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Old 09-23-2015, 03:14 PM   #21
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You mentioned a black button on the side you could push in a small amt. Try pushing in and turn counter clockwise. I think it is a fuse and the black button should come out with a fuse attached. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:16 PM   #22
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You say the blower moves enough air to activate the sail switch.


About 20 seconds after that is when the controller starts calling for ignition and then gas.


If the thing is operating that way, is seems to me, the controller board is the problem.


You say there is no clicking of the ignition system. But if your finger is on the gas solenoid, can you feel a single hit after the 20 seconds has elapsed? Check for 12v to the solenoid if you can't feel it open.


(I'm heading off to boondock until Tuesday in about 10 minutes)
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:37 PM   #23
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Please check the 5amp fuse behide the black button as Country Boy suggested. This fuse should be power for the ignitor. If its blown the ingitor will not work nor will the gas valve open. No spark, no gas. Always replace with same size and style fuse. Good luck.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:58 PM   #24
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Here is a photo of the "black button". It is located on the FRONT of the furnace (it's clearly visible when you take the louvered metal cover off the front when it is in the cabinet.) It is kitty-corner from the on-off rocker switch, up and to the right of the power switch. It is more of a rocker switch. It does not turn and doesn't toggle in or out when pushed. It does move a small amount in but springs back out the small amount. In the photo it is "out". It is only "in" when it is pushed in and held there. I think it is a circuit breaker of sorts. The button itself is about the size of a pencil eraser.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:07 PM   #25
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Also, I did not say that the blower circulates enough air to activate the sail switch. The blower runs, but it doesn't seem to blow very much. As I already stated, it blows about as hard as if you exhaled after taking a deep breath. Someone already mentioned it should blow enough to hold a piece of paper straight out, which it does not. HOWEVER, taking the sail switch out of the mix and jumping the wires that went to the sail switch (thereby bypassing it) SHOULD have made the furnace start if that was the issue, regardless of if the blower is putting out enough air to close the sail switch OR if the sail switch were bad. We also, as already stated, did a continuity test on the switch with it engaged while it was out of the furnace, and it passed, the circuit completed with the switch engaged. Therefore, our deduction is that while the blower motor may not be putting out enough air, the sail switch should be ok, but there is some other issue here.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:44 PM   #26
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Unless we come up with a solution to the issue, I think that we've decided that we're going to take the furnace unit in to the RV place and have diagnostics done on it. Doesn't mean we have to have anything fixed, but if they can at least tell us what needs to be replaced, it will be a start. We have looked up the prices for the parts we suspect might be an issue on ebay, so we will know if they're way out of line for the price for fixing it. It's $65 for the diagnostic and if we have anything fixed, that charge goes toward the cost, so we'll weigh things out and see what ends up cheapest. I have found the high limit switch, the sail switch, the circuit board and the gas valve. The gas valve is the only one I would probably have them do just because of not being 100% comfortable doing it. The other stuff is a piece of cake. Couple screws, couple wires to hook up.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:15 AM   #27
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another thing you may check is the limit switch. It is a small switch on the side with 2 wires and is on the side of the firebox. If the furnace gets too hot it will trip , after a few uses it sometimes will not reset. try jumping it and see what happens.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by country boy View Post
another thing you may check is the limit switch. It is a small switch on the side with 2 wires and is on the side of the firebox. If the furnace gets too hot it will trip , after a few uses it sometimes will not reset. try jumping it and see what happens.
By Jumping, do you mean "bypassing" the limit switch by disconnecting the two wires from it and hooking them together to complete the circuit? I've found where the limit switch is and actually had it out to look it over. It's pretty easy to get to with the entire furnace out of the cabinet.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:46 PM   #29
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by pass it just for a test. Do not operate it for long without the limit switch.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:34 PM   #30
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Ok, I bypassed the limit switch AND the sail switch at the same time by removing the swtiches and using a couple small pieces of stranded electrical wire to jump from one connector to the other on each switch. Nada. Nothing but fan. No clicking. I'm thinking at this point, circuit board??? Wish there were a way to bypass that, but it's what sends the signal to light the flame.
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