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Old 07-22-2019, 06:54 PM   #1
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A bit of a crank problem

Today I purchased my first pop-up camper. The seller was an honest man, and pointed out to me the fact that the receiver for the crank handle was out of shape, as though cranking it had made it so it is not square.

The trailer is a Jay Series 2006 806 model.

The attached photo does not show the extent of the damage.

This will need to be repaired right away, as it will make cranking difficult, if not impossible.

My questions are:

1. is this an easy fix, or is it a "replace the whole assembly" sort of thing. I dropped by a dealer and they are looking into it.

2. Is there a way to prevent this, such as applying graphite to the four sliding poles?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:09 PM   #2
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For the interim before you replace that, I'd take out that stop screw, so the crank slides further in, and catches a fresh part of the square.

It looks like it's welded in place, so you could remove the mechanism, and have a professional welder remove the bad piece, and weld on a new section of harder metal.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:28 PM   #3
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That's a great idea--I'll start there. The reason the stop screw is there, I was told, was to limit the crank so that it wouldn't hit the tail-light. But that doesn't give enough torque, so the end is damaged. I might try to make/buy a longer crank rod.

Thanks for getting back to me.

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Originally Posted by JFlightRisk View Post
For the interim before you replace that, I'd take out that stop screw, so the crank slides further in, and catches a fresh part of the square.

It looks like it's welded in place, so you could remove the mechanism, and have a professional welder remove the bad piece, and weld on a new section of harder metal.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:50 PM   #4
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The original crank should not have been that loose to cause it to round off, it would have been a snug fit. My money is on someone using a drill and socket that didn"t quite fit right.

The roofs are not that hard to crank up if the cables and pulleys are properly lubricated underneath
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:11 PM   #5
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Thanks--I'll look into lubrication too. I bought it yesterday and haven't picked it up yet, but today I had cataracts surgery. Once I can read better I'll spend some manual time!

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The original crank should not have been that loose to cause it to round off, it would have been a snug fit. My money is on someone using a drill and socket that didn"t quite fit right.

The roofs are not that hard to crank up if the cables and pulleys are properly lubricated underneath
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:18 PM   #6
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If you want a quick fix put the crank back on, drill a hole clear through and put in a bolt and locknut. Or have a welder put a couple of spot welds to hold it in place.

If you want to use a drill to crank it up and down consider welding on an appropriate big as possible bolt that you can put a socket onto. Use a high grade bolt, not standard softer one.
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Old 07-24-2019, 04:23 PM   #7
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I would investigate why it rounded over in the first place. The crank mechanism looks generally okay (clean an no rust, no cable fraying, although the bottom right cable might have stretched considerably as it is fully adjusted. I would be more likely to suspect a problem with one of the corner posts that is causing the roof to be hard to lift. You might need to get the corner fixed first. Once you are sure that everything is okay, then get the lift socket replaced.

If the guy selling it is the original owner, remind him that his vintage of Jayco pup had a lifetime warranty on the lifter mechanism. He might actually be able to get the whole thing fixed under warranty before selling to you. The warranty does not transfer to second owners.
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:08 PM   #8
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Saw the title and thought my wife had put up a post about me!
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Old 07-26-2019, 11:20 AM   #9
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Really good point on the warranty, but he already signed it over to me and I got the plates. He may have sold it much cheaper than he might have if he had taken it in--it was sold to me for about 1/2 of what similar trailers are selling.

The trailer is super-clean, and all the parts are there. It was a couple who are older than me, but he gave me thorough information on it, and he has every documentation.


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I would investigate why it rounded over in the first place. The crank mechanism looks generally okay (clean an no rust, no cable fraying, although the bottom right cable might have stretched considerably as it is fully adjusted. I would be more likely to suspect a problem with one of the corner posts that is causing the roof to be hard to lift. You might need to get the corner fixed first. Once you are sure that everything is okay, then get the lift socket replaced.

If the guy selling it is the original owner, remind him that his vintage of Jayco pup had a lifetime warranty on the lifter mechanism. He might actually be able to get the whole thing fixed under warranty before selling to you. The warranty does not transfer to second owners.
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:40 PM   #10
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If the original owner takes it to the dealer, I seriously doubt the dealer is going to check the DMV to see if the title has changed ownership.

How friendly are you with the seller?
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:30 PM   #11
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If the original owner takes it to the dealer, I seriously doubt the dealer is going to check the DMV to see if the title has changed ownership.

How friendly are you with the seller?
The owner is elderly and probably not interested. I removed the set screw that was factory installed so the crank goes in a bit too far and hits the tail light on each turn. I found metal rods the right size at Home Depot that match the crank, so I'll probably just have my son-in-law make a crank with a "T" end that is long enough to miss the tail light. I have lowered it once, and now it is parked at my daughter's place. I'll probably get it cranked up in a couple of weeks and see what I've got.

Taking the set screw out means that the crank can go fully into the receiver and make good contact.

Thanks for the suggestion, though!
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Old 08-03-2019, 09:45 PM   #12
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If the original owner takes it to the dealer, I seriously doubt the dealer is going to check the DMV to see if the title has changed ownership.

How friendly are you with the seller?
Don't think it has anything to do with the DMV. Pretty sure that the original selling dealer sends the original owner information to Jayco to register for warranty. Just like Santa Clause - they know, they always know...
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:28 AM   #13
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I was able to use the crank ok last weekend, but since the set-screw (in photo) is gone, the crank goes in quite a bit and then hits the crank door and tail-light each time around.

Home Depot had a 3' 3/4" square tube available. My son-in-law took it in to work and cut it in half, then welded it together for a two-handled crank.

I'll probably use it on Friday to see if it is an improvement.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:13 PM   #14
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I know this is an old post but the pictured lift system looks just like the system in my 2008 1206. Do you have any pictures of the other rear corner? I am in the process of repairing the lift system and its apparent it has been worked on before. Just wanting to make sure what is there is correct. Also, if anyone knows the location of each lift cable on the main lift block.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:38 PM   #15
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JGibson, I am not aware of different configurations of L&W lifts used on Jayco trailers but if the picture in the original post is corner #1, going clockwise around the camper, your pic looks like corner #2. Corner #3 will look similar and IIRC, corner #4 just has one cable and one lift track.

My experience is the main cable rotates some as it's tensioned but shouldn't be tangled or rubbing too much on other cables.

Yes, it looks like the floor had water damage and the corner pulley ripped out of the floor (somewhat common). What type of problem are you trying to troubleshoot?
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:32 AM   #16
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If the winch is located on the curb side rear then yeah my picture is location #2 (going clockwise). I know that the winch can be positioned in the front as well. I have also seen pictures where people's floor tracks are slightly different than mine. So i guess L&W systems all function the same but use different components some times. The site that i am looking at has corner tracks with no pulleys, single pulleys and double pulleys. None of my corners have a double. Just wanting to make sure a 2008 1206 looks like my corner. Tks
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