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Old 12-25-2012, 10:00 PM   #1
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Bumper Hitch for Baja 10Y and spare tire remount. Ideas?

Hi All!,

I have an 07 Baja 10Y I will be towing with a 4.0L Tacoma. I want to put a 2" reciever hitch on the rear bumper to hold a motorcycle carrier which would then slide into that. The idea is to put a 250 pound bike on that carrier because the front cargo area will be loaded with additional bike(s) and gear and I want to balance the load a bit to avoid excessive Tongue Weight. Problem is the spare tire is mounted on that bumper. I thought I could remount it under the back end of the camper with additional structure added to hold the spare tire between the frame rails. The bumper looks to be built/attached well enough to support the loaded carrier but I'm looking for ideas from anyone that may have already done this modification. Particularly the spare remount. I found a hitch mount from Curtis that should bolt on the 4" square bumper with ease. I'm hoping to use the original spare mount to some degree under the back end, there is a lot of ground clearance. Has anyone done this mod?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:01 AM   #2
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This might give you some ideas.

Whatever you do, be sure to attach to the trailer's main framework. I don't think the rear bumper alone will support the weight of the bike.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:18 AM   #3
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I'm not a fan of mounting additional "stuff" off the back of any RV trailer, but I agree any consideration should include utilizing the trailers main frame, not just the bumper.

Since you already have the TV/POP, and sounds like you tend to load on the heavy side, I would vivit a CAT scale and check your existing loaded weights before making any modifications. Might be good to know how much remaining capacity you have to actually work with.

Cat scale how-to: https://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...igh-Your-tt-tv

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:20 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, I liked the mod on the Cobalt as a referance. I'll look further into what the bumper will actually hold. It is pretty stout as a 4" square box and welded to the frame rail ends, however this area may need more beef to tie it in better. The trailer has a overall cargo capacity of over 2100 lbs. and the cargo deck is large enough for lots of stuff which would makes it potentially easy to make the tongue weight too much for the truck, hence the rear mount idea.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:13 PM   #5
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did you figure out your spare tire mount yet? I put mine under the rear to get it off of the bumper. If you haven't found a way I can send you pics of what I did or a link to another forum where I got the idea.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDSHYA View Post
did you figure out your spare tire mount yet? I put mine under the rear to get it off of the bumper. If you haven't found a way I can send you pics of what I did or a link to another forum where I got the idea.
I am also looking to relo the bumper mounted spare on my 10Y so I can add a bicycle rack to the bumper. Can any of you provide pics please?
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetech View Post
Thanks guys, I liked the mod on the Cobalt as a referance. I'll look further into what the bumper will actually hold. It is pretty stout as a 4" square box and welded to the frame rail ends, however this area may need more beef to tie it in better. The trailer has a overall cargo capacity of over 2100 lbs. and the cargo deck is large enough for lots of stuff which would makes it potentially easy to make the tongue weight too much for the truck, hence the rear mount idea.
I've been thinking about doing something similar so I can use my hitch mount cargo rack for my 120 liter cooler (that's where the beer goes! ) but my main concern is the leverage affect of so much weight being so far past the center of gravity. Your trailer is shorter than mine by a couple feet so you might be ok, but I would have serious concerns about adding that much weight to the far end of the trailer, even if the total weight remains inside the "capacity". Not all weight is equal in this situation, because the trailer capacity is designed with the thought that the cargo will be within the trailer's footprint, as opposed to attached to the very far end.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:50 PM   #8
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There is a thing called the principle of moments when dealing with a teeter totter design such as a single axle trailer. You are saying you don't want to add tongue weight but the facts are the design balance of your trailer is important. Adding moment length changes the design, adding weight to one of the ends changes the design. So, some thought needs to be put into your plan that adds some weight to both ends of the problem and keeps the designed in balance intact. You might find that the 250lbs on the rear takes most of the front weight away just based on teeter totter physics. Your front tire on the front might put it back into balance. Do the math and then do the work.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:24 PM   #9
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Yeah thinking about weight and the OP here, understand the 10Y has a massive toy deck that is well forward of CG and loading that deck very disproportionately increases the percentage of weight placed on the tongue. Moving a 60lb spare and mount off the rear bumper and 2' toward the axle (under the rear of the trailer) will not help this dynamic, but to the balance question: moving rear tire forward should allow for additional weight to go on the rear bumper without negative effect. Easiest test? Weigh tongue as it stands, remove spare and put it (gently) on top of the trailer at the rear, add your bumper cooler (or moto or bike) to the rear and re-measure tongue weight. I'd guess that it changes very little until you're well past 200lbs.

Still looking for a photo of the relo under the rear of the trailer! Anyone have one?
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #10
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Lets guess at this. I measure from the center of the ball to the center of the axle and get 8 feet. (this is an example). I measure from the center of the alxe to the end of the back bumper and get 4 feet. I name the 8 feet the effort distance and the 4 feet the resistance distance. I divide the effort distance by the resistance distance and get .5.....that's a negative mechanical advantage number. So if I add 1 lb to the bumper it will take 1/2 lb off the ball. That is 1 lb times my negative mechanical advantage. (in my example).
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