodyear/Marathon_Special_Trailer_Applications.pdf
What Carlisle says:
Inflation
Underinflation is the number one cause of trailer tire failure. Low
inflation pressure elevates tread temperature, especially as speed
increases.
Review - Practices for Safe Trailer Tire Use
– Maintain air pressure at the maximum PSI recommended on the
tire sidewall.
http://www.carlisletransportationpro..._Practices.pdf
What etrailer says:
Expert Reply:
Trailer tires should ALWAYS be inflated to the maximum psi rating as indicated on the tire without exception. The reason is that if under inflated, because trailer tires are built with a thicker side wall to handle more vertical load, a lower pressure will cause excessive heat build up and cause the tire to fail.
http://www.etrailer.com/question-40711.html
vic
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As always, the original thread can be accessed by clicking the blue arrow within the quote box.
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11-21-2013, 08:08 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luray, VA (central Shenandoah Valley of VA)
Posts: 1,430
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Regardless of what the manufacturer says, it is just fine to jack up an axle, providing it is done under the spring mounting, and not out in the middle of the axle.. This is done under the older cars that have leaf springs all the time, and no damage is done. Same idea as a trailer axle. The damage can occur if you put the jack under the middle of the axle, where it has no support.
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
2004 Jayco Designer Medallion 29 RLTS 5th wheel
Bill, Gayle, Teddy (Jack Russell terrier), and Honey (Beagle)
Retired at last !
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
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11-21-2013, 10:03 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Holiday, Fl
Posts: 70
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I had a blow out this year going to ga. I wound up using my scissors jack from my truck due to my bottle jack failed to lift.
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11-23-2013, 05:39 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
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I carry a six ton bottle jack AND and a six ton floor jack. I'm covered whatever I may need-----I hope.
__________________
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
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11-23-2013, 08:45 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,769
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I have a small 2 ton bottle jack, more than enough for my HTT. I have not needed to change my own tires yet (knock on wood). I did help change out a flat on my brother’s PU tire this summer and it did not have enough reach. If I have to change one of my tires I will grab a few blocks pull forwards and drive the good tire on top of the blocks to lift the unit up, kind a like what a Tire-Aid will do. Then grab a few more blocks, to put under the jack and finish lifting the frame to replace the bad tire.
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11-23-2013, 09:33 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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If at home I use my small floor jack on the frame near the axle. If on the road I'd use the scissor jack that came with my truck. I always carry firewood which can be used as a chock and my Lego levelers can be used for cribbing if the soil conditions dictate.
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2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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11-23-2013, 03:46 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Collierville
Posts: 97
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This might not be what you want to hear, but I use my cell phone to call someone to do it.
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11-25-2013, 07:38 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 350
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I bought this "roll on trailer jack". It looks like a great idea. I haven't had to use it yet though thank goodness.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/EZ-Ja...ack/738035.uts
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2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 crew cab with 6.2L and max tow package
2015 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 329BHU
2020 Starcraft Autumn Ridge Outfitter 182RB
Cypress, TX
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11-25-2013, 09:37 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawpaw
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I have used the roll on type, and love it. Unfortunately our friend who started this discussion only has a single axle.
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2008 Jayco Jay Feather Sport Ultra Lite 197
2005 Dodge Durango V8
TANSTAAFL
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11-26-2013, 08:45 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sebastian FL
Posts: 196
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No one has mentioned the fastest and easiest way for a dual axle trailer. That is to run the other wheel up onto some lynx blocks. You can add a bottle jack or stacking jacks for extra security if you need to.
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John & Nancy
Jay Feather 25Z 2007
Ford F-150 XLT 5.4 Triton 2008
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11-28-2013, 11:57 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Swedesboro NJ
Posts: 25
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When I had to change a flat I used my leveling pads. I place three, maybe four in front of the good tire, Rolled the trailer on to them. This caused the flat tire to rise
high enough to be removed. Very simple way of doing it and will not cause axle damage. You probably will need the trailer to "climb" on to the pads i.e ( -=) to create a step pattern . I hope this helps.
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2010 Ford F150 Lariat SCREW Tow Pkg
2014 White Hawk Summit 27DSRL
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