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Old 09-25-2015, 01:54 PM   #31
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Here's the update. We took the furnace in to the RV dealer/service place. We talked with the service manager and he had one of his technicians come up to help us. We told him what we had done already (bypassing the sail and limit switches) and that we didn't hear any clicking at all. He said it was likely the circuit board and he tested it for us. He said it was sorta trying but not quite getting there to make the spark. We asked what we owed for them testing the board for us, and they said "no charge" since we'd already done most of the diagnostics! Totally awesome! They wanted $150 for a new (dinosaur brand) circuit board, plus installation fee and we just said that we weren't quite ready to spend that on the camper yet and thanked them profusely for their help. Came home and found the same circuit board for a little under $100 and ordered it. Will post back after the board is here, installed and the unit hooked back up and tested. I hope that this thread will help someone else. Also, as a side note, in talking briefly with the service tech, I asked how much air I should be feeling out of it, and he said it's not a lot that comes out, and that if the motor was running, that there shouldn't be any issues with that.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:21 PM   #32
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Here is a typical 30A Wiring Configurations that show what run what for your 30A POPUP trailer setup...

The only way to power up the 120VAC receptacle is to use shore power or setup some additional receptacles running from a POWER INVERTER.

Power inverters really eat up your batteries and large things like coffee makers will take seveal batteries to be on line. Its best to use a small genartor to run these high wattage type items...



We camp alot off the power grid places with our OFF-ROAD POPUP camper... Our battery bank has 255AHs capacity which works very well for us running all the things we want to have ON camping off the battery bank...



Roy Ken
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:58 PM   #33
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Here's the latest. Amazingly, the circuit board we ordered on Friday arrived today all the way from California (we're in Michigan). It was only first class mail too. I was shocked with hubby brought it up from the mail box. Anyway, we installed the new circuit board per the enclosed instructions. If it's clicking, I certainly can't hear it. How loud should this thing be? We do have it disconnected from the gas. Does it need to be connected to the gas in order for the igniter to try to spark? One thing we did discover tonight, is that whomever had this camper before, apparently must have tried to fool with it, because the positive and ground were backward. We took a photo of the wires spread out in my hand before we disconnected anything. After looking at a wiring diagram online and thinking about things, we went out and checked the two power wires with a meter. After hooking it up with the correct polarity, guess what? A LOT more air blows out of the front of the furnace! The fan had been running, but it was running backward. So that little issue has been corrected. Now we just have to get some heat out of the thing! According to the board's instructions, the LED on the board indicates if there are any issues with the limit and sail switch. They seem to be checking out. I think our next step is to hook it all back up to the gas and cross our fingers and say a little prayer. Are we correct that the spark/gas valves opening is reliant on the gas pressure?
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:21 PM   #34
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Getting really, really frustrated. We just tried to hook up the furnace by putting it back in the hole and hooking up the power and gas line. Hooked up the battery and immediately blew the fuse. Went to buy new fuses. Got home, installed a new fuse and checked everything over for correct wiring and making sure the wires had no insulation scraped off. Blew another one. Took the unit out of the cabinet and hooked it up the way we had it last night when it was working. No problem, it ran. Put it back in the cabinet, hooked up the wiring but didn't hook up the gas line (so it would be the same in the cabinet as it was on the floor). Didn't blow a fuse. Left the power connected to the unit while I started to hook up the gas line. Immediately blew a fuse as soon as the gas line touched the gas valve. So what does that tell us? The gas valve is bad now too? Or did the person who owned the camper before mess around with the wiring to the valve and get those backward? Could someone look at their gas valve and see what wires are hooked up where? Ours has two red wires, which are connected to points labeled 1 and 4 (the two outside posts). There are two yellow wires connected to points labeled 2 and 3 (the two inside posts). The red wires go to the power switch on the front of the furnace, the yellow wires go to the back of the valve unit.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:09 AM   #35
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does this help?
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:20 AM   #36
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Sounds like a wiring issue to me. Ground wire?
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:43 AM   #37
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Just for checking things - I noticed you recently replaced your battery... They are so easy to get hooked up backwards in the RV's... Fan will run backwards - other things will do funny things - sometimes fuses blow etc...

Check the battery case and find the word NEG or the SYMBOL '-'... Make sure this is the lead that goes directly to frame ground near the battery...

Roy Ken
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Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS

"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
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