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Old 10-19-2013, 03:41 PM   #1
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Winterizing...Is it really that easy?

I drained the water heater, flipped the bypass valves, opened the low point drain after opening all faucets (nothing came out, that was a little disconcerting) and placed the vacuum hose attached to the water pump into a gallon of anti-freeze. Ran each faucet in kitchen, bathroom, tub, outside shower and flushed the toilet until everything ran pink. I used slightly under two gallons of the pink. Am I missing anything? I was expecting this to be a more complicated procedure (first time doing this). The process took me maybe 20 min total, and I'm worried I forgot something. How about the city water and black tank inlets? Do I need to do anything with these lines?

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 10-19-2013, 04:26 PM   #2
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It's really that easy. If there isn't an antifreeze puddle in the toilet, it's a good idea to pour a little in to keep the toilet gasket wet. Probably when you ran antifreeze until it got pink each trap got filled up with antifreeze; if you have any doubt, pour some antifreeze into the trap. Disconnect or remove your batteries (make sure they are fully charged before storing). If your ceiling vents have a cover on top, I like to keep them open to keep the trailer aired out. With regard to the city water inlet, I believe that that would drain when you opened the low point drains on the lines. You drained the fresh water tank, and the waste tanks are empty? Some think that the black tank washer line should be filled with antifreeze or blown out. I believe that water in those lines drains out when the hose is disconnected from the black tank washer.

This is obvious, but be sure your water heater is filled with water before turning it on when you start up your trailer again.
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Old 10-19-2013, 04:44 PM   #3
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You got it.
Just did mine a few minutes ago, about 20 minutes.
Ready for storage except I'll remove the battery once I get there.
I dump any left over anti-freeze into traps and black tank.

Easy, breezy :-)

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Old 10-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #4
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Yep, it's really easy, have no idea why people pay to have this done.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #5
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For the city water inlet, I take the screen off, and depress the center. This allows the pressure holding water there to run out. You can also do this while pumping, but there will be more pressure.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:08 AM   #6
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When I first winterized my lines, I was very surprised at how easy it was as well.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:11 AM   #7
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Just a comment about your low point drains not having anything come out. You need to open both hot and cold water taps (kitchen or bathroom) as a vent, so the water will come out.
The fact you flushed the lines with the pink stuff, is all that really matters though. By draining the lines first, you might use a bit less of the pink stuff.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:27 AM   #8
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I use the BLOW OUT method here in Northern Neck of Virginia where extended freezing is almost unheard of anymore . I drain all the low points and water heater just like you did. Then I hookup up my low pressure compressor to the city water inlet using an adapter to blow out all of the lines. Then I pour small amount of pink antifreeze down the P-traps. Don't forget the outside shower points...

The 12VDC TANKLESS type portable compessors are great for this method as they are slow build up their air pressure. I can start using this compressor and then be able to walk around the water hot and cold valves one at a time to clear each groups of lines.

The beauty of the BLOW OUT method is you can do this on overnight camping trips rather easy and you can continue using the system the next day by just adding water. The BLOW OUT method is probably less time then your described method.

Great to have this capability as a PLAN B if you suddenly run into some freezing nights on the trips...

Camping for us is always full of PLAN Bs....
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:59 AM   #9
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Yes, that easy. Word of caution, don't press the center check valve on your fresh water inlet under pressure it can blow out the seal.... Also, make sure you've winterized the outside shower.

I have no idea why people pay $100+ for someone to winterize their unit. Like a poster above I blow the lines out with an air compressor and pour the antifreeze down the drain. Uses a gallon.
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:30 AM   #10
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yepper, it's that easy...did mine last wk...air and then the pink stuff has been my method for yrs...
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwebber78 View Post
Yes, that easy. Word of caution, don't press the center check valve on your fresh water inlet under pressure it can blow out the seal.... Also, make sure you've winterized the outside shower.

I have no idea why people pay $100+ for someone to winterize their unit. Like a poster above I blow the lines out with an air compressor and pour the antifreeze down the drain. Uses a gallon.
I am one of those that pay to have mine winterized. It is only $85. Two reasons that I do this. First, my TT is stored 275 miles away. Secondly, and the most important, my dealer also does a roof inspection. I then receive a letter from the dealer stating it was winterized, and a roof and chalking inspection done. So far it has stated that no issues where found with the roof and/or chalking. I believe that this letter could go a long way towards resolving any roof issues with Jayco.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:52 PM   #12
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I think you've got a unique situation - glad it works for you.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:19 PM   #13
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If you blow the lines out do you put some anti-freeze in the pump?
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:05 PM   #14
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Heck yeah, it's easy. My trailer and my sailboat have very similar winterizing routines.

I have a friend with a class A who used to pay to have it done even though he stores it at home and is a very handy guy. He thinks nothing of putting a new radiator in his mini van and similar chores, but must have thought there was some sort of magic to winterizing the plumbing in his bus. I showed him how to do it last fall.

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