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Old 09-11-2019, 02:11 PM   #1
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Winterizing Air Pressure

I have the Jayco 212 QBW trailer. I was going to drain and blow out lines and ran into problem. The fresh water inlet is a 1 1/4 male end. The adapter that I got from Camco that air hose attaches to is a 3/4 male end. I'm not seeming to find any transitions for connecting between the two. Maybe some others have same situation and can shed some light on how they work it. Thanks.
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Old 09-11-2019, 02:21 PM   #2
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I don't think you are trying to pressurize the correct water inlet. The city water connection should be the same size as a garden hose connection (3/4"). You should be at the water connector to the left of your outdoor shower.
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Old 09-11-2019, 02:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnBob View Post
I have the Jayco 212 QBW trailer. I was going to drain and blow out lines and ran into problem. The fresh water inlet is a 1 1/4 male end.
That's your fresh water tank fill. As Iraqvet05 said the other connection is a standard hose connection. If you are trying to winterize your pump you may already have a by-pass hose located in the compartment with the pump. You could blow air through it or pump some antifreeze in. If you are in an area that gets cold and stays cold I personally would use antifreeze.
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:00 PM   #4
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Thanks for getting my head on right. The inlet will work better with a three-quarter inch. I just wanted to blow the lines out now, will add some antifreeze in there before winter really sets in. It does get cold here in Minnesota. I have to be leaving end of December to the Southwest.
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:46 PM   #5
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Question

I have a completely different trailer (27BH) but I just want to be sure I'm going to be winterizing correctly.

The last trailer we had I:

1. Drained the tanks
2. Closed the bypass and drained the water heater
3. Used air pressure to blow out the lines (using an adapter that screwed in to the city water inlet)
4. Dumped antifreeze in the fresh water and ran the pump until I had antifreeze coming out

The new trailer has a pump with a bypass. If I'm understanding correctly (and that's a big if), this year I need to:

1. Drain the tanks
2. Close the bypass and drain the water heater
3. Put the hose in a gallon jug of antifreeze
4. Pump until I have antifreeze coming out every faucet (to include the outdoor shower and toilet)

Do I have it correct? Am I missing anything? The first year I missed the toilet and had to replace the valve.

Thanks to all here that contribute their knowledge. Sorry for sort of hijacking your thread (but at least it's still on the same subject.)
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kweinert View Post
I have a completely different trailer (27BH) but I just want to be sure I'm going to be winterizing correctly.

The last trailer we had I:

1. Drained the tanks
2. Closed the bypass and drained the water heater
3. Used air pressure to blow out the lines (using an adapter that screwed in to the city water inlet)
4. Dumped antifreeze in the fresh water and ran the pump until I had antifreeze coming out

The new trailer has a pump with a bypass. If I'm understanding correctly (and that's a big if), this year I need to:

1. Drain the tanks
2. Close the bypass and drain the water heater
3. Put the hose in a gallon jug of antifreeze
4. Pump until I have antifreeze coming out every faucet (to include the outdoor shower and toilet)

Do I have it correct? Am I missing anything? The first year I missed the toilet and had to replace the valve.

Thanks to all here that contribute their knowledge. Sorry for sort of hijacking your thread (but at least it's still on the same subject.)
Although my current unit is different I still use air to blow out the lines before using the winterization feature to pump in antifreeze. I also have to run my refrigerators ice maker through a few cycles to ensure antifreeze gets into that item. Forgot it 3 years ago and had a repair to do in the following spring.
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Old 09-11-2019, 05:01 PM   #7
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Dump an adequate amount into drains for p-traps. Make sure your shower hoses and heads are dry or have antifreeze. Make sure that ALL low points have been drained, including any red and blue lines hanging down under the trailer. Some are valved at the bottom, some are capped, some are valved from inside the camper.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:37 AM   #8
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blow out or Anti freeze

I too live in Minnesota, so I know how cold it can get and my trailers have always come set-up for easy winter maintenance!

I have never blown out my water lines to prepare for winter.
I drain the water heater and leave the plug out, flip the hot water bypass valves and the pump anti freeze thru the lines using the water pump.
I pump until I get anti freeze to come out of every outlet (sinks, toilet, shower). I then pour a bit more into each drain for to fill the traps.

Using this method all water is pushed out of the lines and the traps are full.
In twenty years I have never had an issue with a frozen water line.

Total anti freeze used 2 gallons!

I guess I don't see the need to the blow out the lines and add anti freeze!
Besides I don't take the risk of blowing out the line with too much pressure and trying to keep track of the different fittings.

Just my two cents worth!

Happy Camping & safe travels!
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Old 09-12-2019, 12:44 PM   #9
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Don't forget to get some AF in the black and grey tanks too. Enough to keep the knife valve wet should be adequate. I will usually dump extra in my sinks when I'm filling the p-traps, and dump a bunch in the toilet.

Also, put any drain stoppers in place so the AF doesn't evaporate out and leave your p-traps dry. I also cover my toilet bowl with plastic wrap after I've dumped some in the bowl.
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Old 09-12-2019, 12:54 PM   #10
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I used the cheapest grade anti-freeze that contained alcohol. At the end of winter I found that all the alcohol had evaporated and left me with a mess as there was condensation buildup.


So please read the bottle and don't buy this junk, if alcohol is mentioned or it is marked flammable pay the extra so you get the protection you need.
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