Winterize

Schilly · 09-28-2020, 09:05 PM

I have a jay feather x17 z. I’ve always had it winterized professionally but their prices have gone through the roof. How difficult is it to winterize my camper myself? What do I need?

Jagiven · 09-28-2020, 10:08 PM

It is really easy. The basic method requires 1 gallon of rv antifreeze. I always have two just incase I opps, and I have.

Open, the low point drains, faucets, and bypass valves. Let the water drain onto the ground.

Close off the valves to the water heater, keep the bypass valve open. Close all the faucets. Close all the low point drains.

Locate your water pump. If you do not know where it is turn on the pump, and follow the noise. It will be behind a panel. Mostlikely you will need a #2 square drive screw driver to get to it. Depending on your tt, you may have one three way valve or two traditional valaves. Flip the valve(s) to change the pickup to the clear pipe up hose.

Place the clear hose into the rv antifreeze jug. Turn on the pump. If all the faucets are closed and the water heater is bypassed, the pump will shut off once it sucks up about a 1/3 of a gallon. If it keeps pumping at a 1/2 gallon, shut off the pump, and look why, my have left a low point, or faucet open(outside shower), or even the water heater is filling.

Once the pump shuts off, go faucet to faucet. Do not forget the outside shower and toilet. Make sure enough antifreeze does down each drain.

Technically your done.

You can add other steps but this is the minimum.

One thing I tend to do at the end of my last campout if there is no line at the dump station, is to leave the waste valves open extra time to fully drain the waste tanks. Otherwise I put a bucket under the wast line, and let it drain the last couple gallons of water.

RogerR · 09-29-2020, 09:10 AM

Jagiven covered most of it. I purchased a small adapter that allows me to blow air pressure ( keep it low, look at your manual, mine is 40 psi.) through all the pipes one at a time to blow out all the water you can. I do this before I add pink antifreeze and then after. Lots of posts that explain this. You need a air compressor but the Harbor freight one for $40 will work. Also handy for topping up tires.

I agree on not forgetting the outside shower, cause I forgot once and had to replace it!

I also like to add a little lubricant to the toilet before I close it up. I put a bucket under the black /grey outlet and leave them open for a couple of days to dry out the tanks. The pink you ran through the lines will help flush it out.

Don't buy the cheaper RV antifreeze with alcohol in it. It doesn't work as well.

DocBrown · 09-29-2020, 09:17 AM

I will only add to not forget to open each water heater valve for a few seconds when pumping antifreeze through the system. I did not do this on a previous trailer. There was just enough water left in one of valves that it froze and cracked the valve at the seams.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerR

I agree on not forgetting the outside shower, cause I forgot once and had to replace it!

Same here!

Jagiven · 09-29-2020, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocBrown

I will only add to not forget to open each water heater valve for a few seconds when pumping antifreeze through the system. I did not do this on a previous trailer. There was just enough water left in one of valves that it froze and cracked the valve at the seams.

Same here!

This is why I have all the water heater valves open while draining the tank and pipes. This will remove the water from behind any valves.

I do not like permitting any antifreeze into the water heater, as it takes a lot of time and water in the spring to flush the tank. I have accidently left the valves open and pumped a 1/2 gallon into the water heater. (hence having a spare gallon on hand).

ggilbert · 10-01-2020, 10:13 PM

I followed this video last year no problems. Also replaced my water heater plug with a ball valve. Plastic plug was kind of chewed up after a couple years

https://youtu.be/eU-ZwszRzHQ

ball valve
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Naedwg · 10-02-2020, 05:59 AM

My dealer had written instructions. The last step was to open low point drains and all faucets. Wondering what you all think of that last step. I’m sure it doesn’t hurt as all water is gone and all is left is antifreeze in spots it doesn’t drain. I live in Winnipeg Canada where -30 C occurrences are here for 6 weeks

Old and soft · 10-02-2020, 07:46 AM

I have to pull the screen from the city water inlet, and depress the check valve to ensure water out and anti freeze into pipe between inlet and the winterizing valve near the pump previously mentioned. I don't use compressed air, but I suspect that would clear that short piece of pipe.

Jagiven · 10-02-2020, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagiven

This is why I have all the water heater valves open while draining the tank and pipes. This will remove the water from behind any valves.

I do not like permitting any antifreeze into the water heater, as it takes a lot of time and water in the spring to flush the tank. I have accidently left the valves open and pumped a 1/2 gallon into the water heater. (hence having a spare gallon on hand).

I'm more of the belt and suspender type. Where I historically store my TT, can get to -40 degrees. So I tend to blow out my lines first, winterize, and blow them out again, lots of room for expansion. The antifreeze I use is -50 degree rated. The dilution chart shows that it looses efficiency very rapidly with only a small amount of water.

RetiredOne · 10-02-2020, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagiven

I'm more of the belt and suspender type. Where I historically store my TT, can get to -40 degrees. So I tend to blow out my lines first, winterize, and blow them out again, lots of room for expansion. The antifreeze I use is -50 degree rated. The dilution chart shows that it looses efficiency very rapidly with only a small amount of water.

That's why I also agree with blowing out with air first. It hopefully will get rid of much of the standing water, which can dilute the anti-freeze, specially in the low points of the plumbing.

RogerR · 10-02-2020, 10:54 AM

In our area the -50 stuff contains alcohol which can dry up and lose efficiency over several months. I use the -75 stuff that does not contain alcohol. Look at your label and if it says flammable, if it does then I would switch brands. The -75 stuff only costs a $1 more a gallon.

I did a pole and like about 40% of the respondents I blow out, pink and blow again. Then I drain the black and gray where the pink went which might pick up some water there or dilute any standing water.
The -75 stuff does not dry up in the toilet over the whole winter!

muckinfuss · 10-09-2020, 10:42 AM

might I suggest that if you have a black tank flush hookup, that you push a little pink juice into the opening, hook your air fixture up and just slightly 'blip' some air pressure to move the pink juice into the check valve. If that goes, you have a very expensive repair, even if DIY.
I can't wait until winterizing my trailer means heading south of the Mason Dixon for a few months.

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