2019 Jay Sport 12SC New Owner Questions

[Heartsofwar]

Hello everyone... I recently purchased a new Jayco Jay Sport 12SC and had quite a few questions. I feel like an idiot on some of these, but I am a total newb when it comes to towing and recreation.

• When towing the camper trailer, should it be level or slightly raised at the hitch?
• Does the camper trailer brakes auto engage unless connected via the 7-pin towing cable? The reason I ask is I was reversing the camper trailer into my drive way after a quick setup in front to season it, and I noticed the brakes squealing a lot every time I reversed. As soon as I connected the 7-pin towing cable, it stopped. Did I damage anything?
• The camper trailer came with two supports to cover the lifter support columns. We were told these should go on the diagonal for additional support and only two were required. Did we get stiffed out of two additional supports or is it just two total? Does Jayco sell these if I wanted to buy two more for additional support?
• I put my Level Mate Pro on the inside of the side cabinet door just directly to the right of the door. This was the closest to the front that I could get while still being able to open the camper trailer door, open the cabinet door, and flip the on-off switch from standing next to it. I'm curious where everyone else put theirs?
• For my level mate pro I used 85" wide and 177" length. Can someone corroborate? I did my measurements in the dark, seems right, but I might be off on length a little.
• We've noticed several small holes or tears in the tent material in a few places near the Velcro on the sides of the pull-out dinette section. Does Jayco repair / cover these under warranty? I'm trying to figure out if we should take it to a dealer to have them fixed / repaired.
• There are lots of dings / scratches to the veneer on the inside, from normal foot traffic / setup / tear-down from being on display for a year. Are there approved color pens to fill-in these scratches? How does everyone keep their interior scratch free?
• Also, on both sides of the dinette just passed the 90 degree bend, the tent material comes down just enough to cover the side / slide out, but it doesn't Velcro or attach to the shell in any way. I can stick my entire hand into / out of the side of the tent. Is this normal? I do see an emergency 'EXIT' tag in this area, so I'm unsure if this is a necessary evil for the emergency exit. At the very least, it doesn't seem very thermal proof...
• I haven't connected a hose / water source yet, but does the water tank fill and the faucet always pull water from the tank via the pump or does the water source push the faucet only. Do we manually choose when to use the tank? Where do I fill the tank?
• We noticed the rollers for the slide outs push a small section of the rubber sealer out so there is a small air gap, does anyone plug this with something? Again, seems a good way to lose heat in the winter...
• The undersides of the slide-outs is straight unprotected plywood. I thought the entire underside was suppose to be protected via a water-resistant poly flex material?
• Where does everyone store their slide-out supports, diagonal lift structure supports, lift system handle, and stabilizer lift handle? We do not want to store these inside as it could contribute to scuffing the floor / cabinets. I was thinking we could secure them to the front storage cage, but it seems best option is a tight bungee cord. Any other ideas?
• This Camper trailer advertises it can sleep 6-7 people. 6 x 150lbs is 900 lbs, leaving 90 lbs for additional weight. 7 people is 1050 lbs, exceeding the GVWR. Does the GVWR only apply when towing? In other words, once the camper trailer is leveled and stabilized, 1050 lbs or 7 people is fine? Seems counter-intuitive to advertise such capabilities if the GVWR has to be maintained all the time...

[JFlightRisk]

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

I'll answer a couple of your questions. Tow as level as you can get it. Being a single axle, it won't make a lot of difference if it's a little high in the front.

The two roof supports are all that's needed. You weren't shorted on them, and, yes, install them diagonally on he posts. They're just a safety feature.

[Heartsofwar]

Thanks for the response. At least two issues are knocked out


I hope to get more responses as these are genuine questions, but we shall see.

[sgtpeper67]

Regarding the gaps, I’ve heard some say they use spray foam to seal them up. If I’m in a buggy area I’ve just wadded up a paper towel to plug the holes. Lazy but it works.

[DonaandDon]

GVWR is when towing. Normally applies to what the truck can safely pull.

When ever using a touch up color pen. Start with a lighter color and apply let dry and repeat to get the matching desired color.

City water connection (pressure) is dead-ended at the freshwater pump. The discharge check valve on the pump will not allow to fill the FW tank. there should be a conical strainer on the city-water fitting, this check valve (different) allows water to pressurize the system for use. Smaller RVs generally have an outside (pours pout) connection to fill the FW tank.

Maintenance supplies; To include sealers/urethane is a user preference. Additionally, I do like a good PTFE spray lube. Good for door locks/latches, stairs, hinges, hitches, ect..

Two other suggestions: 1 Pool noodles; we use them for securing items from in the fridge and microwave plate to items in the cabinet. 2 YouTube; It is your friend, and this search.
https://cse.google.com/csecx=0150660...95:_douuy_o5dq

Good Luck.

