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Old 09-23-2015, 02:14 PM   #21
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You mentioned a black button on the side you could push in a small amt. Try pushing in and turn counter clockwise. I think it is a fuse and the black button should come out with a fuse attached. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:16 PM   #22
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You say the blower moves enough air to activate the sail switch.


About 20 seconds after that is when the controller starts calling for ignition and then gas.


If the thing is operating that way, is seems to me, the controller board is the problem.


You say there is no clicking of the ignition system. But if your finger is on the gas solenoid, can you feel a single hit after the 20 seconds has elapsed? Check for 12v to the solenoid if you can't feel it open.


(I'm heading off to boondock until Tuesday in about 10 minutes)
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:37 PM   #23
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Please check the 5amp fuse behide the black button as Country Boy suggested. This fuse should be power for the ignitor. If its blown the ingitor will not work nor will the gas valve open. No spark, no gas. Always replace with same size and style fuse. Good luck.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:58 PM   #24
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Here is a photo of the "black button". It is located on the FRONT of the furnace (it's clearly visible when you take the louvered metal cover off the front when it is in the cabinet.) It is kitty-corner from the on-off rocker switch, up and to the right of the power switch. It is more of a rocker switch. It does not turn and doesn't toggle in or out when pushed. It does move a small amount in but springs back out the small amount. In the photo it is "out". It is only "in" when it is pushed in and held there. I think it is a circuit breaker of sorts. The button itself is about the size of a pencil eraser.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:07 PM   #25
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Also, I did not say that the blower circulates enough air to activate the sail switch. The blower runs, but it doesn't seem to blow very much. As I already stated, it blows about as hard as if you exhaled after taking a deep breath. Someone already mentioned it should blow enough to hold a piece of paper straight out, which it does not. HOWEVER, taking the sail switch out of the mix and jumping the wires that went to the sail switch (thereby bypassing it) SHOULD have made the furnace start if that was the issue, regardless of if the blower is putting out enough air to close the sail switch OR if the sail switch were bad. We also, as already stated, did a continuity test on the switch with it engaged while it was out of the furnace, and it passed, the circuit completed with the switch engaged. Therefore, our deduction is that while the blower motor may not be putting out enough air, the sail switch should be ok, but there is some other issue here.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:44 PM   #26
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Unless we come up with a solution to the issue, I think that we've decided that we're going to take the furnace unit in to the RV place and have diagnostics done on it. Doesn't mean we have to have anything fixed, but if they can at least tell us what needs to be replaced, it will be a start. We have looked up the prices for the parts we suspect might be an issue on ebay, so we will know if they're way out of line for the price for fixing it. It's $65 for the diagnostic and if we have anything fixed, that charge goes toward the cost, so we'll weigh things out and see what ends up cheapest. I have found the high limit switch, the sail switch, the circuit board and the gas valve. The gas valve is the only one I would probably have them do just because of not being 100% comfortable doing it. The other stuff is a piece of cake. Couple screws, couple wires to hook up.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:15 AM   #27
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another thing you may check is the limit switch. It is a small switch on the side with 2 wires and is on the side of the firebox. If the furnace gets too hot it will trip , after a few uses it sometimes will not reset. try jumping it and see what happens.
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by country boy View Post
another thing you may check is the limit switch. It is a small switch on the side with 2 wires and is on the side of the firebox. If the furnace gets too hot it will trip , after a few uses it sometimes will not reset. try jumping it and see what happens.
By Jumping, do you mean "bypassing" the limit switch by disconnecting the two wires from it and hooking them together to complete the circuit? I've found where the limit switch is and actually had it out to look it over. It's pretty easy to get to with the entire furnace out of the cabinet.
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:46 PM   #29
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by pass it just for a test. Do not operate it for long without the limit switch.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:34 PM   #30
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Ok, I bypassed the limit switch AND the sail switch at the same time by removing the swtiches and using a couple small pieces of stranded electrical wire to jump from one connector to the other on each switch. Nada. Nothing but fan. No clicking. I'm thinking at this point, circuit board??? Wish there were a way to bypass that, but it's what sends the signal to light the flame.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:54 PM   #31
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Here's the update. We took the furnace in to the RV dealer/service place. We talked with the service manager and he had one of his technicians come up to help us. We told him what we had done already (bypassing the sail and limit switches) and that we didn't hear any clicking at all. He said it was likely the circuit board and he tested it for us. He said it was sorta trying but not quite getting there to make the spark. We asked what we owed for them testing the board for us, and they said "no charge" since we'd already done most of the diagnostics! Totally awesome! They wanted $150 for a new (dinosaur brand) circuit board, plus installation fee and we just said that we weren't quite ready to spend that on the camper yet and thanked them profusely for their help. Came home and found the same circuit board for a little under $100 and ordered it. Will post back after the board is here, installed and the unit hooked back up and tested. I hope that this thread will help someone else. Also, as a side note, in talking briefly with the service tech, I asked how much air I should be feeling out of it, and he said it's not a lot that comes out, and that if the motor was running, that there shouldn't be any issues with that.
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:21 PM   #32
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Here is a typical 30A Wiring Configurations that show what run what for your 30A POPUP trailer setup...

