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03-17-2016, 09:56 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van Alstyne, Texas
Posts: 65
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Brakes - Would you do it?
For several years we used a 1992 Cardinal SD to go Colorado for camping trips of up to two full weeks. For several reasons we just stopped going in 1998 and the trailer has just sat unused. A couple of years ago my grandmother passed away and I am still thinking I want to keep the trailer and try to get it back into shape. It still has the original 1992 tires that really need to be replaced and I fully intend on doing that. Another matter is the condition of the surge brakes. The brake fluid reservoir is nasty and rusty and I have concluded that the whole system needs to be reworked. New master cylinder, reservoir, cylinders on the wheels, etc. I have a 30 x 50 metal building at my place where I would like to work on everything inside and not have to worry about weather. The problem is I live about 20 miles from where the trailer currently sits. I will buy new tires before moving it, but what about the short drive with no brakes? Totally unloaded, no water, no supplies or any kind, just the trailer.
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03-17-2016, 10:38 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: State of Confusion
Posts: 5,004
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I'd probably do it.
Murff
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Murff
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03-17-2016, 10:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 1,560
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I would consider replacing the surge brakes with electric brakes I think you will find the cost to be about the same.
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03-17-2016, 11:01 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van Alstyne, Texas
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedrck46
I would consider replacing the surge brakes with electric brakes I think you will find the cost to be about the same.
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I am weighing that option. It does cost a bit more in my case I think. If I repair all the surge stuff I was going to buy all new brake assemblies for each wheel but if I do the electric conversion I also have to add new drums. 2 axles. I am thinking about it though.
The question still remains though. Do I move it with no brakes to a place where I can work inside and all my tools are available or do the brake work before I move it and have to work outside and hope I dont need a tool I left at home.
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03-17-2016, 11:08 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,657
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I think if you don't drive it like you stole it you should be fine. I know I would do it.
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03-18-2016, 02:44 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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I would tow it home The axels should be fine just replace the hydraulic hub assemblies with electric hub assemblies and run the wiring for the brakes.
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03-18-2016, 03:52 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 1,560
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Do a search on google and youtube for information on changing from surge to electric brakes. You should not have to change axel/s but you will need to have backing plates to install the elect brake assembly's if they aren't already in place. My opinion is you will have much better brake control with electric brakes. In addition you will need a brake controller and a breakaway switch.
Should be no problem towing the camper 20 miles without the brakes working.
Just keep your distance and drive within the limits.
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2004 Jay Feather 25E
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03-18-2016, 04:22 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 286
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Take it easy, and you should be fine...
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03-18-2016, 06:03 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gone campin
Take it easy, and you should be fine...
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X2 I agree. Just take it easy, keep your speed down and your truck will stop the unloaded unit just fine. Not going that far.
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Joe Hinson
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03-18-2016, 06:06 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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I might also try to force some grease into the wheels. They could be frozen after sitting for so long.
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Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
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2007 Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins(SOLD)
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 4WD
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03-18-2016, 07:57 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PNW
Posts: 5,195
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I would inspect the entire trailer before I spent any money on it. After sitting unused for so long, there could be many problems that would cost an awful lot of money to repair.
Roof condition, structural integrity (rotten wood or canvas, extreme frame rust, etc), and electrical and plumbing problems are some things to look for.
NADA value of your trailer is pretty low, at $750 - $900, so is it really something you'd want to spend money on? If you decided to upgrade to a bigger trailer in the future, you could be out a bundle.
1992 Jayco Jay Cardinal SD Standard Equipment, Prices & Specs - NADAguides
But if it's sentimental value, then money might not be an issue.
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Bill
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab
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03-18-2016, 11:35 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van Alstyne, Texas
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokerBill
I would inspect the entire trailer before I spent any money on it. After sitting unused for so long, there could be many problems that would cost an awful lot of money to repair.
Roof condition, structural integrity (rotten wood or canvas, extreme frame rust, etc), and electrical and plumbing problems are some things to look for.
NADA value of your trailer is pretty low, at $750 - $900, so is it really something you'd want to spend money on? If you decided to upgrade to a bigger trailer in the future, you could be out a bundle.
1992 Jayco Jay Cardinal SD Standard Equipment, Prices & Specs - NADAguides
But if it's sentimental value, then money might not be an issue.
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There is only spot that I know has rotted wood and its pretty easy to deal with I think. The canvas is excellent. If it was wet when we broke camp we opened it and cleaned everything as soon as we got home. We don't really have to deal with frame rust here. There might be some spots where the paint has come off and some rust has formed, but nothing structural I don't think. I am not sure if the refrigerator is going to come to life or not. It does not have A/C and if we ever stay in Texas that might be something we would like. I think re-caulking everything would be in my best interest.
The big thing here is that its FREE. The only comparable thing that is new runs $20K. I can do a lot of repairs for $20.
I want to make sure my kids are on board for camping before we even think about an upgrade.
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03-18-2016, 12:38 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PNW
Posts: 5,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5thGenTexan
There is only spot that I know has rotted wood and its pretty easy to deal with I think. The canvas is excellent. If it was wet when we broke camp we opened it and cleaned everything as soon as we got home. We don't really have to deal with frame rust here. There might be some spots where the paint has come off and some rust has formed, but nothing structural I don't think. I am not sure if the refrigerator is going to come to life or not. It does not have A/C and if we ever stay in Texas that might be something we would like. I think re-caulking everything would be in my best interest.
The big thing here is that its FREE. The only comparable thing that is new runs $20K. I can do a lot of repairs for $20.
I want to make sure my kids are on board for camping before we even think about an upgrade.
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Well then it sounds like it should make a nice camper for you with a little time and money. Good luck with the project!
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Bill
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab
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03-18-2016, 01:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: winnipeg
Posts: 257
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Depending on what this 20 miles look like I wouldn't even think twice. I'm in the prairies so to go 20 miles taking it easy with hazard lights on is no big deal but if there are mountain passes or tight 2lane highway with steep grades and hair pin turns I might be a little more reluctant.
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03-18-2016, 01:13 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van Alstyne, Texas
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiankid
Depending on what this 20 miles look like I wouldn't even think twice. I'm in the prairies so to go 20 miles taking it easy with hazard lights on is no big deal but if there are mountain passes or tight 2lane highway with steep grades and hair pin turns I might be a little more reluctant.
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It currently sits at 630' and will gain elevation to 784'. 2 lane Texas highway, I am not taking the busy way.
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03-19-2016, 08:53 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,714
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I would tow it during "quiet hours". Last thing you need is some dipsh*t cutting in front of you and braking. Good luck with the resto... I have never been a fan of surge brakes so personally I would switch over to electric..
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2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
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03-19-2016, 09:03 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,207
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I would do it. It's not a WHOLE lotta trailer. If your truck is in good working order, you should be okay for that short distance. As was stated before, take it slow and easy.
I towed a boat with surge brakes that I'm pretty sure weren't working for many years. I was young and naive, and had no idea about surge brakes, how they worked or how to fix them. Never had a problem, and I'm not that lucky. Older and wiser, I take my trailer brakes a bit more seriously...
As for the resto, I'd like to see your progress. Picking up an old PUP and bringing it back to life is on my bucket list. A project like that would be GREAT for my son and I.
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