Battery

[Western NC]

Hi folks, I'm new to the forum and new to camping. I just purchased a used 1207 popup. Rookie questions I'm sure. When the camper is folded down and not in use, Should the battery be disconnected? If I don't will the converter pull the battery down?

[RVhiker]

Welcome to the forum. As you suspect, the battery should be disconnected when the trailer is not in use. Control systems for the refrigerator, water heater, and propane detector would run down the battery otherwise. Be sure to hook the battery back up before towing the trailer again.

You could install a battery disconnect switch, if you want, which makes disconnecting the battery somewhat more convenient.

[Western NC]

Thanks for the info. I have a lot to learn but looking forward to it.

[emjayuu]

Or you can simply pull out the inline fuse

[raising4daughters]

Be bought a used 1007 back in 2009 and the battery was DOA.

We only go to campgrounds with electric (preferably with electric and water), so we haven't replaced the battery. I've had some tell me we need one, but the folks at Jayco say we don't need one.

[Ela1948]

[QUOTE=raising4daughters;343582]Be bought a used 1007 back in 2009 and the battery was DOA.

We only go to campgrounds with electric (preferably with electric and water), so we haven't replaced the battery. I've had some tell me we need one, but the folks at Jayco say we don't need one.[/QUOTE

So how do you keep the refrigerator cooling and all of detectors operational when you are traveling to the campground? Its my understanding that all components of the unit except the your stove top require dc power.

[BrentB]

Originally Posted by raising4daughters

Be bought a used 1007 back in 2009 and the battery was DOA.

We only go to campgrounds with electric (preferably with electric and water), so we haven't replaced the battery. I've had some tell me we need one, but the folks at Jayco say we don't need one.

As Ela1948 stated, you need the battery to run your refrigerator (even on propane) and also to power your emergency brakes should your trailer become detached from the tow vehicle.

[tnchuck100]

Originally Posted by Ela1948

So how do you keep the refrigerator cooling and all of detectors operational when you are traveling to the campground? Its my understanding that all components of the unit except the your stove top require dc power.

Originally Posted by BrentB

As Ela1948 stated, you need the battery to run your refrigerator (even on propane) and also to power your emergency brakes should your trailer become detached from the tow vehicle.

Most pop-ups do not have electronic controls for the appliances (refrigerator, water heater, etc). About the only thing on a pop-up has that will use DC power while traveling is the CO/Propane detector and maybe the radio if it has one. And as long as you are connected to the TV all 12V systems will be powered. The only real need for the battery would be to power the brakes in the event the trailer were to get separated from the TV. Not all pop-ups have brakes.

[raising4daughters]

Good questions above on why we've opted for no battery (and I mean this to be helpful to the OP, not hijack the thread).

We do not have trailer brakes and, therefore, do not need a battery for that purpose. We are, however, contemplating adding trailer brakes (see another thread I started) and I realize that step could necessitate replacing the original battery.

In terms of keeping the refrigerator running when driving, we have a 3-way refrigerator. I simply turn it from 110V to 12V and, I believe, the car battery charges the refrigerator. If that's not correct, I'm all ears, but that's how it was explained to me. If the car battery is NOT running the refrigerator as I assume, I'd then just switch over to propane operation. I understand many do this while driving.

Lastly, I'm not THAT concerned about the refrig not running while driving. For a variety of reasons, we camp within a 2-3 hour radius of home. We plug in and load the refrig a day or two before leaving and unplug from 110V just as we're leaving. The 2-3 hour trip with the refrig sealed shut doesn't allow the temperatures to rise too much.

I'd switch to propane or switch to buying our refrigerable goods at our destination before dropping $75-$100 for another battery if I learn that a separate battery is required to run the refrig while driving.

But, for us, this all may be moot if I add trailer brakes.

[tnchuck100]

Originally Posted by raising4daughters

Good questions above on why we've opted for no battery (and I mean this to be helpful to the OP, not hijack the thread).

We do not have trailer brakes and, therefore, do not need a battery for that purpose. We are, however, contemplating adding trailer brakes (see another thread I started) and I realize that step could necessitate replacing the original battery.

In terms of keeping the refrigerator running when driving, we have a 3-way refrigerator. I simply turn it from 110V to 12V and, I believe, the car battery charges the refrigerator. If that's not correct, I'm all ears, but that's how it was explained to me. If the car battery is NOT running the refrigerator as I assume, I'd then just switch over to propane operation. I understand many do this while driving.

Lastly, I'm not THAT concerned about the refrig not running while driving. For a variety of reasons, we camp within a 2-3 hour radius of home. We plug in and load the refrig a day or two before leaving and unplug from 110V just as we're leaving. The 2-3 hour trip with the refrig sealed shut doesn't allow the temperatures to rise too much.

I'd switch to propane or switch to buying our refrigerable goods at our destination before dropping $75-$100 for another battery if I learn that a separate battery is required to run the refrig while driving.

But, for us, this all may be moot if I add trailer brakes.

Originally Posted by tnchuck100

Most pop-ups do not have electronic controls for the appliances (refrigerator, water heater, etc). About the only thing on a pop-up has that will use DC power while traveling is the CO/Propane detector and maybe the radio if it has one. And as long as you are connected to the TV all 12V systems will be powered. The only real need for the battery would be to power the brakes in the event the trailer were to get separated from the TV. Not all pop-ups have brakes.

See highlighted.

[raising4daughters]

Thanks Chuck. Sounds like I'm good unless I add brakes.