The only way to power up the 120VAC receptacle is to use shore power or setup some additional receptacles running from a POWER INVERTER.

Power inverters really eat up your batteries and large things like coffee makers will take seveal batteries to be on line. Its best to use a small genartor to run these high wattage type items...



We camp alot off the power grid places with our OFF-ROAD POPUP camper... Our battery bank has 255AHs capacity which works very well for us running all the things we want to have ON camping off the battery bank...



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Old 09-28-2015, 07:58 PM   #33
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Here's the latest. Amazingly, the circuit board we ordered on Friday arrived today all the way from California (we're in Michigan). It was only first class mail too. I was shocked with hubby brought it up from the mail box. Anyway, we installed the new circuit board per the enclosed instructions. If it's clicking, I certainly can't hear it. How loud should this thing be? We do have it disconnected from the gas. Does it need to be connected to the gas in order for the igniter to try to spark? One thing we did discover tonight, is that whomever had this camper before, apparently must have tried to fool with it, because the positive and ground were backward. We took a photo of the wires spread out in my hand before we disconnected anything. After looking at a wiring diagram online and thinking about things, we went out and checked the two power wires with a meter. After hooking it up with the correct polarity, guess what? A LOT more air blows out of the front of the furnace! The fan had been running, but it was running backward. So that little issue has been corrected. Now we just have to get some heat out of the thing! According to the board's instructions, the LED on the board indicates if there are any issues with the limit and sail switch. They seem to be checking out. I think our next step is to hook it all back up to the gas and cross our fingers and say a little prayer. Are we correct that the spark/gas valves opening is reliant on the gas pressure?
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Old 09-29-2015, 02:21 PM   #34
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Getting really, really frustrated. We just tried to hook up the furnace by putting it back in the hole and hooking up the power and gas line. Hooked up the battery and immediately blew the fuse. Went to buy new fuses. Got home, installed a new fuse and checked everything over for correct wiring and making sure the wires had no insulation scraped off. Blew another one. Took the unit out of the cabinet and hooked it up the way we had it last night when it was working. No problem, it ran. Put it back in the cabinet, hooked up the wiring but didn't hook up the gas line (so it would be the same in the cabinet as it was on the floor). Didn't blow a fuse. Left the power connected to the unit while I started to hook up the gas line. Immediately blew a fuse as soon as the gas line touched the gas valve. So what does that tell us? The gas valve is bad now too? Or did the person who owned the camper before mess around with the wiring to the valve and get those backward? Could someone look at their gas valve and see what wires are hooked up where? Ours has two red wires, which are connected to points labeled 1 and 4 (the two outside posts). There are two yellow wires connected to points labeled 2 and 3 (the two inside posts). The red wires go to the power switch on the front of the furnace, the yellow wires go to the back of the valve unit.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:09 AM   #35
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does this help?
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:20 AM   #36
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Sounds like a wiring issue to me. Ground wire?
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:43 AM   #37
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Just for checking things - I noticed you recently replaced your battery... They are so easy to get hooked up backwards in the RV's... Fan will run backwards - other things will do funny things - sometimes fuses blow etc...

Check the battery case and find the word NEG or the SYMBOL '-'... Make sure this is the lead that goes directly to frame ground near the battery...

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