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Old 06-05-2023, 01:08 PM   #1
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White Hawk Power with Ford Pro Power

I am gradually learning the ins and outs for the power requirements for my 2016 White Hawk 29REKS. In the process, I also am learning about if/when my Ford F-150 compliments it well or not. I had bought the RV and the F-150 PowerBoost (with power in the bed) to support various disaster relief activities. Dry camping is a must for this oftentimes.

I am starting this thread to encourage others and/or learn from the mistakes that others have made.

First, I learned to NOT connect power simultaneously to the RV in the two available options.
1. First is the RV power cable that connects to the tow vehicle via the 7-pin connector that is used when towing the vehicle.
2. Second is the RV 120VAC connection via an external 50A power cable to the ProPower connector.

Having both connected at the same time will likely produce an overload that kills the 30A fuse that goes from the battery harness into the RV 12V system. It is better to disconnect the 7-pin harness before connecting to shore power.

Then, I learned that the ProPower can occasionally surge, even with the surge suppressor connected inline. It isn’t hard to reset the circuit on the truck. Just a little hassle sometimes.

Next, my A/C and microwave don’t run on battery power alone. Am I having a defect or is that usual? This is important to know for dry camping. My Jayco manual says that running the furnace and microwave would discharge the batteries with five hours, for reference.

Next, I learned that even the best extension cord is a bad idea in this configuration. Just don’t use it! You are likely to have issues and wonder why the outlets have no power. Use only RV-configured cables and adaptors.

If others have wisdom about using ProPower with the Jayco RVs, please comment. Thanks.
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Old 06-05-2023, 06:37 PM   #2
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Few things I can comment on...

If connecting to the 120v and 12v supplies simultaneously blow a fuse or trip a breaker; something's wrong.

The microwave and A/C require shore power or a generator - unless you're in a big coach/motorhome, you're unlikely to have an inverter large enough to power them.

There are a few variations of the ProPower system... From as low as 2.0kW to a high of 9.6kW - to run your air conditioning, you'll need the 7.2kW or 9.6kW versions - and the 120v outlet is only 20A - which would be pushed hard (or overloaded) - the 30A outlet is an L14-30, your RV will be a TT-30 (or possibly a L14-50, I'm not familiar with that model) - so you'll need an adapter of some sort to fully power it.
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Old 06-05-2023, 08:27 PM   #3
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I am not sure about some of your details in that last paragraph. But I do have the 7.2 Kw system.
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Old 06-05-2023, 08:40 PM   #4
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Good that you have the 7.2 kW version, that should be lots of power available; just need to get it from the truck to the trailer...


Let me put it a different way; the 15A or 20A outlets



don't have enough power to run your air conditioner - I imagine that's the overloading you mentioned (having to reset the breaker).

The 120/240 30A outlet



does have enough power to run everything in the trailer, but you'll need an adapter to connect your truck to your trailer...

But it's an easy one to find.

https://www.corddepot.com/shop/food-...to-rv-adapter/
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Old 06-05-2023, 08:47 PM   #5
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Thanks. I was wanting to find a new pigtail anyhow as the one that I have (which plugs into the 120V jack) has a 90 degree connector. That isn’t too easy to put into the available space. The 240V jack is higher off the bed too. So it’ll be easier twice over! And if it prevents any tripping, all the better!
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Old 06-05-2023, 08:49 PM   #6
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You're welcome...

You're still running 120v - you're only using 1 hot and the neutral of the L14-30; but it's a higher amperage; which is what you need.
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