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Old 10-28-2013, 05:00 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Derek700 View Post
We use an old dehumidifier and keep our bathroom vent cracked open a bit. After 3 years trailer still smells new. We dump out about a quart of water every 2-3 weeks.
We use a mechanical dehumidifier in our old JayFlight and now it is installed in our new Greyhawk. I run the heater to keep the temperature above 50f. I have the dehumidifier set to its lowest setting of 35% RH and to automatically shut off when the set point is reached. This setup kept the JayFlight water free all winter. This is the only way to go especially if you use your coach in the fall, winter, spring when it is wet and humid. I learned this the hard way when we were camping and got caught in a snow storm. We had the heat on and 5 people in the trailer. We had so much humidity it was running down the inside walls. Now we don't even have much problems with foggy windows.
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Old setup:
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 LT with a 2004 Jayco JayFlight 29BHS
2014 Greyhawk 31FS with a 2007 Tahoe toad
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2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 with a 2007 Tahoe toad
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:18 AM   #22
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Has anyone every used the Eva-Dry RV dehumidifiers before? Any comments?

Here's the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Eva-Dry-...-/171159927347
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:12 PM   #23
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I haven't any experience.
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Originally Posted by SkyBound View Post
... Any comments?
...
It looks like a nice idea. A tightly closed trailer shouldn't need much dehumidifcation while in storage.

It looks like a better idea than running a house style dehumidifier. The power use of some of those can be similar to running an air conditioning unit.

That said, unless personal experience or local comments by others indicate that a dehumidifier is necessary for your area you probably don't need one. For my area I'd consider it a waste of money and power. That is based upon my friends winter storage trailer experience. My years of experience are with boats which I don't dehumidify either. So FWIW. vic
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
I haven't any experience.

It looks like a nice idea. A tightly closed trailer shouldn't need much dehumidifcation while in storage.

It looks like a better idea than running a house style dehumidifier. The power use of some of those can be similar to running an air conditioning unit.

That said, unless personal experience or local comments by others indicate that a dehumidifier is necessary for your area you probably don't need one. For my area I'd consider it a waste of money and power. That is based upon my friends winter storage trailer experience. My years of experience are with boats which I don't dehumidify either. So FWIW. vic
My house dehumidifier only runs if the humidity rises to above the set point. This means my power usage is nothing if the humidity is low.
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Old setup:
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 LT with a 2004 Jayco JayFlight 29BHS
2014 Greyhawk 31FS with a 2007 Tahoe toad
New setup:
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 with a 2007 Tahoe toad
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:24 PM   #25
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My house dehumidifier only runs if the humidity rises to above the set point. This means my power usage is nothing if the humidity is low.
That is true. But how low does humidity need to be for a trailer to be OK in storage? If it is low enough that it doesn't run, then why even buy a dehumidifier?

Within the capabilities of the fan and relative position, a dehumidifier can only remove moisture in the general area of the unit. In my experience humidity definitely has a tendency to equalize within a confined space, but it takes time.

The problem in efficiency is that you can only remove so much moisture in the immediate area in which the dehumidifier unit is located. The humidity level in the overall general area will only reduce at a given rate. If you are running a larger dehumidification unit (bigger compressor) during that time than is necessary then it is less efficient. Kinda like cruising down the highway at 45 mph with a big block V8. It just isn't as efficient as it is when doing that with a 4 cylinder engine. It is better to size the unit for the work required.

vic
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:00 PM   #26
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I use dri-z-air as well. one tub in the sink and the other in the tub. I usually empty them outside once a month and replace the granular when needed. I keep the trailer sealed up. Worked well last year. I've already drained them once this year.
I'm going it check out my TT on Friday. If I remember, I will post what I find with my moisture collection. We had a wind storm a few days ago, so I'm also hoping to find my cover in one piece.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
That is true. But how low does humidity need to be for a trailer to be OK in storage? If it is low enough that it doesn't run, then why even buy a dehumidifier?

Within the capabilities of the fan and relative position, a dehumidifier can only remove moisture in the general area of the unit. In my experience humidity definitely has a tendency to equalize within a confined space, but it takes time.

The problem in efficiency is that you can only remove so much moisture in the immediate area in which the dehumidifier unit is located. The humidity level in the overall general area will only reduce at a given rate. If you are running a larger dehumidification unit (bigger compressor) during that time than is necessary then it is less efficient. Kinda like cruising down the highway at 45 mph with a big block V8. It just isn't as efficient as it is when doing that with a 4 cylinder engine. It is better to size the unit for the work required.

vic
I agree, the dehumidifier I installed in my old Jayco 29BHS (30' long inside) is sized so that when I used the trailer in the winter it kept the moisture down to a manageable level (no fogging windows). I use the same one in my new 2014 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS (31' inside not including the slide outs). My purpose is to make the unit usable in the fall, winter, spring not just for storage. If you just want to use it for storage a smaller dehumidifier using the Peltier principle may work for you. My needs are more robust. I also wanted a unit that completely shut off when the set point was reached. I have the set point set at 35% RH. I can say that I never had any water or moisture problems in my coach after I installed the dehumidifier.
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Old setup:
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 LT with a 2004 Jayco JayFlight 29BHS
2014 Greyhawk 31FS with a 2007 Tahoe toad
New setup:
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 with a 2007 Tahoe toad
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by msturtz View Post
... If you just want to use it for storage a smaller dehumidifier using the Peltier principle may work for you. ...
Thank you for not going down the road of Peltier (in)efficiencies. (Where's the "thumbs up" icon?) I think that in this case the smaller unit makes sense.
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Originally Posted by msturtz View Post
My needs are more robust. ...
Without a doubt the unit under discussion would be of no value for you. As I said, size the unit to the work. If you already need a larger unit, then set it low for storage as you do.

Summer camping is worrying about being cool. We're hoping to get a few days of late Fall camping in before the weather gets too bad. I hope that for just a two or three day period high humidity will be OK. I hadn't really consdiered that, but I can see where it could be a problem. vic
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