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Old 06-17-2014, 11:34 AM   #1
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Understanding plumbing system

I have not yet used the water system from my 2008 "new to me" 1207, but would like to understand it all prior to actually needing it.

Please let me know if my assumptions are correct. First photo:
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Valve A: from fresh water tank. Valve appears closed.
Valve B: Antifreeze siphon valve? Valve appears closed.
Valve C: Hot water low point drain? Probably open?
Valve D: Cold water low point drain? Open?

Second photo, Hot water heater:
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Valve A: Cold water supply in. Valve closed.
Valve B: Hot water out. Valve open.
Valve C: Hot water heater bypass. Valve closed.

Please let me know if my assumptions for these valves, and their open/closed positions is correct or not. Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:06 PM   #2
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It appears you are correct.
First photo valves C and D are pushed down to close and pulled up to open. They can be hard to operate at times.
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:23 PM   #3
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Thanks Chuck!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:32 PM   #4
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I think your opposite on the hot water heater. I thought cold water flowed in the bottom and hot out top since heat rose. All others are correct in there labeling.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3'senough View Post
I think your opposite on the hot water heater. I thought cold water flowed in the bottom and hot out top since heat rose. All others are correct in there labeling.
You are correct 3'senough

Now I have a problem.....

I filled water tank and all looked good. Cold water at the sink, and at the outdoor shower. Closed hot water bypass valve and opened the other two in anticipation of firing up heater. Had immediate spraying leak (not just a drip) right where the supply line is crimped to the elbow connected to the heater. I do not see an obvious crack.

Could this crimp ring simply be not tight enough? I do not have the tool necessary to tighten it.

I also wonder is it possible that it was OVER tightened, and cracked the elbow inside the pipe? If so, is this elbow readily available for replacement, and if so, where?


Photo - arrow shows point of leak
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:04 PM   #6
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Anyone?
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:53 PM   #7
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Yes, plastic probably cracked. If it was not drained and winterized, you could have had water freeze at that point, or, just bad luck.

Typical plumbing hardware will do.... Lowes, Home Depot , ect..

Several treads on cutting that crimp off and replacing with traditional hose clamp. Too much work to save the crimp.

Below, see general water system diagram as well
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:58 AM   #8
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Lowes or HD for some replacement parts. You will need to pick up a pex repair kit to crimp them correctly. I know there are members on here who have picked them up for under $20.00 so maybe if you ask about the kit in another thread you will get a response on where to pick it. It very well may be HD or Lowes. I would take off the broken part and examine it then take it with you to replicate.

You could try a pair of channel locks to tighten it since the only other option is to replace it anyway.

Another option is to replace with flexible nylon reinforced poly water hose with clamps. That's how I do some of my mods. Rather than deal with the pex.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:03 AM   #9
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Curious if you use a water regulator. Travel trailers cant handle the same pressure as your home plumbing can.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:31 AM   #10
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Thanks all. I think I found the swivel elbow here: http://www.rvplus.com/vanguard-plast...t-p-41198.html

And a buddy says he has the crimp tool for pex, so will get the part, and head over to his house with a cold case of "thank you".

@threebutchers - the camper has never been connected to city water. I filled the tank via the gravity feed. I do, however, have a water pressure regulator should I ever connect to city water.
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