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Old 05-11-2020, 03:08 PM   #1
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Interior lights

I’m sure there is probably a thread all ready but I can’t seem to find it. I just bought a 1998 Heritage Yosemite. From what I can see there should be a pressure switch which allows the interior light to work when open. I have looked for this switch and can seem to find it. Is it possible there isn’t one? If so how do I get my lights to work.
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Old 05-11-2020, 03:16 PM   #2
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Congratulations on the new pup and welcome.

What are you using for power? Are you plugged into shore power or running off a battery? Have you checked the fuses and circuit breakers?
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Old 05-11-2020, 04:37 PM   #3
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I have tried both a fully charged battery and plugged into city power.
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Old 05-11-2020, 05:13 PM   #4
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The switches on both of our SOB pop ups were on the inside frame of the camper box where the rear bed platform comes in contact. If you push the platform back in few inches, and feel underneath near the corners, you should find it. They were there on both our Viking, and Fleetwood pop ups. They're usually quite well hidden.
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Old 05-12-2020, 10:15 PM   #5
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Not there either. I’m at a loss as where to look. I’ve checked the top of the post with the wiring. Plus all other posts and the whole edge of the roof. No switch or wires that are just hanging. Not under the bed ends or by the flip sink. I’ve changed all the fuses and checked for circuit breakers. I’m guess for now I’ll just use battery powered lights.!
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Old 05-12-2020, 11:54 PM   #6
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Any possibility the bulbs are blown?
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:15 AM   #7
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Not there either. I’m at a loss as where to look. I’ve checked the top of the post with the wiring. Plus all other posts and the whole edge of the roof. No switch or wires that are just hanging. Not under the bed ends or by the flip sink. I’ve changed all the fuses and checked for circuit breakers. I’m guess for now I’ll just use battery powered lights.!
Circuit breakers are 120 volts. Your problem is 12 volts. Buy a multi-meter and learn to use it. You tube is your friend. Are you using a wall switch or a switch on the fixture? Battery charged? Battery disconnect on?
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Old 05-13-2020, 06:36 AM   #8
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Jflighteiak, I’ve check the ohms on one of the bulbs and it was good. Since they all look new( no dust or grime) I figure the previous owner had changed them all recently.
Cavie it’s only the ceiling lights that don’t work. The porch and step light work as well as the water pump. They lights don’t work on either shore power or battery power.
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Old 05-13-2020, 06:40 AM   #9
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Jflighteiak, I’ve check the ohms on one of the bulbs and it was good. Since they all look new( no dust or grime) I figure the previous owner had changed them all recently.
Cavie it’s only the ceiling lights that don’t work. The porch and step light work as well as the water pump. They lights don’t work on either shore power or battery power.
Again, Do you have a wall switch or are you using individual switches on the fixtures? Many RV's have both. My 5'er did. I could turn off which ever lights I did not want to use. I had a wall switch by the door.
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Old 05-13-2020, 07:17 AM   #10
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My StarCraft OFF-ROAD POPUP pressure switch for interior lights look like this...


google image...

Mine is mounted on the bottom part of the fold over kitchen. When setup this pressure switch gets pushed in allowing us to turn o the ceiling lights with their normal switch mounted on our wall...

This is a safety feature to keep you from turning on the ceiling lights when you have the POPUP TRAILER roof lowered for travel mode etc...

Ceiling lights work off of 12VDC coming from the batteries...

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Old 05-13-2020, 08:09 AM   #11
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I’m sure there is probably a thread all ready but I can’t seem to find it. I just bought a 1998 Heritage Yosemite. From what I can see there should be a pressure switch which allows the interior light to work when open. I have looked for this switch and can seem to find it. Is it possible there isn’t one? If so how do I get my lights to work.
Does your sink have to fold down before lowering the trailer top? If so, the switch is probably there. Look for wires that may have broken off.
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Old 05-13-2020, 08:13 AM   #12
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Mine was at the sink also.
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Old 05-13-2020, 10:08 AM   #13
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My Brother's PU, has a switch similar to what RoyBraddy, and his is about the same vintage as yours. His is along the driver's side wall on the PU box, I believe closer to the front. It sticks up from the main body of the PU, it is not attached to the roof section, but to the trailer box at the top of the wall section.

You state you see no wires. My brother's also has a couple wires that run from the PU box up to the roof, they get hidden behind the canvas flap for the lifting pole in that same area. He has had issues with the wires connection getting damaged from flexing over the years. Could the previous owner removed the wire, instead of fixing it?
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Old 05-13-2020, 11:08 AM   #14
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If I recall correctly, on our old Starcraft PUP, the switch was behind one of the seat backs in the dinette slideout.

Hope that helps
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Old 05-13-2020, 06:31 PM   #15
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Thanks for not letting me give up. I found the elusive switch. It was on the inside of the bottom of the sink. I saw it but didn’t recognize it for the missing switch because the inside guts of the switch had been removed.
Thanks for all your help.
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Old 05-13-2020, 07:15 PM   #16
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So glad you found it. A new one will get you lights again.
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Old 05-13-2020, 08:39 PM   #17
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Definitely! Thanks again!
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:38 AM   #18
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Thanks for not letting me give up. I found the elusive switch. It was on the inside of the bottom of the sink. I saw it but didn’t recognize it for the missing switch because the inside guts of the switch had been removed.
Thanks for all your help.
I would have to assume that the switch was removed because it didn't work anymore and the wires were joined together permanently to enable the lights to work. But yours don't. Are there hanging wires? Did you get your lights working?

There is a much lower risk of fire if the lights are swapped out for LEDs, the switch would then be unnecessary.
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Old 05-14-2020, 10:38 AM   #19
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The wires were still connected to the switch but the inside guts are gone. I’m just going to add a toggle switch.
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