Whitehawk water frozen

[Kidd280]

So it got down to 8 last night, trailer is warm and toasty but no water. I figured was the CG connection but went out and found all that to be flowing right up to the trailer. Heated hose, all joints wrapped with insulating tape.

Took the panel loose inside that houses the water heater and also the entrance point to the water. No way it is frozen there, just too much residul heat inside this section.

Water goes thru floor here to make way to the kitchen then bathroom, has to be frozen in floor.

Thoughts on how to prevent this?
Thoughts on how to get water going now?

What does the glacier package actually include or what temperature expectations go along with this?

Thanks!

[oldmanAZ]

I've had very little cold weather experience. Hopefully you'll hear from one of them soon, but there are a couple questions that may help them:

You have no water flow in the trailer at any faucet or at the toilet from the 'city' (campground) water connection. Correct?

Do you have any water flow in the trailer using the trailer's pump and fresh water supply?

[Kidd280]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

I've had very little cold weather experience. Hopefully you'll hear from one of them soon, but there are a couple questions that may help them:

You have no water flow in the trailer at any faucet or at the toilet from the 'city' (campground) water connection. Correct?

Do you have any water flow in the trailer using the trailer's pump and fresh water supply?

Hey man. I was considering if I should fill that tank and see if I can get flowing water from there. It is empty.

Wondered if I would have better luck in the extremes pulling from that tank.

[Bassdogs]

TT's ae not designed to function in sustained temps below freezing regardless of a glacier package or what ever it might be called. Smart money is to blow out your water lines anytime temps fall to below mid 20's and daytime temps stay below 35. You can mediate some of this by adding heat in the under belly by stringing a couple 100 watt lights near the exposed water lines but at the end of the day you are entering uncharted water by trying to beat mother nature. The risk is in my opinion not worth the reward since you can use your toilet and have water to drink and use in the kitchen by switching over to jugs of bottled water until the temps warm up. Blowing out the lines ahead of a freeze takes less than 15 minutes and will save you a lot of grief and expense if you end up with a busted water line.

[Bassdogs]

For the record I have a 2014 White Hawk with glacier package and have used the TT multiple times in freezing temps without issues using the above procedure. There is little that you can do now until the temps warm up. There is a good chance that no damage was done and things will open up in a day or 2 when temps in Fla warm back up.

Be careful with attemps to heat up water lines or you risk causing a fire or melting something. A heat gun is a lot more powerful than a hair driyer. Years ago my father used a heat lamp to add warmth to a 1960's station wagon. covered the heat lamp with an old blanket that caught fire over night and melted all the wiring under the hood. You would probably be safe putting a ceramic heater inside the underbelly [set it on low and away from any wires or flammable stuff. Seal the under belly again and it will warm things up. If you are where warmer temps are predicted, I think I would just wait for 24 hours and see if mother nature takes care of the problem.

Forgot to ask, have you been running your furnace or are you relying on electric heaters? The furnace will send heat under the floor into the underbelly. Electric heaters will keep the inside warm but unless the furnace cycles regularily things will eventually freeze underneath.

[Kidd280]

Originally Posted by Bassdogs

TT's ae not designed to function in sustained temps below freezing regardless of a glacier package or what ever it might be called. Smart money is to blow out your water lines anytime temps fall to below mid 20's and daytime temps stay below 35. You can mediate some of this by adding heat in the under belly by stringing a couple 100 watt lights near the exposed water lines but at the end of the day you are entering uncharted water by trying to beat mother nature. The risk is in my opinion not worth the reward since you can use your toilet and have water to drink and use in the kitchen by switching over to jugs of bottled water until the temps warm up. Blowing out the lines ahead of a freeze takes less than 15 minutes and will save you a lot of grief and expense if you end up with a busted water line.

Thanks it is a rare freeze for us but have been in similar with both of our previous trailers over the past 10 years. Tomorrow will be 50 again and 70 by thursday.

While typing this the cold started. Hot is still down. It is somewhere between the kitchen and water heater, has to be under the floor. I say this because the kitchen faucet in warm area mixed allows cold water to flow in the bathroom so that line is clear.

Do the water lines run with the furnace ducting? Would seem logical to utilize the passing heat.

[Kidd280]

Hot just unfroze.
I feel there is something missing insulation or outside the envelope.

Furnace I am using. I have fireplace on 70 and furnace cycles less I think but enough.



Whole trailer is very comfortable and no drafts currently.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Kidd280

Hot just unfroze.
I feel there is something missing insulation or outside the envelope.

Furnace I am using. I have fireplace on 70 and furnace cycles less I think but enough.



Whole trailer is very comfortable and no drafts currently.

We were in Davis Byou CG in Ocean springs Miss a couple years ago when a similar cold snap hit. The hose and CG water head both froze. Inside heat and the glacier package keep onboard fresh water working. In your case, I would lower the tstat on the fireplace and that will increase the cycling of the furnace and increase heat going below the floor.

Mother nature will bite you if you push the envelope. I have snap winterized in a CG, Walmart parking lot, and even an interstate rest area. With practice you can do a proper job in less than 10 minutes with half of that getting and connecting the 12v air compressor and bypassing/draining the water heater.

We are expecting a warm up starting tomorrow with one more subfreezing nite here in Southern KY. Good luck and keep track of dangerous cold so you can get ahead of it if necessary.

[WyoGuy1]

Did you find where your line was frozen in the floor? I have the same issue with a brand-new Whitehawk and a heated hose? I feel like This should be fixed under the warranty

Originally Posted by Kidd280

So it got down to 8 last night, trailer is warm and toasty but no water. I figured was the CG connection but went out and found all that to be flowing right up to the trailer. Heated hose, all joints wrapped with insulating tape.

Took the panel loose inside that houses the water heater and also the entrance point to the water. No way it is frozen there, just too much residul heat inside this section.

Water goes thru floor here to make way to the kitchen then bathroom, has to be frozen in floor.

Thoughts on how to prevent this?
Thoughts on how to get water going now?

What does the glacier package actually include or what temperature expectations go along with this?

Thanks!