Window Reseal ???'s

lx22f/c · 03-19-2016, 05:44 PM

Okay so I have read all the threads on resealing Windows.
I have an 07 Jayco 314bhds. I figured since the age of my trailer that it would be a good idea to remove my windows and Reseal.
I picked the smallest and easiest one to start with. I pulled the window and to my surprise the gasket is not brittle and crumbly in fact it was very soft and looked to be in great shape.
I went ahead and removed the gasket and put the putty tape on the frame and reinstalled the window.
My question though why do the others?
I will assume the other Windows gaskets would be in the same shape as this one?
The Windows show no signs of any leakage. So I think I am just gonna chaulk around the tops and sides of all the windows and call it good.
What ya think? Thanks everyone!

Paintinfool3 · 03-19-2016, 05:48 PM

Some people think its vital or at least makes them feel more comfortable to pull and reseal their windows even when new, I would say if the one gasket looked good I would reseal around the top and call it good if it were me

Sundancer330 · 03-19-2016, 06:32 PM

Don't fix whats not broke, just keep an eye on it.

lx22f/c · 03-19-2016, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

Don't fix whats not broke, just keep an eye on it.

That's what my wife said. Lol
Thanks

RVhiker · 03-19-2016, 07:09 PM

I agree with "Don't fix what ain't broke." But your window sealing can be broken, and not look like it.

When I resealed my windows - in my trailer that was still under warranty - I found a major issue with how my windows were installed in the cut-out hole in that only one of them was centered in the hole. Since the hole is oversize (by design and by necessity) the window has to be centered with shims. Otherwise, the window will be at the bottom of the hole. Given the size of the window flange, the size of the cut-out, and the curvature of some of the corners there will be places where less than 1/8" of flange will touch the side it is "sealing" against. Any defect in the gasket and a leak results.

At the very least, I would encourage you to put a cap of caulking over the top of the window and down the sides.

Here is a link to a window re-seal thread I started:Window reseal thread (clicky).

lx22f/c · 03-19-2016, 07:23 PM

RVhiker I did read your thread that's what got me motivated to order the putty to do mine. When I pulled the one window it was actually centered really well and very well sealed there was no evidence in the walls and insulation of any leakage. That's why I said I think I can get away with just caulking the tops and sides. Thank you

ALJO · 03-19-2016, 07:49 PM

Making a decision after one windows seems foolish, if you do 3 of them you would have more a reality picture. The older units used putty but nowadays they use rubber seals for an easier and faster install. I had one window leaking on a 2012 but got it in time, but if it would have prolonged there would have been a lot of damage to the wall and floor.
The wood they use for framing is light and soft and will rot very quickly.
There is a saying: "Better Safe Than Sorry"

Yes it is a great saying: "Don't fix what isn't broke" How do you know the seal isn't broke? We talking about a fast pace RV manufacturing industry.

lx22f/c · 03-19-2016, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALJO

Making a decision after one windows seems foolish, if you do 3 of them you would have more a reality picture. The older units used putty but nowadays they use rubber seals for an easier and faster install. I had one window leaking on a 2012 but got it in time, but if it would have prolonged there would have been a lot of damage to the wall and floor.
The wood they use for framing is light and soft and will rot very quickly.
There is a saying: "Better Safe Than Sorry"

Yes it is a great saying: "Don't fix what isn't broke" How do you know the seal isn't broke? We talking about a fast pace RV manufacturing industry.

Good point!!!

RedHorse1 · 03-20-2016, 07:11 AM

I had to replace a window in the 23B that was broken. I discovered a water stain on the insulation. The thin foam gasket was pinched and had allowed a small amount of water to work its way in. There was no damage, yet, but I took the hint and re-sealed all of them with butyl tape. If installed carefully the factory gasket will probably serve well but I don't really think "careful" is part of the assembly lexicon.

Bassdogs · 03-20-2016, 09:27 AM

Because of visable water damage on a Keystone TT that I owned at the time, I began removing windows, trim, and the door. To late to prevent the damage already done, but a real eye opener. The door seal was folded over at the top, leaving a 6" gap. The doors on the storage were not sealed at all. No caulk no nothing. The trim across the back where the roof seals to the rear end cap had a strip of rubber caulk stuck to the trim but the paper tape had not been removed from the caulk when it was installed. Same with the top trim on the door side where the awning was attached. Unfortunately all this happened at year 4 and Keystone offered no help. Suspect that unit was built on a Friday or a Monday after a long weekend. Anyway other than the eventual visible damage, everything looked fine. Beware of hidden pitfalls.

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