[bigdav160]

• When towing the camper trailer, should it be level or slightly raised at the hitch?

Level to slightly down. This will put more weight on the ball and help prevent the trailer from swaying

• Does the camper trailer brakes auto engage unless connected via the 7-pin towing cable? The reason I ask is I was reversing the camper trailer into my drive way after a quick setup in front to season it, and I noticed the brakes squealing a lot every time I reversed. As soon as I connected the 7-pin towing cable, it stopped. Did I damage anything?

The trailer brakes are likely hydraulic so they try to engage through the coupling when pushing the trailer in reverse. The electrical connector engages a lockout solenoid through the vehicle's backup light circuit.

• We've noticed several small holes or tears in the tent material in a few places near the Velcro on the sides of the pull-out dinette section. Does Jayco repair / cover these under warranty? I'm trying to figure out if we should take it to a dealer to have them fixed / repaired.

My experience is Jayco will weasel out of any warranty claim but it sounds like your tenting got caught in the bed slides. Not a warranty claim. It's important to keep the dinette tent out of the way when sliding the bed in or it will get damaged. I am sure there are patch material to repair.

• Also, on both sides of the dinette just passed the 90 degree bend, the tent material comes down just enough to cover the side / slide out, but it doesn't Velcro or attach to the shell in any way. I can stick my entire hand into / out of the side of the tent. Is this normal? I do see an emergency 'EXIT' tag in this area, so I'm unsure if this is a necessary evil for the emergency exit. At the very least, it doesn't seem very thermal proof...

On m camper the tenting is attached or uses snaps and velcro in this area. Do you have a picture?

• We noticed the rollers for the slide outs push a small section of the rubber sealer out so there is a small air gap, does anyone plug this with something? Again, seems a good way to lose heat in the winter...

Popups do not have any insulation and heat rises so I doubt there is anything that can help.

• The undersides of the slide-outs is straight unprotected plywood. I thought the entire underside was suppose to be protected via a water-resistant poly flex material?

You're going to find that the flooring, coated or not, is not rot resistant. The only chance to making it last is to avoid storing your trailer outside. Store it indoors when not in use.

• Where does everyone store their slide-out supports, diagonal lift structure supports, lift system handle, and stabilizer lift handle? We do not want to store these inside as it could contribute to scuffing the floor / cabinets. I was thinking we could secure them to the front storage cage, but it seems best option is a tight bungee cord. Any other ideas?

Bed supports go under the mattress. Jack and lift handle go in the cabinet near the door. Sometimes just inside the door of the camper if I am feeling lazy.


No idea what a level pro is

[Heartsofwar]

Originally Posted by bigdav160

• We've noticed several small holes or tears in the tent material in a few places near the Velcro on the sides of the pull-out dinette section. Does Jayco repair / cover these under warranty? I'm trying to figure out if we should take it to a dealer to have them fixed / repaired.

My experience is Jayco will weasel out of any warranty claim but it sounds like your tenting got caught in the bed slides. Not a warranty claim. It's important to keep the dinette tent out of the way when sliding the bed in or it will get damaged. I am sure there are patch material to repair.

Here's a couple images of the holes:


https://photos.app.goo.gl/y88Z7rbtZqD6Cnwb9


https://photos.app.goo.gl/m25mbYSgRQPdRwQC7

Originally Posted by bigdav160

• Also, on both sides of the dinette just passed the 90 degree bend, the tent material comes down just enough to cover the side / slide out, but it doesn't Velcro or attach to the shell in any way. I can stick my entire hand into / out of the side of the tent. Is this normal? I do see an emergency 'EXIT' tag in this area, so I'm unsure if this is a necessary evil for the emergency exit. At the very least, it doesn't seem very thermal proof...

On m camper the tenting is attached or uses snaps and velcro in this area. Do you have a picture?

ok, here are some photos of hole on the right side of the dinette pull out:



From Outside: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5cuKHM4HStURRr529


From Inside: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KhvPfZytXV3AjVZx7


And for comparison, the opposite side of the dinette: https://photos.app.goo.gl/J9LDCoBuZuTM6tfY7


See how one side is held down with a screw? Its like they forgot to screw it down. Honestly, the tent material doesn't even reach the rail. If there is suppose to be a screw fastener there, not sure how they'd do it.

Originally Posted by bigdav160

• The undersides of the slide-outs is straight unprotected plywood. I thought the entire underside was suppose to be protected via a water-resistant poly flex material?

You're going to find that the flooring, coated or not, is not rot resistant. The only chance to making it last is to avoid storing your trailer outside. Store it indoors when not in use.

I live in an HoA, the trailer has to be parked in the garage; so no issue there.



Thanks for answering a good amount of my questions. I was a little worried this forum was dead, but it just takes time

[Heartsofwar]

Also, can someone help me understand the electrical system?


