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Old 05-02-2015, 02:47 PM   #1
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Norcold refer

Fourth trip 8 th night in our hard side Jay Series 12H. We have not been able to get the fridge to cool. Have tried all 3 ways: AC, DC, and propane. Couldn't get the propane to light. We are newbies. Something we are overlooking?
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:14 PM   #2
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Fourth trip 8 th night in our hard side Jay Series 12H. We have not been able to get the fridge to cool. Have tried all 3 ways: AC, DC, and propane. Couldn't get the propane to light. We are newbies. Something we are overlooking?
Just a couple of thoughts...
Was it working OK for your previous trips?
Is the weather hotter now than your previous trips?
Did you cool the fridge before heading out and put COLD food in it?

Our new trailer is our first one with an AC/propane fridge. We were surprised how long it took to cool off using AC (checked with a thermometer) even though it was empty and the day time temps were not hot.
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:24 PM   #3
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First, be aware that your RV Fridge works differently from your home fridge. Your RV refrigerator uses heat to start a chemical reaction, evaporation and condensation that causes the refrigerator to cool. Also be aware that it will usually take 6 to 8 hours for the RV fridge to cool down.

Check all connections, fuses and circuit breaker. Also, if it does not fire on LP gas, you most likely have debris or maybe a spider nest in the burner tube. Just remove the wind deflector plate to see if so. Good Luck!
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:39 PM   #4
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checking for nests

Thanks for the good ideas. How much can we take the system apart to check for debris or nests without b oiling the warranty?
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:48 PM   #5
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Thanks for your response. We have been using the camper in April in Wisconsin and it can be confusing about whether it's the fridge or the air temp that is doing the cooling. I think it worked the first time we camped and it was too cold, below 40, so we turned it down. Last trip it held at 50 but that's not a sare food temp. I plugged it in overnight before we left but there was no cooling at all. So we tried propane which would light but only stay lit while we held down the igniter button.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:11 PM   #6
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Check to make sure you have propane in your tanks and that the lines are tight. If you have a stove use the burners to bleed the air from your lines. After the stove lights try the fridge again. Good luck.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:05 PM   #7
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Thanks to everyone for the good suggestions & Qs. Propane range and hot water heater have gas and work fine. A small pilot light sized flame burns when I push and hold the gas ontrol knob down. The flame shuts off when I stop pushing. Is the frig burner supposed to burn strong like the water heater and furnace? If so then I guess I have to take the trailer into my dealer for warranty service.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:37 PM   #8
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There's a sensor for this pilot flame called a thermocouple. The thermocouple should detect this pilot light by 10 or 15 seconds allowing you to release the button that you're pushing. If you release the button and the pilot light goes out then the flame is not being sensed. Either the thermocouple sensor is bad (or the thermocouple is misadjusted and not getting enough heat from the pilot) or the electronic board that it's hooked to is defective. This thermocouple generates a very low voltage and if the connection to the circuit board is a bit corroded that could cause a problem also. If you can locate the wire from the thermocouple to the circuit board, disconnect it and attempt to clean it and the connection on the board before reattaching it.
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:27 AM   #9
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I would hold the pilot for longer than 15 seconds. Up to a minute even. I work for the local gas company and relight stuff on a regular basis. Hardly any will hold after only 15 seconds.
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:31 AM   #10
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There's a sensor for this pilot flame called a thermocouple. The thermocouple should detect this pilot light by 10 or 15 seconds allowing you to release the button that you're pushing. If you release the button and the pilot light goes out then the flame is not being sensed. Either the thermocouple sensor is bad (or the thermocouple is misadjusted and not getting enough heat from the pilot) or the electronic board that it's hooked to is defective. This thermocouple generates a very low voltage and if the connection to the circuit board is a bit corroded that could cause a problem also. If you can locate the wire from the thermocouple to the circuit board, disconnect it and attempt to clean it and the connection on the board before reattaching it.
Yep the next stop is to our local dealer. What is the reliability of Norcold refers? Is this an isolated case or can we anticipate and prevent other problems?
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Old 05-03-2015, 06:38 AM   #11
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:28 AM   #12
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This is my third RV with Norcold fridges in 10 years. My first RV developed a problem with it's control board after 1 year. That's the only problem I've had with them.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:34 AM   #13
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I would hold the pilot for longer than 15 seconds. Up to a minute even. I work for the local gas company and relight stuff on a regular basis. Hardly any will hold after only 15 seconds.
Makes perfect sense. I was thinking only of my own experience which is very limited. My stove at home requires only about 6 seconds before it senses the pilot flame but I've seen some that require much more time. Thanks for the reminder.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:40 AM   #14
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I know that on my furnace at home that I need to clean the tip of the thermo coupler with Emory cloth ever few years. Haven't looked at the TT fridge, but is there a similar probe that might need to be cleaned?
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:49 PM   #15
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Hi, We picked up a 2016 Jayco 12H hard sided, but have not had a chance to take it out for a trial run before we go on a long trip. Besides the fridge, how has your experience been with the 12 H? Anything to watch out for?
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:39 PM   #16
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I know that on my furnace at home that I need to clean the tip of the thermo coupler with Emory cloth ever few years. Haven't looked at the TT fridge, but is there a similar probe that might need to be cleaned?
Pretty sure your cleaning your flame rod not the thermopile ( more then one thermocouple in one element) being it is your house furnace. The thermopile produces a mv signal by having two different metals heated up at there junction. Cleaning a thermopile will must likely not make a difference in performance. Having the tip(1/4" or so) of the thermopile in direct contact with the flame to produce the most volt. The hotter the Thermopile the more voltage it'll produce. This is why when lighting a pilot light on a stove or fireplace takes a little bit before you can release the button. You need to let the thermopile heat up to produce enough voltage to hold in the gas valve for the pilot flame
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:47 AM   #17
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My old Norcold fridge would take forever (2 minutes) to purge it's leg of the gas line. Then after the burner lit, it would take 30-45 seconds for the thermocouple to show green at the front panel.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:06 PM   #18
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What is the reliability of Norcold refers?
We went 13 years, two different JAYCO MH's with the only issue being a bad design on a door hinge that Norcold remedied. As to cooling, never had an issue and never had to replace a heating element. During the last 3 years that included usage of 3 months straight and several other 3-4 week trips each year.
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