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Old 04-24-2014, 10:51 AM   #1
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New to us 1206

We picked up our '08 1206 last night and my wife and I had a few questions (I'm sure there will be plenty more as we go).

We found a small hairline crack on the back of the roof where it starts to curve down. It looks like it's had silicone or something put on it, but we're wondering if there is a better repair? No idea how we missed it when we looked it over, but what's done is done, and there is no evidence of water leakage inside the camper.

We were also wondering if there is a list of reputable online vendors here on the forums? We've done some searching, but haven't ran across anything yet. We were wanting to get one of the BAL levelers and set of chocks and there are wildly varying online prices ($65-120 for the leveler alone).
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:51 PM   #2
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I bought a 1206 last year and got everything I needed to go camping online at Amazon. They were the cheapest and shipping was free. As far as parts, I'm not sure as I haven't needed to buy parts yet.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:32 PM   #3
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Well, we leveled it in the driveway this evening and put it up. I think we're going to need to get the cables adjusted so the roof is level. I cranked it up being careful not to make the tension cable too taught and we stopped long before it was really tight. Went to put the main door on and the roof was too low for the slide locks to hit the top plate of the door. So my wife stayed in the camper and watched it raise up to the point the locks would just barely catch the plate (like 1/16" spot on one corner of the lock). I checked the tension cable right before the last click on the winch and it wasn't extremely tight, IMO. On that last click the tension cable with it's screw fell out of the wood on the roof. I didn't hear what sounded like a screw being pried from wood or anything, so I'm wondering if it's happened before. The screw looks like it's been hit with a screwdriver a time or two as the paint is missing and the wood is definitely split out where the screw went in. Either way, the roof looks like it needs to go up about an inch more at least to let the slide locks really do their job. I measured from the bottom edge of the roof trim to the top of the side cap and the door side lift rails are pretty close with the one at the winch being about 1/8-1/4" higher, but they are 3/4" or so higher than the other side of the trailer (they match each other front and back exactly).

So I guess I need to take it in and get the cables adjusted so it will raise to the appropriate height and more even, or get the cables replaced.

When we looked at the camper before we bought it the people had it up already and the main door wasn't installed. We lowered it and raised it, but never installed the door. Live and learn I guess
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:23 PM   #4
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Here's a few photos of the door to make it easier to explain. The first photo is me being off-level, not the camera The door is pushed down as far as it will go.





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Old 04-25-2014, 10:32 PM   #5
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Update: When we lowered the roof after work this evening we noticed that the door side lifter bars would not go down all the way. They are about an inch too high from coming down where they need to be to make the seal. We know that when the couple showed us the camper that it wasn't even near on level ground and the place they stored it next to their house had about a 1 1/2 to 2 foot slope on it. Could the lifter bars be bent out of wack from the camper being stored at an extremely weird angle like that? We managed to get that side latched with the latches adjusted all the way out, but they were still really snug, more than I like. Oh, and the tension cable has definitely been ripped out of the roof more than just this once.

We'll need to find a good service place here in the TX panhandle to get everything fixed. I don't have very good luck when it comes to fixing things like this and I'm willing to pay to have it done. Looks like the only Jayco dealer is in Lubbock.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:04 PM   #6
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I've had some similar problems, especially with the tension cable.. in fact once it came out, I "reinstalled" it into the cabinet inside.

You have the correct tension on the canvas, when the door works properly. Now how you know when you're there, just takes practice. Based on your picture, compared to my camper, I wonder if the metal plate at the top needs to be behind the canvas.

Just so you can get an idea of my process, I'll walk through what I do to get my door going.

First, get the camper level front to back. The stabilizer jacks have to be up for this. It doesn't have to be perfect, I just eyeball it. One way you know you're not level enough is that the lower door won't close correctly.

Next, unlatch the top part of the door from the ceiling. Without hitting yourself in the head, or falling over the luggage, back the door down and step out of the camper onto the step. Close the lower door. Stand on the step, push the upper door up and lower it onto the lower door. Make sure you put the locator pins into their respective holes. Now, if you've got the right canvas height, you can gently pull on the metal plate at the top of the door, by slipping your hands inside the canvas, and the metal plate will come flush onto the locking pins. If it's too hard to pull flush, give a small amount of crank to raise the roof. Like a 16th of a turn. Once you're flush, lock the locking pins.

Check the door for proper operation, if it sticks, you're not level enough front to back. Adjust, then the stabilizers can come down.

Consume a celebratory beverage, if you haven't already. You're done!
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Chapter View Post
I've had some similar problems, especially with the tension cable.. in fact once it came out, I "reinstalled" it into the cabinet inside.

You have the correct tension on the canvas, when the door works properly. Now how you know when you're there, just takes practice. Based on your picture, compared to my camper, I wonder if the metal plate at the top needs to be behind the canvas.

Just so you can get an idea of my process, I'll walk through what I do to get my door going.

First, get the camper level front to back. The stabilizer jacks have to be up for this. It doesn't have to be perfect, I just eyeball it. One way you know you're not level enough is that the lower door won't close correctly.

Next, unlatch the top part of the door from the ceiling. Without hitting yourself in the head, or falling over the luggage, back the door down and step out of the camper onto the step. Close the lower door. Stand on the step, push the upper door up and lower it onto the lower door. Make sure you put the locator pins into their respective holes. Now, if you've got the right canvas height, you can gently pull on the metal plate at the top of the door, by slipping your hands inside the canvas, and the metal plate will come flush onto the locking pins. If it's too hard to pull flush, give a small amount of crank to raise the roof. Like a 16th of a turn. Once you're flush, lock the locking pins.

Check the door for proper operation, if it sticks, you're not level enough front to back. Adjust, then the stabilizers can come down.

Consume a celebratory beverage, if you haven't already. You're done!
Thanks Matt. That's basically what we did. We leveled it, then put the stabilizers down just enough there was a little tension on them, and put in the door. We had to crank an inch higher than the tension cable was long for the door to fit and then as you can see the locks at the top were fairly useless. The door is a one piece as far as I can tell.

I called the closest Jayco dealer in Lubbock and they said they don't work on any PUP lifter systems. Period. So I'll have to do some more digging.
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