The box outside the camper trailer has the following:


- propane igniter
- propane gas dial (High medium low)
- Propane pilot / pilot viewer port


- Refrigerator dial (1 - 7)


- 120V on / off switch
- 12V on / off switch


Its my understanding that the camper trailer can be used exclusively in 12V (DC) mode OR 120V (AC) mode depending on flipping the 12v / 120v switches.


This past weekend, I setup the Pup (drydock) and got it seasoned, took more photos for the above comments, and learned more about the systems, but what surprised me is my interior Pup lights and roof vent still worked even when the 12V switch was off.



Is this normal? Do I have a short somewhere? The big items like furnace, refrigerator, and water pump wouldn't work without flipping the switch.

[bigdav160]

I am not sure which 12volt switch you are referring to. There should be a safety switch in the roof to turn the lights off, when the roof is down, if they are left on unintentionally.

The holes in your tenting looked just like it was pinched in the bed slide.

My camper is different in that there is a snap in that corner by the slide out. Yours might be missing a screw. If the tenting is pulled to tight in that corner then it might need a cable adjustment.

You fridge is almost certainly a 3-way. 120volt, 12volt and propane. The controls you mentioned are to run on propane. It might seem strange to build a fire in the back of a fridge to make ice but it will.

[IndyRick]

Originally Posted by Heartsofwar

Hello everyone... I recently purchased a new Jayco Jay Sport 12SC and had quite a few questions. I feel like an idiot on some of these, but I am a total newb when it comes to towing and recreation.

• I put my Level Mate Pro on the inside of the side cabinet door just directly to the right of the door. This was the closest to the front that I could get while still being able to open the camper trailer door, open the cabinet door, and flip the on-off switch from standing next to it. I'm curious where everyone else put theirs?
  
  I started with mine beside the refrigerator, but just moved it to above the LP gas detector. My understanding is that it's best to mount it facing a side. I turn it on during some stop before arrival.
  
• For my level mate pro I used 85" wide and 177" length. Can someone corroborate? I did my measurements in the dark, seems right, but I might be off on length a little.
  
  I can't access the measurements without being at the PUP, but your numbers sound right.
  
• I haven't connected a hose / water source yet, but does the water tank fill and the faucet always pull water from the tank via the pump or does the water source push the faucet only. Do we manually choose when to use the tank? Where do I fill the tank?
  
  The water tank fill is right beside the entry door.
  
• The undersides of the slide-outs is straight unprotected plywood. I thought the entire underside was suppose to be protected via a water-resistant poly flex material?
  
  The underside of the bunk ends are not considered part of the underside of the body of the PUP. If you get water on the bottom of the bunks, then you're in a flood and you have LOTS more to worry about. :-)
  

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-

[IndyRick]

All of the 1st half of your post describes the refrigerator controls. Those controls control the refrigerator only, and have no impact on whether the PUP is using 12f120v. The furnace turns on with the lever on the top of the thermostat, and the water pump switch is located on the aft bulkhead of the forward dinette bench seat.

[Heartsofwar]

Originally Posted by Heartsofwar

[/COLOR]


Here's a couple images of the holes:


https://photos.app.goo.gl/y88Z7rbtZqD6Cnwb9


https://photos.app.goo.gl/m25mbYSgRQPdRwQC7



[/COLOR]

ok, here are some photos of hole on the right side of the dinette pull out:



From Outside: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5cuKHM4HStURRr529


From Inside: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KhvPfZytXV3AjVZx7


And for comparison, the opposite side of the dinette: https://photos.app.goo.gl/J9LDCoBuZuTM6tfY7


See how one side is held down with a screw? Its like they forgot to screw it down. Honestly, the tent material doesn't even reach the rail. If there is suppose to be a screw fastener there, not sure how they'd do it.

Just got the trailer back from a dealership. They fixed both these issues under warranty stating the canvas material wasn't properly secured from factory and the smaller holes weren't my fault. They installed all new canvas in that section.


They also found another section of canvas near the front not properly fastened, but they were able to just screw it down.

[Heartsofwar]

Originally Posted by IndyRick

The underside of the bunk ends are not considered part of the underside of the body of the PUP. If you get water on the bottom of the bunks, then you're in a flood and you have LOTS more to worry about. :-)

I wasn't sure if people have had issues with water runoff / splashing up the underside and getting them wet. I might try protecting these with some reflectix, maybe...

[IndyRick]

Originally Posted by Heartsofwar

I wasn't sure if people have had issues with water runoff / splashing up the underside and getting them wet. I might try protecting these with some reflectix, maybe...

In an Earth-normal gravity environment, the chances of rain splashing up, in even the most severe thunderstorm, is near zero. In extreme winds, you might get some spray (but, in those kinds of winds in a PUP your greater worry will likely be soiling your undies). However, if you want some protection, you might consider painting it.